Trying to figure out start issues
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Trying to figure out start issues
79 F150 Custom w/ 300 and 4 speed. Truck is nice and straight with only one small spot above the rear left tire in terms of BODY rust. the rest is just surface. Its not pretty right now. but i want to get it running and driving so i can sell the dakota
Short story I acquired the truck for free. It was running within the last couple months. But now It doesnt. I am new here and having trouble sourcing where I should start.
I put in the battery out of (Daily Driver) Dakota just for a start to see what I could get out of the truck. Put the battery in and turn key. Dash lights up. Turn key I get a quick rrrphg sound from it trying to turnover and Black out. No dash lights no starting. no nothing. I put the truck in neutral grabbed a jumper set. 1 jumper on the the starter side of the solenoid. 1 to the Positive directly. I got spark. No sound from starter.
Its just me for the next few days so running back and forth to work the key switch is annoying. Where can i start?
PS: there was a 2 battery setup in it to run an amplifier. THe positive was coming back to the alternator to a square box that kind of looks like an amplifer? What is this?
Short story I acquired the truck for free. It was running within the last couple months. But now It doesnt. I am new here and having trouble sourcing where I should start.
I put in the battery out of (Daily Driver) Dakota just for a start to see what I could get out of the truck. Put the battery in and turn key. Dash lights up. Turn key I get a quick rrrphg sound from it trying to turnover and Black out. No dash lights no starting. no nothing. I put the truck in neutral grabbed a jumper set. 1 jumper on the the starter side of the solenoid. 1 to the Positive directly. I got spark. No sound from starter.
Its just me for the next few days so running back and forth to work the key switch is annoying. Where can i start?
PS: there was a 2 battery setup in it to run an amplifier. THe positive was coming back to the alternator to a square box that kind of looks like an amplifer? What is this?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Clean the battery terminals and battery grounds. And make sure the ground strap between the engine and cab is installed and tight. Missing that one grounding point results in weird problems.
You have a multimeter, right? If not get one and start measuring voltages at various points with the ignition switch in the run position.... you'll need to study up on the wiring schematics. At a minimum, verify there is voltage at the "I" terminal at the starter solenoid with the ignition on.
You have a multimeter, right? If not get one and start measuring voltages at various points with the ignition switch in the run position.... you'll need to study up on the wiring schematics. At a minimum, verify there is voltage at the "I" terminal at the starter solenoid with the ignition on.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 898
Likes: 3
From: Chillicothe, IA
Yep, sounds like a loose or bad connection. Fords need all the battery juice they can get to start. Make sure the cables are good also. If they have signs of overheating, replace them. And I usually go with the largest cable size I can find at the store I am at. My dump truck has 1 gauge wires, SC has 2 gauge. Also, pick up a remote starter switch. It is one of the best tools you will buy for these old trucks. Just make sure you set it down when you are getting ready to check something. Accidentally energizing the coil while you have your hand on wires can send 50,000 volts through you. And well in my case, hurt for several days.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
If (when) the cables and grounds are corroded badly no battery will be enough. They are almost 40 years old and should be replaced on general principles like you should fuel hose, or brake line, belts, etc. Grind down to bright shiny steel at the block, the frame, the firewall, etc and tighten securely. Coat connection with grease, vaseline, NO-OX, etc, to keep salt and grime away. It pays to do this.
Just a few hundredths of an ohm is enough to cut alternator output by 30%, choke off your starter, dim headlights, fuse solenoid contacts, weak ignition, etc.
Just a few hundredths of an ohm is enough to cut alternator output by 30%, choke off your starter, dim headlights, fuse solenoid contacts, weak ignition, etc.
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Thanks for input guys.
I got it cranking. New 2ga Battery Terminals for ground and to the starter solenoid and she fires right up. Just not starting. So figuring out fuel now. The engine will fire with some starting fluid. But not with gas. Lines are clear and Pumping gas. Just not getting any in the carb
I got it cranking. New 2ga Battery Terminals for ground and to the starter solenoid and she fires right up. Just not starting. So figuring out fuel now. The engine will fire with some starting fluid. But not with gas. Lines are clear and Pumping gas. Just not getting any in the carb
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Original (thru 1980) alternator regulator has points, it's rectangular and located adjacent to the starter solenoid. Its cover could be blue or black.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 898
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From: Chillicothe, IA
There might be a fuel filter screwed into the carb. That is the original set up on 2100 and 2150 2 bb carbs. I usually remove it and replace with a simple barbed fitting and put on a glass filter a few inches out from the carb. Carb might be gummed up from not being used. A good cleaning and rebuild is a great place to start.
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