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I'll be doing Fitech self-learning tbi fuelie setup if all goes well this spring. I had planned on swapping in a '92-'96 F-series tank stock style pump and return setup. Upon researching I'm learning the sending unit is not compatible with my '77 gauge. It seems my old sender won't swap on also? I haven't seen where anyone actually tried it.
The FiTech, like edelbrock and MSD's setup has an external pump you can just hook to your existing fuel pickup. I don't trust my 39 year old 5/16" fuel pickup tube to feed my high compression, 350hp/450tq motor reliably, especially under hard acceleration or braking. I also worry about noise from the external pump.
Ideally I'd like to make the OE Ford setup work. Barring that I'm thinking of welding a sump in the stock tank to feed an external pump which I'll try to isolate from the frame to minimize noise.
I'll bite. I have only researched the edelbrock and FAST systems. I hope you do this set-up.
Can you modify the sender out of the dentside tank to fit into a newer EFI tank? If not there's always aftermarket fuel gauges, not sure if you were thinking about upgrading your entire gauge cluster or not.
Some pumps are more quite than others especially if you use rubber to mount it
I had this problem and couldn't figure out an easier way to get around it. I do remember HIO Silver mentioning using mustang parts in the rear tank to make it work though, so maybe a search might come up with something.
What I did was use the 90's gauges with the tank(s). I wanted to swap out the Alt light for a voltmeter so doing it this way made sense to me.
The '90's gauges use full voltage so I had to remove and bypass the IVR (Instrument Voltage Regulator) and they also had a ground connection. I JB Welded and Hot glued and Soldered it all together until my brain got numb, but it works! I gutted the original gauge/light pods and mounted the new gauges in them using JB weld to hold them, while soldering the wires to the original pod posts. The Ground was the hardest and I left the new Pin on and drilled through the Cluster plastic to make the connections.
It came out looking awesome and gave the cluster an updated look. Here's some photo's after the work:
#1...be extremely careful if you're considering welding on a fuel tank. An empty tank with residual vapor is more explosive than a full gas tank. You might consider a new tank. They're not that expensive and you can get one ready-equipped for FI with a sump, an in-tank pump and choose from fuel senders that might be already compatible with your dash gauge. Tanks Inc. is the company that I dealt with...good information and products available to make the conversion. Might be easier to buy ready-to-go than converting everything over. You'll also need a return line to the tank. Tanks Inc. in-tank fuel pump is set up to accept the return line from your FI unit.
#1...be extremely careful if you're considering welding on a fuel tank. An empty tank with residual vapor is more explosive than a full gas tank. You might consider a new tank. They're not that expensive and you can get one ready-equipped for FI with a sump, an in-tank pump and choose from fuel senders that might be already compatible with your dash gauge. Tanks Inc. is the company that I dealt with...good information and products available to make the conversion. Might be easier to buy ready-to-go than converting everything over. You'll also need a return line to the tank. Tanks Inc. in-tank fuel pump is set up to accept the return line from your FI unit.
There's a procedure for welding on a vessel that contained gasoline, and it involves filling with inert gasses and etc. For the money, you can buy new steel tanks for like $77 at Napa last time I checked, for that much even if you want to weld a pickup in, you're better off buying a new tank and cutting and welding it before it ever sees gasoline. Just make sure you can weld water tight.... Test it with water before you fill with gas.
Have a local radiator shop where I used to work that can clean it with acid for me and get it ready to weld. Rockauto has a new tank for like $80 shipped though so I'm still undecided. We used to get like $100 for cleaning a tank but I bet my old boss would do it cheap or free
I went with a new 38 gallon tank for my 78 F250, cut out a section, welded in a new pan, installed an in tank electric pump, and a fuel sending unit from tanksinc. If youre going with the FiTech system, then I highly recommend picking up a corvette filter/regulator. Its already set to 58psi, which is what the FiTech system needs. Then you only have to run a line from your tank to the filter regulator, a return line from there to the tank, keeping it short, and a single line up to the FiTech. And the good news is that it is a cheap filter/regulator, and you can even get it from tanksinc as well.
I went with a new 38 gallon tank for my 78 F250, cut out a section, welded in a new pan, installed an in tank electric pump, and a fuel sending unit from tanksinc. If youre going with the FiTech system, then I highly recommend picking up a corvette filter/regulator. Its already set to 58psi, which is what the FiTech system needs. Then you only have to run a line from your tank to the filter regulator, a return line from there to the tank, keeping it short, and a single line up to the FiTech. And the good news is that it is a cheap filter/regulator, and you can even get it from tanksinc as well.
You're a beautiful man, I could kiss you. That should work with my stock tank and give the OEM type of install I'm looking for. The FiTech has an internal regulator and fuel pump voltage controller so I *think* I should not need that regulator.
I think the tanks Inc 255 lph pump setup should do it, all else I'd need is an after filter, hose and fittings
Another option would be what I did and use an Airtex E2089S (from 1984-85 F350 7.5L).
Only low pressure internal pump on it so you would still need an external pump (I used a 90's Ford frame rail one). But at least it drops into the rear tank, the level sender outputs the same range, and has a return line provision.
Only other detail was that I couldn't find a pigtail to connect to the 3 pin flange connector so I modified a 2 pin one to get power to the pump.
Ideally a setup completely within the tank would have been awesome, but since i have a plastic front tank I had to go with this type of solution as a high pressure in tank pump won't fit through the tank hole, and can't exactly weld in a newer setup...
Looking at a picture of the stock tank the Tanks Inc. setup should fit nicely where the vent valve goes. Enlarge the hole, flatten one dimple, bob's your uncle.
Tentative plan is :
TanksInc 255 lph in-tank setup ( Fitech sells 255lph in their kit so I'm matching)
-6 push lock hose and associated fittings to an external filter
-6 push lock hose from filter to throttle body
No return planned at this point
While a pain in the butt and slightly more expensive, I believe in-tank is the best
Hi, If you use an 89 tank and factory high pressure pump with an 85-86 sending unit the ohm are correct. I did this in my 73 F100 and have over 13,000 miles on it. I bought all of the parts from rockauto make sure you use 3/8 line for everything there are more fitting available if you use any AN stuff. Here is the write up used.
Hi, If you use an 89 tank and factory high pressure pump with an 85-86 sending unit the ohm are correct. I did this in my 73 F100 and have over 13,000 miles on it. I bought all of the parts from rockauto make sure you use 3/8 line for everything there are more fitting available if you use any AN stuff. Here is the write up used.
