6.0 troubles...ICP?
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6.0 troubles...ICP?
Hey guys, my 2003 6.0 has started to surge at idle after driving for awhile. Like when I drive to work (30 min) and pull off the interstate the idle will bounce around at the stop sign (only jumping like ~100rpm). Does this sound like the ICP to you? I've replaced it once before and am wondering if it's time to do it again?
Also the truck will sometime be hard to start. And when I say hard to start I mean turn the key, let the GP cycle the turn to start and it just cranks. But as soon as I turn the key back off and cycle the plugs again it'll fire right up. It doesn't seem to matter if it's hot or cold. Any ideas on that? It's been doing it since I got the truck. It seemed to get better after the 1st ICP but didn't completely get fixed.
Also the truck will sometime be hard to start. And when I say hard to start I mean turn the key, let the GP cycle the turn to start and it just cranks. But as soon as I turn the key back off and cycle the plugs again it'll fire right up. It doesn't seem to matter if it's hot or cold. Any ideas on that? It's been doing it since I got the truck. It seemed to get better after the 1st ICP but didn't completely get fixed.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Unplug the ICP and see if the idle smooths out. Won't hurt it, clear the code when your done testing it.
Park nose down and see if that helps. The seal on the HPOP may be going out and allowing the oil to drain out. If it starts after sitting nose down, start saving.
Park nose down and see if that helps. The seal on the HPOP may be going out and allowing the oil to drain out. If it starts after sitting nose down, start saving.
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Unplug the ICP and see if the idle smooths out. Won't hurt it, clear the code when your done testing it.
Park nose down and see if that helps. The seal on the HPOP may be going out and allowing the oil to drain out. If it starts after sitting nose down, start saving.
Park nose down and see if that helps. The seal on the HPOP may be going out and allowing the oil to drain out. If it starts after sitting nose down, start saving.
I'll have to try unplugging the ICP if I can manage to catch it while it's happening.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
As for the ICP just unplug it, won't hurt anything and if the problem does not return you have found the likely culprit.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
Perfectly fine, you won't hurt a thing......the PCM just defaults to a preset value.
ICP on early builds are an adventure to unplug/replace if you have never done one.
A Ford pump being only a year old does not mean you can't have one getting weak or on the way out. It should have 2 yr/24,000 mile warranty on the pump.
Try the ICP trick first before we start looking at your HPOP
ICP on early builds are an adventure to unplug/replace if you have never done one.
A Ford pump being only a year old does not mean you can't have one getting weak or on the way out. It should have 2 yr/24,000 mile warranty on the pump.
Try the ICP trick first before we start looking at your HPOP
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Awesome. I'll unplug it and run it on Monday to see what happens.
And it's got well over 24000 miles on it since install. It did it before and after the new pump was installed. The pump didn't seem to effect it very much.
And it's got well over 24000 miles on it since install. It did it before and after the new pump was installed. The pump didn't seem to effect it very much.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
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From: Virginia Beach VA
As Mike said... 2003/2004 trucks eat HPOPS. Poor design, re-manufactured piles and most times, take several replacements to get a good one. If the first one you put in worked... that would be very lucky indeed!
Keep your fingers crossed.
If the ICP pigtail is oil soaked or the sensor is oil soaked, replace it. You could run unplugged for years... your fuel mileage wouldn't be great with it unplugged, but it won't hurt the truck.
Keep your fingers crossed.
If the ICP pigtail is oil soaked or the sensor is oil soaked, replace it. You could run unplugged for years... your fuel mileage wouldn't be great with it unplugged, but it won't hurt the truck.
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I should clarify, when it does the hard start thing it would crank until the batteries died if I let it. But as soon as I cycle the key again it fires up. If it was the HPOP seal I would think it would fire after building pressure after cranking for 30 seconds or more. I wouldn't think cycling the key would have any effect on the HPOP correct?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Possibly... but think about it. When replacing the HPOP, you had to crank and crank to get pressure up and air out. With the seal allowing oil to drain back, its full of air and could take a small bit of time and then needs to purge that air... runs like crap a short period.
Are you re-cycling the key after 30 seconds of cranking or right away? Guess I'm asking... get in, key on, key off, key on and start? or Key on, crank, key off, crank and run?
Did you try parking nose down hill yet? Are you getting the wait to start light? Any codes on the truck? Any live data reading device like a scan gauge or Torque to see what ICP pressures are?
We are guessing what the issue is without a live reader.
Are you re-cycling the key after 30 seconds of cranking or right away? Guess I'm asking... get in, key on, key off, key on and start? or Key on, crank, key off, crank and run?
Did you try parking nose down hill yet? Are you getting the wait to start light? Any codes on the truck? Any live data reading device like a scan gauge or Torque to see what ICP pressures are?
We are guessing what the issue is without a live reader.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
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From: Virginia Beach VA
I re-read some of the posts from you... your not going to catch the ICP while it's happening... the reader will. The ICP is buried under the turbo, it's unplugged before the issue happens, drive it around a few days and then plug it back in... hopefully fixed.
That live reader would also see IPR% and could determine if it may be the issue. Often with a new HPOP, removing the IPR to clean the screen is needed, debris is often in the system after this depth of work, cleaning the screen might correct your issue. Search IPR removal on You-Tube to see how and buy an IPR socket to get it done.
Buy a live data reader... it's really a great way to see and diagnose your truck, without it, you WILL spend $$$$$ replacing parts as guessing gets real expensive fast!
That live reader would also see IPR% and could determine if it may be the issue. Often with a new HPOP, removing the IPR to clean the screen is needed, debris is often in the system after this depth of work, cleaning the screen might correct your issue. Search IPR removal on You-Tube to see how and buy an IPR socket to get it done.
Buy a live data reader... it's really a great way to see and diagnose your truck, without it, you WILL spend $$$$$ replacing parts as guessing gets real expensive fast!
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Possibly... but think about it. When replacing the HPOP, you had to crank and crank to get pressure up and air out. With the seal allowing oil to drain back, its full of air and could take a small bit of time and then needs to purge that air... runs like crap a short period.
Are you re-cycling the key after 30 seconds of cranking or right away? Guess I'm asking... get in, key on, key off, key on and start? or Key on, crank, key off, crank and run?
Did you try parking nose down hill yet? Are you getting the wait to start light? Any codes on the truck? Any live data reading device like a scan gauge or Torque to see what ICP pressures are?
We are guessing what the issue is without a live reader.
Are you re-cycling the key after 30 seconds of cranking or right away? Guess I'm asking... get in, key on, key off, key on and start? or Key on, crank, key off, crank and run?
Did you try parking nose down hill yet? Are you getting the wait to start light? Any codes on the truck? Any live data reading device like a scan gauge or Torque to see what ICP pressures are?
We are guessing what the issue is without a live reader.
When I say I cycle the key I mean key on, crank, key off, key on and start almost instantly. If I just do key on and crank it will crank without starting now as long as I let it. I tried parking down hill as well and that didn't seam to affect it. I still got the same problem 2 of 5 times trying to start it. I have a WTS light. The truck isn't throwing any codes other than a random injector 1 contribution which I believe to be Stiction.
I have the torque app but I am currently waiting on a new Bluetooth adapter. The one I had quit working.
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
buy a Ford OEM ICP sensor, the parts stores replacements are crap! I have a $60 one at home, lasted 3 weeks.