Does the mobil 1 have zinc?

 

The shop should change it for free, Problem is they my have even put the correct oil in and pushed the wrong key on the computer or vice versa, years ago when those oil change places first started popping up, always right down the road was a engine rebuild shop getting lots of business... 30 psi hot sounds about right.

 

The heaviest grade of Mobile 1 (?15W50) has higher zinc levels for a FT cam. It is advertised on the bottle and confirmed by tests. Lower viscosity Mobile 1 for DD's does not have enough zinc.

 

Take a look at this : Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms

It breaks down the oil grades and viscosity - number in front of the W is cold start viscosity and the number after is hot engine viscosity (forgive me if I'm the only one that didn't know that !) :-)

Based on what I interpret the 20 in your 5w-20 might be too thin. Seems 30 and 40's are the way to go for dent engines. On the cold side (?w-30/40) depends on the part of the country you live in, further north the lower the first number (?) should be although it appears that 0w and 5w have the same viscosity so you can pick whichever is on sale (or your preferred brand). I'm in the same camp as the 10/15W-40 plus zinc guys as the way to go, I run Mobil 1 10W40 full synthetic in my 400 (in Texas).

Regarding the oil filter (I was a Motorcraft oil filter fan until I saw some Youtube videos/articles comparing the different manufacturers and (spoiler alert) - They aren't all the same and it looks like the Napa Gold/Platinum or K&N seem to have the best construction/materials. If you have trouble sleeping it's a good watch. I'll get one of those on my next oil change. (note: One of the K&N oil filters has a 1" hex on the end of it so you can use a wrench for easy off/on, pretty cool idea).

 

I am guessing this is a synthetic? You might maybe get away with it unless the weather gets hot in the next few months...and it is almost June.

All kidding aside - you are talking maybe $30 or so to drain out what is in the motor and replace it with something which will protect it better. Me, I would go out and buy some Rotella T6, take it back to the shop, explain that they have put in 'WAY too light an oil for an older engine, and suggest that if you buy the oil they should be willing to change it for you free. No need to do the filter, and what little remains trapped in the filter won't hurt. (And if they tell you to get lost, I would make damn sure no one I knew would ever use them again.) Think of it as betting $30 against the cost of a blown engine.

 

I changed the oil to rotella and swapped the fram 16 filter out for a Wix 15. It's not worth the risk. I want to enjoy the ride, not worry about my engine. Now I can get back to other little tasks on the list like epoxying my broken shoulder strap seat belt retractor covers and repairing the webbing and retractors. Thanks for all the input.

 

I'm in central Texas. It gets hot here and I do a lot of towing, so I run Havoline 20w50 in my 460. In the summer even 10w40 gets as thin as water here.

 

Maybe the stuff that was put in it by the oil change place. It kind of depends on a few things.

In fact, I read it all. I encourage others to do the same. Maybe you can find this snippet.

"The old rule of thumb that we should have at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm, is recommended for racing engines. But, for street engines, it is acceptable to use that rule only as an “approximate” general guideline, not an “absolute requirement”. It is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain at least the old rule of thumb oil pressure for racing engines, even if that means using a high volume oil pump to achieve that." https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

Some thirst for knowledge to help them make decisions. Some thirst for knowledge for it's own sake. Some go through life no more informed @ the age of sixty, than they were @ 20, yucking it up without a care. I'm not one of the latter. Perhaps you are.

To each his own, I guess.

 

Totally different animals, one being air cooled vs. water cooled, but talking "pressure" just made me think of my old Shovelhead engines and laugh - only because aside from when I first start 'em up, they just don't show any pressure at all and I'm running straight 70wt Lucas oil in them. I can't say it applies to the FE engines but for the Shovelhead it's more about flow than pressure.

Lol, don't know if that added to the conversation or not but it's just another thing to think about.

PS, I'm a Rotella 15/40 guy, have a 55gal drum of it, use it in everything - cars truck tractors generators everything except the motorcycles and my Wifes' SAAB. That one gets the M1 0W/40 Euro crap.

 

Yes....i think 5w-20 is too thin.....the Rotella 15W-40 is the way to go. As others have said.....it has a little more zinc in it which is good for the cam and lifters. When I switched oils....i noticed a quieter valvetrain and a little bump in oil pressure.

 

I just read it all and it totally turned me around from what I thought.

 

My thoughts exactly. Some responses I've read to his blog are that he's touting his achievements or credibility. When I think, if you're presenting some information that contrary is to what people have generally thought, establishing credibility is needed.

If anyone has any reservations from what he's concluded, he is open to questions on his blog.