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Following this on the RV forum also, same issue with my truck. Yes, Trailer brakes adjusted twice no change, and this in on a new trailer.
A good friend of ours that we travel with had poor braking on his new trailer and after a lot of checking because of weak brakes it turns out one axle was never hooked up from the factory. After that was repaired he liked his brakes but still wanted to go to disks until he bought a used 2012 F350 with a integrated brake controller, now he not going to convert.
Allmost all the time it's in the trailer not the truck but it's easier to blame the truck.
Last winter I helped a guy change from drum to disk brakes on his 2014 trailer, he had 7K axles and I couldn't believe how small the brakes were on that heavy of a trailer. He was running his integrated Dodge controller on 10 with the drums and at 6.5 with the disks and his trailer would stop.
Another problem I've had on two tailers was the molded plug on the end of the cord, they are a spring loaded type contact that is small and it goes over a spring contact in the female end on the truck. The easy fix is to disconnect your trailer batteries and cut the cord end off and install a new one that you can pick up at any automotive part store. The new one will have a flat larger flat contract that will wipe itself clean on the spring loaded contacts in the female end every time you plug it in. The wires in the cord are color coded and they match the labels on the new cord end.
measured amps with the break-away switch pulled. 11.4 amps...more investigation coming.
Excellent! With that number you know the wiring to the trailer brakes is intact and all the magnets are on board. If the trailer brakes are adjusted, the trailer should have good brakes.
That leave the connection between truck and trailer and the truck seven pin output to the trailer when the brakes are applied.
measured amps with the break-away switch pulled. 11.4 amps...more investigation coming.
Great start because now you know you have all 4 magnets, next you will have to check the amp draw when connected to the truck. I would also pull a wheel and verify just what size brakes you have, it will be marked on the drum. On my 01 Hitchhiker Premier with 7K axles it had poor braking with standard 12 x 2 brakes so when we ordered our 03 we ordered it with 12.25 x 3.375 Dexter HD brakes and with the same truck and controller the trailer would stop the truck. I ran the HD brakes until last spring when I changed to disk because the drum brakes were past their useful life.
FYI...I left out that originally, I had the Hopkins in bed connector that Ts inline to the 7-way on the bumper. Then I upgraded, once I found out I could, to the Ford in-bed connector which is more robust and plugs into the factory harness on the frame.
I was hoping this would improve braking, but no change.
Pretty sure the brakes are just not strong enough...I like the idea of upgrading them. I do want to check the voltage drop at each wheel next chance I get.
Because Hitchhiker is no longer on production I'm always looking at other brands I see in RV parks just in case something happens to put present trailer that I can't fix, it happened to some friends of ours when a driver ran a stop sign and totalled their trailer. When I find something I think I like I go on their website and look at options and I'm totally amazed at the lack of suspension and brake upgrades offered. The latest one was Artic Fox, looks like a well built trailer with a strong frame and side wall construction but no suspension or brake upgrades
So, pull the break away and try to pull the trailer. Can you do it? 10-12 amps to brakes is a pretty common finding when all brakes are working.
Trying to move the trailer from a stop with the brakes already locked up is a lot different from energizing the brakes when you are doing 60 mph when the friction between the lining and drum has to burn off speed. The more surface area the more braking.
I've got the same type of thing with my 2010 F250.. I pull 3 trailers - a gooseneck horse with a 13k gross, a gooseneck flatbed with 10k gross, and a bumper pull snowmobile with 6k gross. All running electric drums. Horse & Snowmobile both have brand new dexter setups. I can lock all of them up using the slider at slower speeds, but they all feel weak when stopping normally. Especially the horse.. If I really lay on the brakes, I always feel like i'm getting a bit of a push from the trailer, as opposed to the trailer dragging me to a stop. But, I never have a problem actually stopping where I planned on. So I guess it's all doing what it's supposed to, just not what I'm used to.
I think the problem is there is no way to set the controller so the trailer "leads" the truck braking, which you can do with any of the better aftermarket controllers.
I think some of the problem here is comparing the Ford proportional controller that works off the trucks braking system to a controller that has to sense the truck braking system starting the braking. Most of them rely on the brake light to come on to start the braking, that's were the boost comes in and it gives you the feel of the trailer braking but for full braking the truck has to do the braking first for the controller to sense it. On a proportional system the trailer brakes come on at the same rate as the truck brakes so most of the time you don't feel the trailer brakes unless you are under heavy braking.
Years back when I changed from a Prodigy to a BrakeSmart proportional controller it took some getting used to because I could no longer feel that brake light hit the Prodigy would give the brakes but instead I had smooth braking start to finish. To be truthful I liked the BrakeSmart over the Ford controller.
Never checked mine, but I have read on another RV site, that to have even braking we should have at least #12 wire from the pinbox to each wheel, & if possible the same length of wire from the pinbox to each wheel.
John