Codes 401 &171
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Just wanted to say thanks. By using this thread and the below link I was able to repair my problem of low EGR flow. In my case the restrictor in the tube supplying exhaust gas back to the EGR valve or one of the DPFE sensing lines on the tube was partially restricted I believe. I removed the tube and blew it and sensing lines out with compressed air. So far the the check engine light has stayed out and I have now driven about 300 miles. http://www.nedgillam.snapontools.com/TechTips.asp?tip=8
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
I'm real familar with the HO2S codes,the local dealer sold me a new O2 for my truck,a '97 4.0, and it constantly shows "slow response". They say the sensor is fine,it's my truck. I have moved the sensor from side to side several times and the trouble code follows the sensor. Does the Emissions Warranty cover the HO2S's and for how long. This started at about 90 thou. Truck is perfoming fine and getting excellent mileage.
I'll try another dealer and another sensor when I have an extra $85 to spend. You can bet where I'm NOT going to trade this truck in when I do!
I'll try another dealer and another sensor when I have an extra $85 to spend. You can bet where I'm NOT going to trade this truck in when I do!
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: boston
I have the Code P1053 error as well!
I need help diagnosing a code:
Code P1053 (Bank 2 Sensor 1) O2 Sensor Ckt Slow Response
as well. On my 1997 RangerXLT 4.0L 68Kmiles.
Check engine light comes on intermittantly,
goes out after a while after day of driving or so.
If I erase the code the check engine light stays out a
few days but comes back on.
How do I know if the sensor is bad or not, any tests?
THe sensor has no leaks or any in its visinity.
The MAF looks good visually, no leaks, all connectors good.
Is 68K miles early for an O2 sensor to bite it, shouldn't they last 100K?
If bad what does this part run cost wise? Best to get from Dealer or parts store?
thanks in advance
vee4power
--
my other truck is a motorcycle.
Code P1053 (Bank 2 Sensor 1) O2 Sensor Ckt Slow Response
as well. On my 1997 RangerXLT 4.0L 68Kmiles.
Check engine light comes on intermittantly,
goes out after a while after day of driving or so.
If I erase the code the check engine light stays out a
few days but comes back on.
How do I know if the sensor is bad or not, any tests?
THe sensor has no leaks or any in its visinity.
The MAF looks good visually, no leaks, all connectors good.
Is 68K miles early for an O2 sensor to bite it, shouldn't they last 100K?
If bad what does this part run cost wise? Best to get from Dealer or parts store?
thanks in advance
vee4power
--
my other truck is a motorcycle.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
Swap sides with the HO2S's in your exhaust manifolds and see if the code follows to the driver's side. I have had no luck with after-market HO2S's, but had NO trouble returning them to Advance or Autozone(tried both)$50 os so from them. An OEM from Ford was about $85,my price. However,My "slow response" trouble code returns occasionally with the OEM sensor too. 
Dealer says it's the truck,BUT the code follows the sensor whereever I move it to. EVEN another truck!!! !
My truck,a 4.0 5 spd manual is performing great with super gas mileage,18c/26h,so I am in no hurry to take it to a neighboring town to another dealer for their opinion. Anyway,swap sides and see what happens. If the code stays on the right side,you have an engine problem,if it swaps sides,I'd bet the sensor. Post your results,if you would,I'm sure interested in what you find out! Good luck!
Dealer says it's the truck,BUT the code follows the sensor whereever I move it to. EVEN another truck!!! !My truck,a 4.0 5 spd manual is performing great with super gas mileage,18c/26h,so I am in no hurry to take it to a neighboring town to another dealer for their opinion. Anyway,swap sides and see what happens. If the code stays on the right side,you have an engine problem,if it swaps sides,I'd bet the sensor. Post your results,if you would,I'm sure interested in what you find out! Good luck!
Last edited by slooptom; Dec 21, 2003 at 12:18 PM.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: boston
P0153
I've been working with the O2 sensor on the pipe under the drivers side but I have not located its opposite on the vehicle
with my quick search with a flash light last night. Could tell me exactly where the other sensor is located? I'd be appreciative.
Also I believe I read somewhere that I should I remove the sensor(s) when the vehicle is warm so things are expanded and not binding through metal compression, if you are planning on reusing a sensor (as in this switching sides testing) is this your findings? I believe I also recall reading that I should use some thread anti-seize compound, is this true? Is the sensor removal tool I recall seeing necessary or will regular tools do the trick?
Thanks for your tips.
Richard
with my quick search with a flash light last night. Could tell me exactly where the other sensor is located? I'd be appreciative.
Also I believe I read somewhere that I should I remove the sensor(s) when the vehicle is warm so things are expanded and not binding through metal compression, if you are planning on reusing a sensor (as in this switching sides testing) is this your findings? I believe I also recall reading that I should use some thread anti-seize compound, is this true? Is the sensor removal tool I recall seeing necessary or will regular tools do the trick?
Thanks for your tips.
Richard
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
The Bank 2 sensor 1 is about the same distance down the pipe from the exhaust as the Bank 1 is. The one on the passenger side is a bit more difficult to get to,but not much. You should warm the truck up then let it cool to the point that it won't burn you. I just used a 7/8 wrench. As far as anti-seize,a dab on the threads,not where it will get on the tip,will help keep the threads in good shape,both on the HO2s and the pipe. HTH, Tom
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: boston
Thanks for the great help. I located the 2nd sensor as you directed.
But now, how in hell do I get the connector seperated and sensor disconnected. I can't even get a single hand near it in its tight confines. Do I have to remove the transmission dip stick tube to get at it? Even if I did, I don't think I could ever get a second hand in there to depress the locking tab at the same time and pull it appart. Should the connector be cut from the harness tape, would this give it more slack? If so how do you get at it at all? Do mechanics snip the wires off at the sensor and splice in a new connector? I'm at a loss.
I can barely get both hands on the conector on the drivers side at same time, depress the lock tab, attempting to pull that one appart either. The transmission linkage, transmission, frame, etc. are killing me.
Any tips, tricks, ideas? Do I need to find someone to lend a size Xsmall
pair of hands instead of my XLg mits?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
But now, how in hell do I get the connector seperated and sensor disconnected. I can't even get a single hand near it in its tight confines. Do I have to remove the transmission dip stick tube to get at it? Even if I did, I don't think I could ever get a second hand in there to depress the locking tab at the same time and pull it appart. Should the connector be cut from the harness tape, would this give it more slack? If so how do you get at it at all? Do mechanics snip the wires off at the sensor and splice in a new connector? I'm at a loss.
I can barely get both hands on the conector on the drivers side at same time, depress the lock tab, attempting to pull that one appart either. The transmission linkage, transmission, frame, etc. are killing me.
Any tips, tricks, ideas? Do I need to find someone to lend a size Xsmall
pair of hands instead of my XLg mits?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
Sounds like you need a ten-year old! LOL! But seriously,with an automatic trans,you may have to drop the crossmember and lower the transmission tailshaft end to better get at the conector. I wouldn't recommend cutting the high-temp wires between the connector and the HO2S. And change in resistance here will NOT be good. Maybe finding someone with smaller hands might not be a bad idea after all.
Again,Good Luck!
Again,Good Luck!