Failed pcv attempt.
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Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Eastern NC
Failed pcv attempt.
Thought this would pull air from the oil fill tube, through the engine, and out of the valve cover. Doesn't seem to be creating any vacuum at the oil fill neck. I blocked off the draft tube temporarily since I haven't removed it yet, but didn't make a difference in vacuum(just using my hand). Haven't done any compression checks but I'm sure the engine isn't in great health, but it isn't especially smoky under the hood with the draft tube setup either.
I'm using a pcv valve from a dodge stealth (3.0/turbo). Figured it would be big enough. The valve covers might not be creating a good seal. I tightened them a bit with no difference.
Any idea why? Should I plumb vacuum to the valley pan instead?
I'm using a pcv valve from a dodge stealth (3.0/turbo). Figured it would be big enough. The valve covers might not be creating a good seal. I tightened them a bit with no difference.
Any idea why? Should I plumb vacuum to the valley pan instead?
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 555
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From: Marysville, WA
I would think your biggest "air leak" is going to be the oil filler tube I can see on the other side of your engine there. Nice setup though, I want to do something similar. Although I might suck from the oil filler tube instead of adding holes.
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From: Eastern NC
I figured I'd have a higher risk of sucking oil plumbing it to the draft tube location. I had planned on making a baffle if the valve cover worked.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
I'm interested in this solution also. I have a buddy with a "Y" block in his 55 T-bird that wants to get rid of the road draft tube.
My idea was to pull the road draft tube and replace it with a grommet and PCV valve plumbed to the carb. Now I'm not so sure if that will work. I hadn't thought about the vented oil fill cap.
Bobby
My idea was to pull the road draft tube and replace it with a grommet and PCV valve plumbed to the carb. Now I'm not so sure if that will work. I hadn't thought about the vented oil fill cap.
Bobby
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
On the Y-block, you may need to let air in BOTH valve covers, and take it out the draft tube opening. I doubt you could feel the vacuum by putting your hand over the filler cap, the PCV valve meters a controlled amount of air.
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From: Sweden (Fagersta)
The older Y blocks has the oil filler cap as the inlet port and the road draft tube as the outlet (sucking) port.
But there are actually later models y block with a stock outletport in the rear of the valley panreally close to the vacume port on the carb plate. Barley noticeable.
Inlet is still the oil filler cap.
However I find the road draft tube outlet position (theoretically) more efficient as the inlet is in the front top and the air is sucked thru the entire motor (thru lifter gallery and down in the rear and than thru the entire crank case and out in the front.
Thats not the case with the valley cover position. Then you only vent the top half of the engine...
Just my ten cent
But there are actually later models y block with a stock outletport in the rear of the valley panreally close to the vacume port on the carb plate. Barley noticeable.
Inlet is still the oil filler cap.
However I find the road draft tube outlet position (theoretically) more efficient as the inlet is in the front top and the air is sucked thru the entire motor (thru lifter gallery and down in the rear and than thru the entire crank case and out in the front.
Thats not the case with the valley cover position. Then you only vent the top half of the engine...
Just my ten cent
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From: Simi Valley, CA
PCV introduced in 1961, was mandatory in all I-6 & V8 sold new in CA vehicles, other states may have mandated it as well.
292 Y block - Lower pic / 6A665 adapter took the place of the road draft tube, 6A666 is the smog valve.
292 Y block - Lower pic / 6A665 adapter took the place of the road draft tube, 6A666 is the smog valve.
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