no key to my truck, now i need to replace the cylinder. followed hynes intructions but seems my 95 is a different style. what they are saying doesnt work. I drilled out the little pin on the bottom with a 1/8" bit and then I drilled out the cylinder with a 3/8" bit. I have no actuator that I can tell of or ignition spring for that matter. There is a plastic thing that looks like it would be the steering wheel lock that is. It is a tilt wheel with no air bag. Anyone help out? not sure what I need to do. I've got the new cylinder just need to old one out. Thanks

 

if you have the steering wheel and turn signal assembly out look in the right side the steering column ( inside the tube ) you can see where the cylinder comes inside and runs on a tooth rail. below that there is a horse shoe looking piece that controls the rod to the ignition module under dash ontop of column. there is a little pin about 1/4 inch long and maybe 1/16 in diameter. if you can wiggle that pin out the tooth rail will seperate and you should be able to wiggle everything apart to get the cylinder out. i had just the reverse problem. i had a key and could not start my rig. that little pin fell out and the key just kept turning.

ps..... dont loose that little pin!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hope this helps
shadow

 

from an old post i made:

ignore the first part if you have no key.

will the ignition turn with key in it?

if it does turn key to run, with battery disconnected, and insert 1/8" drill into hole on under side of steering column, pull out lockset, do not move anything, install new lockset.

if it does not move than do this. from ford manual:

-disconnect battery ground cable.

-remove steering wheel.

-using channel lock pliers or vise grips, twist lock cylinder cap until it seperates from the lock cylinder.

-using a 3/8" diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition key slot approx. 44mm (1-3/4") until lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of lock cylinder. remove lock cyl. and drill shavings from the lock cylinder housing.

DO NOT DRILL TO DEEP!

-remove retainer, washer, ignition switch and actuator. thoroughly clean drill shavings and all other foreign materials from casting.

-carefully inspect lock cyl. housing for damage from the above operation. if damage is apparent, housing must be replaced.

install your lock cylinder.

good luck!

 

also, you were not supposed to drill out the pin at the bottom, just use a drill bit to push it in.

 

you push it in if you have the key and are able to move it to the run position. I do not have the key and am not able to move it to the run potition. therefore I am screwed

 

No you are not, just follow this part of quicklooks instructions:


if it does not move than do this. from ford manual:

-disconnect battery ground cable.

-remove steering wheel.

-using channel lock pliers or vise grips, twist lock cylinder cap until it seperates from the lock cylinder.

-using a 3/8" diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition key slot approx. 44mm (1-3/4") until lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of lock cylinder. remove lock cyl. and drill shavings from the lock cylinder housing.

DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP!

-remove retainer, washer, ignition switch and actuator. thoroughly clean drill shavings and all other foreign materials from casting.

-carefully inspect lock cyl. housing for damage from the above operation. if damage is apparent, housing must be replaced.

install your lock cylinder.

good luck!

 

so i have drilled just shy of that 1 and 3/4". Still nothing. Now will it be platenly obvious when it breaks loose. I would think it would but i've never dont this before. I taped off the depth of the drill bit so I will know when i have reached the limit. Thanks for everything

 

If you do not have a key, I used another key I had to my 1991 Ford F150
Turn key toward front of vehicle to remove cylinder

 

It may be too late, but you ARE supposed to drill out the little pin on the underside of the column if you do not have the key. It is a very soft aluminum pin that sticks out of the lock cylinder to hold it in. If you had the key, then you could depress this pin when in the 'on' position. Since you do not have the key, the Ford service manual says to drill out this pin. You only need to drill in about 1/4" to be able to remove the lock cylinder.

It may help to have a new lock cylinder, which you are going to need anyway, to look at so you can see what it is that you are trying to drill out.

 

You guys realize that this thread is 7 years old right.

 

I have a collection of Ford keys , and that's the first thing I try . Been lucky a few times.
I have one truck that the switch turns without the key, don't know whats up with that.

 

I've read a bunch of the ignition replacement posts and I still have a couple of questions.

95 F150, 4.9L, manual, no tilt. The key hasn't been working right for a while but before I could get around to it (I know, I know) it finally gave up completely. The slot in the cylinder is now at a 45 from the slot in the chrome outer piece, and I can't get a key in. Unfortunately it is in the off position and the steering wheel locked. The switch still thinks it's on, though, so my buzzer is going on and on and on ...

My questions are:

1. If I pop off the chrome bezel piece, will I be able to then get a key in and turn it to ON so I can pop the pin out without drilling it?

2. Why does Chilton's say to remove the wheel, when on here I'm reading that it's not necessary? I'm kind of leery of screwing up my airbag (this is the first vehicle I've owned that even had one)

 

Have you tried inserting a punch up in the hole and see if you can remove the lock cylinder? If they key part is turned such that it is in the "on" position, then it doesn't matter where the chrome outer piece is. The lock cylinder is in the "on" position and you should be able to depress the pin.

 

I pulled off that lower cover, and tried to press on the pin, but it wouldn't budge. The lock cylinder is mostly in the "OFF" position - it's just barely on enough to get the buzzer to sound.

The key is off and the wheel is locked.

 

"2. Why does Chilton's say to remove the wheel, when on here I'm reading that it's not necessary? I'm kind of leery of screwing up my airbag (this is the first vehicle I've owned that even had one)" ...
on older models (my 89 for example) the pin is located under the horn pad ... i am pretty sure that your pin is on the underside of the column as stated.

wondering why do you not want to drill the pin out ... your ignition lock and/or the actuator are probably toast anyway.