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My transmission has started not shifting automatically. I have to shift it manually now.I pulled the codes and they are:621,622, 624, 626, 629, 636, 637. I was told by my transmission man that the truck has a bad ECU, so I put a new one in and that didn't solve the problem. Then the next diagnosis was the shift solenoid or the wiring harness.
Any suggestions as to what this might be??? The transmission does not slip or shift hard, it just wont shift by itself. And it seems to be starting out in 3rd and not 1st gear also. If I shift from "2" to "D" it shif
I'd be making your trans guy pay you for the computer you put in. All those codes say the computer has lost connection to the transmission, or there is a complete solenoid pack failure.
First step will be to crawl underneath on the passenger side of the transmission, unbolt the heat shield on the side of the transmission and inspect the large wiring harness plug going into the transmission. It's very common for the plug to come unseated, or the wiring to fray and degrade where it goes into the plug.
Ok, so I finally got a chance to work on the F250. I replaced the shift solenoid with a new one and it worked great, (drove it for about 10 miles). I test drove it and when Id come to a stop, the trans wouldn't down shift right away, it took a sec or two for it to engage a lower gear after I stepped on the gas, but it shifted fine, very smooth, all seemd well. I got home, checked the fluid level, added a 1/2 quart of Mercron V to top it off. I then parked it and left it for about 2 hours, came back out and got in it and when I would shift it into reverse or forward, it doesn't move unless I race the motor and then it barely moves very slowly. So, I pulled the codes and got a 111 and that was all. What the heck happened?????? It worked so smoothly when I drove it and then nothing. Help!!!
Verify the fluid level. If it checks out, I suspect you may have improperly torqued the solenoid pack. Perhaps its too loose or you forgot to tighten a bolt?
Verify the fluid level. If it checks out, I suspect you may have improperly torqued the solenoid pack. Perhaps its too loose or you forgot to tighten a bolt?
Ok, thanks for the reply Leadhead, you got me to thinking about the solenoid and I know that I torqued them to about 12 ft lbs
Verify the fluid level. If it checks out, I suspect you may have improperly torqued the solenoid pack. Perhaps its too loose or you forgot to tighten a bolt?
Ok, thanks for the reply Leadhead, you got me to thinking about the solenoid and I know that I torqued them to about 12 ft lbs as best I could read on my torque wrench. So, I went back and looked at the old solenoid and much to my dismay, there was a very thin gasket on the upper side of the pack. The new solenoid did not have a new gasket with it(in the box), so I assumed it didnt need one and installed it as it came out the box. So looks like I need to go to Ford or NAPA and get a new gasket for it and reinstall the pack with the new gasket. I hope this didn't do any additional damage to the trans. I didn't drive it anywhere or move it, since it seemed to be in total failure mode (to move that is).
Thanks
Update: I took a closer look at the old solenoid and it has part of the gasket missing, so Im thinking that when I installed the new pack, that part of the old gasket was still on the transmission and part of it came off (Broke off) with the old solenoid pack. All of diagrams Ive looked at do not show a gasket for the solenoid pack?? where is the gasket???
thanks
It's one whole gasket that covers the entire separator plate. You should be able to get it at a dealer, or through a transmission repair shop.
You'll have to remove the entire valve body assembly to change it. It's not a big deal, but you will have to keep everything very clean, and make sure you don't lose the check *****. If you do misplace a check ball, there are many guides on line stating where they go.
It's one whole gasket that covers the entire separator plate. You should be able to get it at a dealer, or through a transmission repair shop.
You'll have to remove the entire valve body assembly to change it. It's not a big deal, but you will have to keep everything very clean, and make sure you don't lose the check *****. If you do misplace a check ball, there are many guides on line stating where they go.
Ok, you might cringe at this question, but is it possible to get a new gasket and cut out the portion for the solenoid pack and replace just that piece of the gasket? If I take off the separator plate and gasket all those little ***** are going to be rolling around on the driveway and Ill be worse off than I am now. Any suggestions????
Thanks for the help, I owe you a 6 pack of your favorite.
Ron
Ok, I believe I counted 10 of those little ***** that are in the control body (9 rubber and 1 steel).
Question: Im looking in my E4OD rebuild book and it shows a thin metal separator plate, then the gasket then the control body. After I remove the seperator body, will the thin metal plate hold the ***** in place while I install a new gasket??
The valvebody holds the separator plate in place. When reinstalling you'll either have to hold the plate up with one hand while you navigate one of the valve bodies into place, or you'll need a helper.
The valvebody holds the separator plate in place. When reinstalling you'll either have to hold the plate up with one hand while you navigate one of the valve bodies into place, or you'll need a helper.
Can I use some white lithium grease to hold the ***** in place while I put the separator plate on?
Thanks Ron
I wouldn't. It's really not that bad, the check ***** should stay in the holes in the separator plate as long as you don't swing the plate around wildly.