Originally Posted by BLADE35

It's toast
Most common would be blown EGR cooler for you model year
I'd be very leery about running it anymore cause if it hydro locks that very very hard in a piston

Fix the coolant problem before flush or at a minimum verify it's not going into cylinder

Originally Posted by steve99%

Ok, so I went to Advance Auto and got the a Bluetooth Actron code reader/scanner/live data plug in that works with my I-phone. I turned it on and read the code that had initiated my check engine light. It was code P0299 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition. It says it happened at 718 RPM, 29.8HG, 69.4% CALC LOAD, 5.10LB MAF. I cleared it and it has not reappeared. I also added approximately 1/2 gallon of Distilled Water to get the coolant level back up to where it should have been in the reservoir, because I could not find the FORD gold coolant on a Sunday anywhere. I read the live data all the way home on my 2 hr trip pulling my camper and the coolant temp stayed around 207-212 the whole way going up to as much as 217 a few times before it dropped back down. I noticed that the gauge had voltage but I did not see a "FICM voltage". I will work on getting the additive to help with the injectors. I plan to do a complete radiator flush this week. If you all will please continue to help as I want to get this truck back to where it needs to be, complete the EGR delete stuff, and then do a few mods to get more power and better fuel economy.....

Originally Posted by steve99%

BLADE 35, what are you saying is toast and what makes you believe that? Just curious trying to learn........

Originally Posted by Don Naslund

Watch all of the 6.0 videos on youtube. There are a lot of good tips. ARP head studs require 210 lbs of torque. You will need a heavy duty torque wrench and an offset head bolt tool to get to the back head bolts. It helps to remove the left motor mount and drop the engine to the frame to gain better access to the head bolts.