I was considering purchasing AE, but its about 400 bucks and I can only use it with my laptop. I would assume you can do a LOT more with it, but I'm not exactly sure how much I could understand with the stuff it provides. I know the aeroforce does the buzz and contribution test, as well as reads HPOP pressure (with kit) and ICP and IPR readings. I think that would keep me busy for a while.

I'm still interested in the AE though, but may wait with the price. I also like that the aeroforce can be used as a gauge and diagnostic.

I'll probably have to wait for that though and just stick with my 3 gauges I ordered as well as the superchips for the code reading.

I'm still heavily debating getting a chip now or later though. I'm not sure the health of my injectors which is holding me back on my decision. If they need a rebuild soon, then there is no point for me to get a chip.

Edit: Another question. Does anyone know if the Superchips 1705 can read codes with the engine running? It always says to start with ignition off, then turn the key but don't turn it on. I'm paranoid to try and test for codes with it running.

 

Can't answer the Superchips 1705 questions, but wanted to clarify a few points with the Aeroforce in case it helps.

1) you can get it with green lighting to match the factory gauges, and I don't think it's too bad to read. Not disputing previous post, just don't have any trouble with mine. You can flip the lighting scheme, so green numbers and black background, or green background and black or whatever color numbers, and you can adjust the brightness.

2) It'll read HPOP output pressure and IPR duty cycle with out any extra kit. That stuff is reported through the OBDII port. There are a few things it needs auxiliary sensor kits for, ex. fuel pressure, EGT, coolant temp. And there are some things it reports on, but the OBDII port does not really transmit on the older trucks, ex. coolant temp, injector timing before TDC, so you get some data for those metrics but it can be misleading or worst case it can freeze the gauge until you switch to a different metric. The sensor kits can add up, so you should think about whether you just want a dedicated gauge for that metric. For example you mentioned fuel pressure. You can make the AF read fuel psi, but with the sensor kit you're half way to the cost of a dedicated gauge.

3) Not downplaying the Auto Enginuity package at all, but it's quite a bit different tool. AF does real time monitoring well, but logging not so much. AE I gather is difficult to do real time monitoring with, but much more robust for data logging.

4) You've been around the site long enough, I'm sure you know this already. But just a quick shout out to Jim with Rosewood Diesel shop if you need any injector work. And he has the AF gauges too.

 

Well I see your a Freshman user, so I'm thinking you have young eye's and not that old. Please I mean know disrespect. I'm an older user and got mine from Clay. I hate it. It dose do a lot, so you that want one and don't have a lap top go for it. Mine came with the blue screen, that was the fade back then I guess. Just very hard to read. So if your older, where glasses, I'd recommend some thing else. I do leave mine on HPOP pressure and duty cycle most of the time. Anyway, God bless and to you younger guys I guess maybe not a bad gauge.

 

No offense taken, thanks for offering the perspective.

 

Also there is Torque pro if you have an android device, it uses a blue tooth dongle you plug into your OBD port. If you have a tablet you can get the app and dongle for sub 30 bucks. It works great for monitoring stuff like icp, ipr, and more.

It use to pull codes, but doesn't seem to any more. It also doesn't do cct or buzz tests. Supposedly there are other apps for Android that do, but I haven't tried them.

As for your programmer, I'm guessing the reason it doesn't want you to pull codes while running is because it may make the engine stall. Torque does the same thing when you go to scan while running.

 

I had trouble with my scangauge and it was giving me a lot of trouble after my truck catch on fire. I called and they said send it in and they fixed it for like $40. It wasn't right, the numbers would flash so I called them back and they fixed it the second time for free. My numbers are a lot easier to read now with my 'old' eyes. Its worth a call.


Edit: I reset codes all the time while driving with the scangauge.

 

I never saw those "old eyes" take a cat nap on riding mower during the ox build! LMAO!!

 

I was about ready to kick that guy off that lawn mower so I could take a nap, LOL! I was froze to the bone with the rain and cool weather that was keeping me awake!!

 

I hanent a clue what either of you two are talking about.

 

 

Haha so someone was napping while mowing a lawn? Lawns don't grow too big on this side of AZ and our tortoises keep out grass short enough!

I'll have to talk to talk with Jim as well. I've been meaning on calling him, but I can't really decide if I'm going to get any work done until I sell my AFR heads from my 302. I'm hoping I can cover the cost of injector work with that, maybe have a little extra if the injectors don't need too much work. Maybe then I could get the AF gauge as well.

Ahh then I'm going to need a chip... this is getting expensive! I know nossliw is selling his DP f5 chip and I'm really thinking of buying it now, but I have to see if I'm going to get my injectors worked on or not.

And I kinda want to do a buzz test/contribution test before deciding if my injectors need work. This means I'll need the AF gauge!

This is getting all too mixed up! It's like I'm dealing with a real life differential equation here with NO known solution! (Or maybe I'm just being highly indecisive.. MAYBE.)

 

No they're talking about me cat napping when we did Glenn's Build last fall.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1391538

If you want some light reading about the epic build, here's a link to the thread. Watch out for the piles of BS, some of them are rather large. Lol. Jk.

Back to your deal, imo, a cct and buzz tests aren't necessarily a pointer to be used for bad injectors. Do you know any history on them? Miles? How does is run? Does it seem to have decent power?

Yes it can all seen daunting, it's a lot of information to take in. These guys all have you on track though. And yes modding one of these can get expensive fast.

It all depends on your goals. You could always just run a chip for a while then when you get tired of that, start making preparations to mod. Keep in mind too, injectors are only 1 part of the equation, bigger sticks will need more air and oil (turbo and high pressure oil pump) then if you get really crazy head studs and valve Springs. It's defiantly a slippery slope.

 

Don't forget Thomas that you can support stage 1's with stock air and oil. Lots of guys do it until their budget catches up to the rest of the mods. I'm still pushing stock air on my stage 2's. Not optimal, but it works. If everything is operating as it should, you'll not have a problem. SD 17's can be had fairly cheap and will easily support 1's as well. If it were me and my injectors are functioning as they should, I'd be looking at chip and e fuel first. No power gains from e fuel, but it's a great stepping stone mod and I absolutely hate that darn fuel bowl

 

Looks like it would be hard to get that mower out of there!

I'm not really too sure of the history of the injectors. The motor has 187k on it and I know the previous owner said he had the injectors tested. He said two came up a little weaker than the others, but still within specs. I don't know what tests were done, and don't believe he had them pulled for it.

I also know one of the solenoids has been replaced since it's a different color and says re-manufactured on it.

Besides that, my truck seems to run great. I have no reference on what it should be running like though so I'm just trying to be cautious I suppose.


Going the chip route may be better first though because I may have to spend some money on my alternator setup. Apparently it isn't normal for my battery light to stay on when the glow plugs are active. This may be what killed me other two IDMs.... The alternator was replaced with a used working one from my Bronco and it's 130 amps so I think it's good.