What he said!
What all should I replace
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2015
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What all should I replace
Well I did something pretty stupid and now I have a big job ahead. I was driving on the freeway and apparently one of my front needle bearings seized. Unbeknownst to me my hubs were locked (not sure when or why that happened but se la vie) anyway long story short my entire front axle appears to be bombed. I ended up noticing something was wrong when the engine had trouble going up a minor hill. Pulled over to look at it and noticed the front diff pinion seals had ruptured and the fluid was dripping out on the ground and catching the grass on fire (guess there was some heat in there).
Anyway now I'm going to do a complete rebuild on the axle. All new hubs, unit bearings, needle bearings, shafts, diff carrier, center bearings, ring, and pinion along with all the appropriate seals and washers. Already planning to do ball joints and brakes while I have it that far apart. My question is what else should I do while I'm in there? What do you guys think?
Anyway now I'm going to do a complete rebuild on the axle. All new hubs, unit bearings, needle bearings, shafts, diff carrier, center bearings, ring, and pinion along with all the appropriate seals and washers. Already planning to do ball joints and brakes while I have it that far apart. My question is what else should I do while I'm in there? What do you guys think?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Agree swap in a used front axle.
$670 shipped to your front door.
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...-8608192-454-2
This one should be a Dana 60... shipped for $500!!!!
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...t-25848-7211-1
Here is one (should be a 60)shipped for $ 475
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...-272484-1908-1
Be advised all are 3:73 gears, don't know your gears so I guessed. If you have 4:10 just mod search.
$670 shipped to your front door.
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...-8608192-454-2
This one should be a Dana 60... shipped for $500!!!!
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...t-25848-7211-1
Here is one (should be a 60)shipped for $ 475
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...-272484-1908-1
Be advised all are 3:73 gears, don't know your gears so I guessed. If you have 4:10 just mod search.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
i have to agree on axle swap, much less cost and you can actually upgrade and get a Dana 60.
if you have done a parts list I would be curious what the cost came to for your planned rebuild.
if you have done a parts list I would be curious what the cost came to for your planned rebuild.
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Senior User
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I considered an axle swap but my fear is that I would just be swapping in someone else's problems. If I do the rebuild I can be fairy certain that I'm in good shape for several years. This is the car we use for long road trips so breakdowns really aren't an option. As for swapping in a Dana 60 I considered it but I understand I would need to have my front driveshaft shortened. Maybe someone can shed some light. If I could get a stronger axle I'd be all for it.
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As a side note I've decided to do V code springs on the front while I have it apart so that may give me the extra clearance needed to not have to mess with the driveshaft swapping in a Dana 60. Hopefully someone who has done a 60 swap can chime in. As for a coil swap I'd love it as I really like the way my '15 F250 rides and tracks but I'm just not up to that big a mod at this time.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
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From: Northern California
having a drive shaft retubed is a simple and inexpensive process. or just get the shaft out of the same vehicle you get the D60 from.
the driveshaft shop will have have you measure from the transfer case output shaft to the pinion shaft with the vehicle at ride height. that's it, they know how to figure out the rest. I send mine over to the shop via courier service in the morning and it is delivered back by the same afternoon. new tube , painted , balanced, greased and ready to run. heck, it's easier then changing a unjoint.
edit..fwiw, to simply shorten a driveline the shop will take your driveshaft and put it in a lathe, then turn off one of the ends, they then cut the tube to the new length, stick the yoke or flange end piece back on the tube and weld it up while still in the lathe. my guy hits it with a rattle can while still warm. then they put the new shorter assembly in a balancing lathe and bingo, 15 minutes later your driveshaft is shorter. to make a longer shaft or replace a damaged or dented tube they cut both ends off and weld in a new tube. takes a few minutes longer and cost a bit more because you need the new tubing. still a quick process.
the driveshaft shop will have have you measure from the transfer case output shaft to the pinion shaft with the vehicle at ride height. that's it, they know how to figure out the rest. I send mine over to the shop via courier service in the morning and it is delivered back by the same afternoon. new tube , painted , balanced, greased and ready to run. heck, it's easier then changing a unjoint.
edit..fwiw, to simply shorten a driveline the shop will take your driveshaft and put it in a lathe, then turn off one of the ends, they then cut the tube to the new length, stick the yoke or flange end piece back on the tube and weld it up while still in the lathe. my guy hits it with a rattle can while still warm. then they put the new shorter assembly in a balancing lathe and bingo, 15 minutes later your driveshaft is shorter. to make a longer shaft or replace a damaged or dented tube they cut both ends off and weld in a new tube. takes a few minutes longer and cost a bit more because you need the new tubing. still a quick process.
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
having a drive shaft retubed is a simple and inexpensive process. or just get the shaft out of the same vehicle you get the D60 from.
the driveshaft shop will have have you measure from the transfer case output shaft to the pinion shaft with the vehicle at ride height. that's it, they know how to figure out the rest. I send mine over to the shop via courier service in the morning and it is delivered back by the same afternoon. new tube , painted , balanced, greased and ready to run. heck, it's easier then changing a unjoint.
edit..fwiw, to simply shorten a driveline the shop will take your driveshaft and put it in a lathe, then turn off one of the ends, they then cut the tube to the new length, stick the yoke or flange end piece back on the tube and weld it up while still in the lathe. my guy hits it with a rattle can while still warm. then they put the new shorter assembly in a balancing lathe and bingo, 15 minutes later your driveshaft is shorter. to make a longer shaft or replace a damaged or dented tube they cut both ends off and weld in a new tube. takes a few minutes longer and cost a bit more because you need the new tubing. still a quick process.
the driveshaft shop will have have you measure from the transfer case output shaft to the pinion shaft with the vehicle at ride height. that's it, they know how to figure out the rest. I send mine over to the shop via courier service in the morning and it is delivered back by the same afternoon. new tube , painted , balanced, greased and ready to run. heck, it's easier then changing a unjoint.
edit..fwiw, to simply shorten a driveline the shop will take your driveshaft and put it in a lathe, then turn off one of the ends, they then cut the tube to the new length, stick the yoke or flange end piece back on the tube and weld it up while still in the lathe. my guy hits it with a rattle can while still warm. then they put the new shorter assembly in a balancing lathe and bingo, 15 minutes later your driveshaft is shorter. to make a longer shaft or replace a damaged or dented tube they cut both ends off and weld in a new tube. takes a few minutes longer and cost a bit more because you need the new tubing. still a quick process.
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Well I ordered a D60 from hollander. I'm going to go ahead and go through it when it gets here. I'm planning on new unit bearings, needle bearings and seals. Anything else I should plan on beforehand (obviously anything worn I find gets replaced).
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
If memory serves you may need a shorter driveshaft. Not sure so take some measurements before removing the D50.
Probably need to make sure your new bearings have proper threadS for lug nuts. I think most D60s have fine threads, yours may have course threads. Just confirm what you have/want.
Probably should put some gear lube in it after you get it and tip unit to make sure inner seals are good. Easier to replace inner seals with unit out if they leak.
I would put a Eaton Elocker in that thing while it's easy...but that's just me.
Let us know how the 60 looks, I've always had good luck with Hollander yards.
Probably need to make sure your new bearings have proper threadS for lug nuts. I think most D60s have fine threads, yours may have course threads. Just confirm what you have/want.
Probably should put some gear lube in it after you get it and tip unit to make sure inner seals are good. Easier to replace inner seals with unit out if they leak.
I would put a Eaton Elocker in that thing while it's easy...but that's just me.
Let us know how the 60 looks, I've always had good luck with Hollander yards.
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I'm already planning on doing all the bearings and seals before it goes into the truck. As for drive shaft I've taken some measurements and we will see how it comes out. I'm doing V/Bs at the same time so that may make shortening it unnecessary we'll see. I'll be documenting the whole process here so look for pictures as soon as the new (to me) unit shows up and I get some time.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Didn't the diesel versions come with v codes in front?
My V codes on a 6.8l gasser gave me about 2" of lift, yours should be a little less.
Driveshaft flange to flange length on front of mine changed about 1/4". Rear was 1/2 inch.
My V codes on a 6.8l gasser gave me about 2" of lift, yours should be a little less.
Driveshaft flange to flange length on front of mine changed about 1/4". Rear was 1/2 inch.
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