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Again, you need to give some indication of how much you ultimately want to spend and what your actual Hp goal is, as these are directly related.
First off you need to get some gauges to monitor what is going on with your truck, external or through a tablet with a couple of extra gauges not available on the OBD II port. Also some kind of scanner (AE or torque pro will be fine) should be considered to log and monitor your truck and the changes you are making.
...I would like to spend about $600-$800 a month....
Originally Posted by Magicsports8
...I like buying several things at once....
I hope you mean that budget is an average.
HD4R100 transmission (it should take anything those PMRs can handle) is about $3000 plus install (and a bigger transmission cooler). If you don't pull, you can probably get away with the stock cooler, since heat won't have a chance to build up.
38R turbo, CAC boots, and billet intake plenums (because nothing in there will handle the bigger air needed with bigger fuel) will set you back about $1800 in one Buck$Zooka trigger pull. Doing all of these at the same time saves re-work.
Bigger intake is about $300 for a CAI - or you can go the loud route with a 6637 for a single Benjamin.
Gauges: I have dual EGTs, fuel, and boost (because my boost fooler protects the MAP sensor and this blinds the OBDII gauges). OBDII gauge set - usually an OBDII adapter and your portable device takes care of this for as little as $30. I did mine up the full-meal-deal way for about $400, with tablet dedicated to the truck, mount, a proper OBDII adapter, and several OBDII apps. Figure total cost for proper gauges between $600 and $1000.
Chip - I think the Hydra is running in the mid-$500 range with some nice tunes, but performance injectors will call for a more personal touch on the tunes - possibly live-tuned. Factor a possible add-on of $500 there.
Traction bars to keep all your stuff under the truck where it belongs - $300 if you're a good fabricator, $1000 for a robust kit.
HPOP is a coin toss, brace yourself for a T500 for about $500.
Injectors - here's some pucker factor. IH AC 160s are safe with the PMRs, and the 100% nozzles will utilize all the fuel in them at the higher RPMs. If you send yours in for rebuild, you can save some money. I recommend against getting a stranger's leftovers - no matter who the builder is. I went brand new AC 160/100s - about $2700.
To reach 400 HP with about 800 ft/lbs of torque (torque is the real number you're after - HP is for gassers), budget $10,000.
Before any of that, I would start with the gauges (OBDII set would be number 1), just to find out if your truck is even up for stock power - let alone ready for Powerstroke Mod Syndrome.
Some of this stuff can be pieced in, some of it is one big Buck$Zooka blast. I would have the truck 100% and every supporting mod in place before I even clicked on any injector links. Big fuel is the absolute last mod, lest you start breakin' stuff and add to the overall cost of the upgrade.
Which upgrades should I do together? And what order should I do them?
If you're serious about spending coin, and wanna strike sooner rather than later, call Clay at Riffraff Diesel and discuss your plans with him and he can help you plot your path without trying to upsell you on stuff just because.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
