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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine. Can anyone direct me with what part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
If you need just the little white switch above the pedal I might have a spare one that is brand new from when I replaced the original, then later replaced the entire pedal assembly. Maybe we could work something out if you are interested and I still have it.
Have you tried getting up there and using some electrical contact cleaner, or lubricant on the plunger for the switch? It is a small plastic switch that turns the light on when the plunger extends. Be sure the wire is secured to the switch as well.
Amazon is where I bought mine from, then later the entire assembly because the return spring was broken.
Is your truck a hand shaker or auto? Trying to figure out why your remote start is tied to your parking brake. My remote start is not tied to my parking brake at all, but then again I have an auto.
There is a contact plate on top of the plunger. This plate is shaped like a small washer, with the plunger head captured in the inside diameter, and with the broad flat of the washer being the ground contact surface. The contact washer is wobbly. I found a tiny rubber foot lying on the workbench, so I shoved it over the tip of the plunger pin, so that the rubber would stabilize the wobbliness of the contact plate washer.
Very hard to explain, and I deleted the pics in the write up I made of the process, but after stabilizing the contact washer, the parking brake engagement light worked much more reliably ever since. I needed it to work in order for the APCM to work.
Picture of random rubber tip I had on hand, as mounted on top of parking brake switch under the dash.
Is your truck a hand shaker or auto? Trying to figure out why your remote start is tied to your parking brake. My remote start is not tied to my parking brake at all, but then again I have an auto.
Mine is an auto and it is connected to the parking brake for the turbo timer on the remote start i think it is 1 or 2 minutes until it shuts off.
In order to keep it on when the key is removed, the remote start requires the parking brake to be activated in order for the turbo timer/cool down timer to work.
In order to keep it on when the key is removed, the remote start requires the parking brake to be activated in order for the turbo timer/cool down timer to work.
If you need just the little white switch above the pedal I might have a spare one that is brand new from when I replaced the original, then later replaced the entire pedal assembly.
About a year later I need to perform a similar mod as Y2KW57 has done. The entire parking brake assembly and switch are brand new. The switch itself is a well designed POS and needs a bit of improving even when new.
The Y2KW57 method is on my list of things to get done over the next few weeks while the truck has a space in the garage.
About a year later I need to perform a similar mod as Y2KW57 has done. The entire parking brake assembly and switch are brand new. The switch itself is a well designed POS and needs a bit of improving even when new.
The Y2KW57 method is on my list of things to get done over the next few weeks while the truck has a space in the garage.
Finally found a couple of my old pics to help you out, Sous. I know how you love pics.
Before:
After:
What the rubber "tit" does is simply stabilize the contact washer, so that it both lands on and departs from the two vertically oriented contact bars evenly. Prior to the rubber stabilizer, the contact washer could get cockeyed on the spring loaded shaft, due to the inner diameter of the washer being larger than the diameter of the shaft, which gives the washer room to wobble and shift about.
The pointy part of the rubber piece is unnecessary, and could be cut off. I left mine on as a "handle" to more easily remove the rubber piece in the event that the modification was not successful, however, I have not had any issues with this switch since performing this mod several years ago.
Something else could work just as well. For example, if the swedging at the washer end of the shaft were more pronounced, the washer might be stabilized in that manner. Again, I just looked around on my messy workbench and spied that piece of rubber, noting that it had a very small diameter indent on the broad disc end that would "hug" the swedged end of the shaft tightly, and thus maintain the washer in a horizontal position throughout it's spring loaded jolt of travel.
If you look carefully, you will note that the shaft actually has two different diameters... the main diameter covers the majority of the shaft, and a necked down diameter about which the contact washer is positioned. There is simply too much of an area where the shaft is necked down. While I no longer have access to a physical switch in my hand (I'm not taking mine out again as long as it keeps working), I have given some thought as to what other types of commonly available parts could be used to reduce the axial play. One such thought that occurred to me is using a tiny diameter "E" clip between the washer and the swedged end of the shaft. I haven't tried it, but it would be one of the things I would try if I hadn't stumbled across the rubber thing that I used.
