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It's a Cab/chassis I assume as it has a dump body and I believe all Cab/chassis trucks came with a metal tank not plastic, I know our 2 350 dumps had metal tanks. Swapped them out years ago along with a complete fuel system flush since then neither has lost an injector and they have well over 100,000 miles on since then.
We bought it cab and chassis and had an Ingram stake bed dump body added.
I believe it is a metal tank (visually seemed to be) and the delamination article certainly looked like the same metal flakes that were shown in article but my flakes were rusted. So that could've caused the #1 injector to fail. I think my concerns are 1) how can you successfully do a buzz test on injectors if the injector harness is potentially bad (or not plugged securely into FICM). I may be missing something. 2) Did the harness or plug get messed up during the heads repair job? Bad EGR cooler is unrelated except likely related to radiator starting to leak.
I would say a bad Harness or loose connector would not allow for a proper buzz test I would also think you should get injector circuit low or high codes. On both of our trucks I kept replacing injectors the first 6 years and I also always found a sludge like substance in the HFCM when draining water and the filter would also have it, Finally we dropped the tank and inspected and it looked a lot like yours, I than bought motorcraft reman injectors, removed the HFCM and cleaned and flushed it, reverse flushed the fuel lines and installed a Titan tank put the trucks back together and ever since have not had one injector fail and fuel filters when draining water no longer have that sludge.
So I got a call today from this shop doing the work on this 2005 6.0L ... apparently the mechanic that did the heads repair (who no longer works there!!!), broke a tube? And it was leaking oil. Is this something in the high pressure oil rail? One of you will know what I'm trying to refer to here. It was the reason too low oil pressure was causing the fuel pressure to be too low (if I understand anything about how the injectors in this design are driven).
So I ask from this new information, what could this cause to fail given the above? An injector? Is this related to the EGR cooler leaking at all? See the list of problems in the OP and remember the delamination metal fuel tank problems.
did he say he hooked a gauge up to the pressure port on the fuel bowl and had low pressure? If so than NO low oil pressure has nothing to do with that.
Me too! I think this low fuel pressure caused the #1 injector to fail due to stiction. Though the question for the shop is which side this "oil tube" that was broken is on. Hopefully passenger side (if I have this understood).
The other thing I told the guy is WHAT A MISTAKE it is to do a heads repair on a 6.0 that has 74,000 miles on it and not implore the customer to consider paying for the cost to replace oil cooler while turbo is off and cooler is easy to get to given known avg lifetime of these oil coolers is 50,000 miles! I realize there is more to an oil cooler replacement job, ie; clean manifold out and some other steps but still very prudent. The mechanic who did the heads job did inspect EGR valve and EGR cooler and found no leaks or coolant inside valve but for all I know the EGR cooler was already on it's way OR could the oil cooler replace have saved it from starting to leak 220 miles later which also made the radiator split and leak from over pressure? This is about money but I'm seeing signs of negligence and bad customer service. I run my landscape business based on looking out for the customer's best interests.
EDIT: Not "stiction" per say on injector but not enough fuel in injector due to low fuel pressure resulting in injector piston slamming down to bottom and beating injector up. Injector failure can happen within 200 miles according to Diesel Mechanic Ron on YouTube. If you watch his videos, you wonder how these guys tried 2 new FICM units and a used one pulled out of one of the shop partner's 6.0 just to "make sure"!
If you have low fuel pressure to your injectors than it has nothing to do with the branch tube or low HPO. Now if your HPO is to low ( Below 500psi or so ) you have a no start condition. If your leak is not bad enough to cause a no start than your engine would run fine till you got to the point that the oil pressure is not high enough to allow the injectors to supply the amount of fuel the PCM is calling for thus a lean condition and low power. Your injector pressure is 7.1 to 1 icp , so an ICP of 500 x 7.1 = 3550 PSI and on average you need 3100psi to POP OFF the injector ( Valve opening pressure ) thus supplying fuel. So you see how it would run fine up to the point that it can no longer supply the fuel it needs.
It was never a no start situation just running rough and it turned out to be a myriad of problems. Here's what I just texted a buddy:
So got F350 back. $4000. It turned out to have a host of problems and not just 1 thing making it run rough. Unrelated to running rough but potential to damage engine through loss of coolant: EGR cooler which over pressurized system and split radiator. Running rough : leaking oil tubes (reduction in oil thus fuel pressure ), 4 injectors, EGR valve, new FICM and injector harness, clean out trash from fuel tank replacement of both fuel filters. They made no money on this job and I believe that. No charge on radiator labor, 2 injectors at their cost, FICM and harness parts and labor. No charge on oil tubes parts and labor (still don't know what I'm referring to here as "tubes")
It wasn't the FICM but they left a new one in. Injector harness was suspect but not chaffed. Metal fuel tank had no delamination just trash. Surprised by that. They tested oil cooler. Owner said it's not always o cooler that ruins EGR cooler.
Dude ! if you can wiggle the wiring harness (or any GD wire) and it goes bonkers.
trace that wire & check it for continuity or JUST REPLACE it with Hi-Temp TXL , IN THE EXACT SAME SIZE & LENGTH. you can order the exact plug connectors [prolly a Dorman part] & put in a whole new wire with factory plugs you connect... Any car that is at IDLE...That you wiggle or jiggle all the connectors on.... Make it run funny at all is prolly the problem bro. And the injector wiring>should be inside the engine wiring harness.
Bro you got the engine Harness #1: which as far as i know has every injector wire in it...
The engine compartment Harness #2 [containing {u/h"under hood"}fuse block] & power to all...
Then the body Harness for the {I.P.C instrument panel cluster}, and In/Compartment fuse block, PNP , BP, CP, STEREO, BRAKE LIGHTS, DOME & DASH, ALL SIGNALS....
Everything you can IMAGINE & will have have from the Firewall & back....
Hell that gear selector PNP switch or BP/BrakePedal switch go bad . Your done won't start PNP, OR STARTS & won't move a mm BP switch.
I know been thru most & won't hire a mechanic.
Because I am 1 & run a GD shop from my wheelchair.
Been repairing everything since I was 12 when i got my 1st car........."blablabla"
WTF?!? looks like you got kids & no locking gas cap?
Or they caught you changing the Ait Filter...
I KNOW NOT FUNNY
but i've seen some bad children in my days
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