Well I finally completed my search for my antique truck and bought a 1952 F-2. I think I am in love. Anyways, the first thing i would like to do to it is convert it to 12 volts so i can get more reliable starts. My only problem is i have read a lot about it but am still confused. I can switch to a 12 alternator or generator, run a 12 volt battery to the starter, and use a resistor for everything else on the truck. But, what about the negative ground? And will the starter handle the voltage fine? I will need to replace the solenoid though right? I've also read about conversion kits that go inside the distributor, but I have only read about tractors. I do not know where to begin. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I am only 18 and in school so I have a limited income. Could you give me an estimate of the price of this conversion? Thank you very much.

 

soundaudio, over the years there have been many posts about the conversions. if you go to the search function and plug in topic: 6 to 12 volt conversions, you will get many past posts which will answer your questions. dick r.

 

Welcome to FTE and old trucks. They sorta get to you, huh?!

This link will take you to the directions that I followed successfully.

http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/articles.htm

I'd suggest tho, that if cash is short, leave it 6 volts for the time being. It will function just fine unless you're in the extreme north and will be driving it during the winter. Clean all your wire connections and ground points so there is no corrosion or rust and it should get the job done. You can always switch to 12 v later. Keep in touch whatever you decide and we'll walk you thru the details.

 

Well the solenoid appears to be new, and it started tonight but died in like 10 secs. So, for the time being i think i'll try cleaning up all the connections, i already replaced the dead battery and the battery cables and cleaned those connections. I also need to find the short in the wire going to the passenger side headlight. I'll keep in touch with progress and all the questions i am sure to have. Thanks a million.

 

If it started and ran for 10 seconds, I think you should look at the carb/choke. Electrical should be okay. If it cranks fast enough to fire, you're 90% there. I agree with making as much work at 6V as possible and gather information and parts for 12V. Its an all or nothing conversion, but very easy to do. I replaced my generator field coils, regulator, battery, ignition coil, bunches of bulbs, added gauge resistors and ballast resisters for the ignition and heater fan. Everything will stand the 12V except where ballast resistors are needed. Look for earlier posts and you will find some very good and easy to follow parts lists and instructions.
Johann

 

A later generator should bolt in - if not, just steal the field coils out of it (it will still produce about 80% of the 12V rating with the 6V armature) - the field coils should bolt in. A generator will charge a dead battery & an alternator won't (it might, but you'll likely kill the alternator), but an alternator will put out more amps, so if your long-range plans call for power this & that, consider the alternator.

If you go with a generator, you'll need a 12V regulator - get an elecronic one out of an early Falcon or Mustang.

Coils are a subject of much debate, but a 12V coil is cheap enough. Find out if the 12V coil you use requires a ballast resistor - some do, some don't. There is probably a ballast resistor already wired in your truck, but it may not be large enough, so replace it with one designed for 12V.

Your gauges will need a reducer of some kind - either an electronic (which is usually some sort of zener diode) one or a resistor based one. The electronic ones, while more expensive, are more accurate. The resistor based ones really need to be sized to the amp draw of the individual gauge to be 100% accurate (not that we're measuring with a micrometer with our gauges anyway). Most are close enough that it doesn't matter.

Obviously all of your bulbs will need replacing.

Your heater/defroster motor should be replaced, but can be run with a resistor.

The starter should be OK. They are made with permanent magnets & don't care about positive/negative ground. The only concern will be the 12V slamming the bendix into the flywheel a little harder than normal. It should be fine though & I'd run it 'til it breaks. If you're concerned - any good auto electric shop can convert it to a 12V.

Having said all that (and it's a lot!), there's nothing wrong with 6V cars/trucks. As has already been mentioned, however, 6V is much less forgiving of any resistance in the circuit such as poor grounds (most common problem), so clean all grounds and use good, high-quality cables & terminals.

Good Luck!