No but they are starting to look rough and may need replace. Several of the locking tabs are broken. Should I just make new connectors or is there a conversion kit I can do to so I could use SD gaskets and wiring?

Anyone have opinions on this?

 

The conversion kit is simply buying the SD parts and installing them.

 

Thanks for the try on reps Todd. Not necessary as all I did was link to Jim's info, but thanks anyway!

SD uvch kits are just like mentioned above. Just simply wire the obs wires into the single plug. Quite a few of us have done that. Stick with ford parts if you want to be sure of no problems. Dormans seem to be hit and miss.

 

With a lot more miss than hit.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Getting ready to run a buzz test and see what happens.

 

OK - so we are getting some funky results with a bluetooth / CarGaugePro scan tool - not sure its working good. Cylinder #2 makes a ton of noise while the others done hardly make any. We dont get any codes for injector issues unless we disconnect the UVCH so we know they have continuity.

We tested the bluetooth thing on another truck and got all 8 cylinders to buzz correctly but it was quieter than #2 but louder than the others on our dead truck.... More questions then answers.

Anyone in the Southwestern VA area that would let me borrow/rent their AE or Snapon setup?

 

My next trip is to Canada... If I was in the South East, I would totally meet ya.

 

Where at eh?

 

I don't think a buzz test is gonna tell you what you need to know. All a buzz test does is test the coils. If you have bad injector knock, then that is coming from internal parts of the injector while under the pressure of the HPO system. Can't simulate that with a buzz test.

 

A buzz test only test the electronics and poppet valves of a injector. If you have a injector make noise with a buzz test then its trashed.

You need to do a CCT test

 

OK - i am always thankful when people come back and continue the threads even after the get things running again so i will try to keep up with this one. We have done alot more playing and we have identified the no start and what we think is the knocking issue. The no start seems to be something to do with the IPR - we were never building pressure past 220 psi and i think it was stuck in a bypass or something. We disconnected it, tapped on the HPOP in that area, then reconnected and it fired right back up. That let us start attacking the real issue and that was the injectors. A buzz test showed that the injectors themselves had issues. All seemed to check out via self test and they did buzz but most of them buzzed at different levels. Based on sound alone, only 2 passed buzz test and sounded like what we expected. We decided to fire the truck up with the valve covers out and low-and-behold only 3 injectors were firing - (one of which was intermittent)! I could not believe that it could idle (albeit loud and rough) with only 2.5-3 cylinders. We tried checking out the injectors and cannot really see anything wrong and one of the ones firing is really loud when it fires so we went ahead and bought new injectors.... will post again with the results of that swap once we get them.

Thanks for the help as always!