If there's a blockage in the block that would explain why it's seemingly over heating for no reason. The gurgling is probably the coolant boiling? Or at least that's my guess..

 

This guy kinda sounds like the issue im having, but without the new heater core hiccup without heat. Could it be that with the thermostat out like I have it now could affect the flow thru the heater core?


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ing-issue.html

 

I would suggest you investigate a plugged radiator further.

You had trash in the degas bottle so there is no doubt you had/ have trash in the radiator.

I had a running hot issue ( only when towing) that I chased for several months.

Filling and dumping the radiator etc everything seamed fine. Eventually I pulled the radiator payed it flat on my driveway and filled it with hot water from a garden hose attached to the bottom of my water heater and took readings off the radiator core with a IR temp gun. Over 1/2 my radiator was cold. I didn't really need the temp gun, I could feel the difference with my hand.


The pressure buildup in the system does have me a little concerned, but hopefully it's just steam.

 

About two months ago my OEM thermostat froze and my truck overheated while pulling about 6k at 2 in the morning. Luckily I was close to a 24-hr Walmart. I also carry just about any tool I would need for minor and some major repairs.

I removed the thermostat and re-assembled, topped it off with distilled water and continued on my way for about 5 miles driving relatively slow until I thought about what I had read about running w/o a thermostat. I then stopped, drilled a bunch of holes in the stuck thermostat outer ring along with bending the ears on the opening portion, reassembled and drove home with no problems. This was during our last trips below freezing here. I never lost heat. So, I would assume it was still flowing through the heater core w/o the thermostat.

 

Ok, not much of an update, but just wanting to document everything like in a diary. After reading a few responses and reading other threads today I realized the error of my ways and become informed on the t-stat and having it out was not a wise move. I could have caused harm by not properly circulating the water thru the block. Good thing i brought it with me to work. I changed in parking lot in the rain before leaving and reinstalled. I refilled with fluids (mostly water by now) and drove about 7-8 miles down the road and pulled over to inspect fluid level after t-stat opened. Level had dropped only slightly, i went to open cap and pressure released fluid expanded to top of bottle, close cap, drive on home. Crossing fingers that i havent done any damage by pulling the t-stat.

My normally 45 min to 1 hr commute took me over 2 hrs today because of wreck on interstate. Sat for an hour just crawling along, but it was raining and outside temps cool. I made it home and once again it did not puke out of cap. While still running i was able to hold my hand on the top radiator hose no problem. It was warm but not really hot. I killed the engine and walked back to front and could ever so faintly hear the top radiator hose gurgling/percolating. Now the hose got hot and i could barely keep my hand on it. I could not feel any residual/latent heat from the engine at all. Again i had the heater on while driving home and no heat at all. Was not able to perform my test mentioned about heater hose because of raining when got home. Today for the first time in over a week i had no real issues/signs of overheating. Go figure.

But i did order a Ford radiator to be picked up tomorrow for a swap out. I dont want to say that money is not an object, because it is, but $300 and just 100 more than oreilly special is not gonna make me lose any sleep. Again, thanks everyone for the comments...

 

are you changing the heater core also? seems you have alot of trash in your cooling system if it and the radiator are clogged.

 

Ok, think I may have found my answer, though not the answer I was looking for. Drove to work this morning with thermostat reinstalled, drove in stock tune and no hard driving, everything behaved as it should and if not for recent history would not know anything was wrong. Park at work, while still idling I can hold my hand on top radiator hose for 30 secs or longer without burning. I kill engine and return to hear gurgling/percolating in top hose and cant hold hand on it for more than 2-3 secs without being burned. Level had risen to top of bottle but had not puked out of the cap. I noticed something floating on top of coolant but did not open til it had chance to cool down. It is now lunchtime and I walk out to see the following......

























This could have been my initial cause or something that I caused by running without thermostat, but im pretty sure that my issue now is injector cups. Maybe it was an intermittent issue that was only apparent every now and then. Maybe it was head gasket that was only intermittent every now and then and now Ive caused this injector cup by overheating it? I dunno. But im pretty sure that's diesel floating around in the bottle and I can detect the smell of diesel fuel from the bottle now. Soooo...guess what its in my future.....


My next question is if I have to do injector cups would be wise to also do head gaskets at same time? One, to replace the gasket with 350k miles on it. Two, to at least inspect tops of piston to see if any further damage. Ive already decided that if im pulling injectors they will be replaced along with glow plugs, hpop, etc etc as that is all original factory OEM parts all these miles later. If Im getting wet, may as well go swimming is how I see it......

 

Well, I want to verify that it is the core and not a pluggage somewhere else in system with rust/sediment/trash/debris..... But yea, now that it appears my bank account will be taking a hard hit, whats a few more $ for a heater core to make sure its all good.....

 

Bummer! Sorry man. I hope it isn't too difficult to her her taken care of. I just did injectors which was easy as pie! I've heard the cups aren't so much...

 

Doing injector cups is one thing that you probably have to do at this time, it is not too bad and will tie your truck up for two days, unless you have very clean oil and a simple oil cooler o-ring job fixes that. The oil cooler is another possibility. But, you said you smell diesel.

Pulling heads to replace a head gasket is quite the undertaking IMO. Could you do a compression test and a leak down test first. Also, you will have to remove the VC's any way, so, you could simply pressure test the cups as soon as you have the injectors out to see if you have one or more leaking.

Additionally, from what I have "read", it takes a while to damage the engine by running it w/o the thermostat.

 

man that sucks.....i know lots of guys do the cups with the heads on the engine. With that amount of miles I wonder if its prudent to go ahead and have a machine shop go thru the heads?

 

With the heads on the engine-Riffraff has a great tool.

The compression and leak down test as well as oil usage will help determine whether the heads are viable or need to be rebuilt.

 

im debating that very thing in my mind now....

 

Please fill me in with more detail of what you are referring to. Compression and leak down of what? Cylinders? How is this done? Special tool? Im sure someone has done before and posted pics and instructions tips. Ill have to search once I get home.

 

Yes, it is a test of the cylinders, rings, physical seal of the actual valve to the head. One, compression, does compression over several strokes while the other monitors the length of time it is maintained in a static engine. The glow plug(s) will have to be removed. It is not the end all, be all test: however, if there is not a problem, it will let you know, which is what you will hope for....which will save you time and money. Obviously, if there is a problem, you will also know, but it leaves you guessing to an extent.

To test your cups, you can use your old radiator cap and put a schrader valve in it by drilling a hole and a bit of drimeling. Discount Tire has a great steel one for $1 that unscrews and seals. Then pump the degas bottle up to about 12-14 psi and see it the cups allow coolant into the injector hole.

Rich "Tugly" has found an inexpensive setup at HF for the leak down test for the heads. He should be along soon.