1949 F1 Build Any Pointers ??
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1949 F1 Build Any Pointers ??
I started this build today was wondering if anyone knew the best place for replacement bed panels it seems on the 49 the price goes up by a lot compared to the 50-52 i have a lot of parts at sand blasting and plan on doing a Ford 351W any pointers or reccomendations would be a big help
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Mike,
Welcome Aboard! Good to see another '48-'52 being saved
over there. We used Midwest Early Ford for all of our body parts - they
are good to work with. We also went with a 351W in our '50 F1.
Unfortunately the '48 to early '50 models had a more complicated bed
with half moons on the side & a ribbed pattern on the portion behind the cab, etc. You look to
have most of those bits - maybe you just need a wood floor & some new bed supports.
Before you put your bed back on there maybe you will want to move the gas tank out of the cab
& put it between the rails under the bed? We used a 22 gallon '70 mustang tank adding 40% more
range vs the 26 gallon stock tank. Look for Jniolin's write up.
If you want better gearing (highway speeds) you may want to upgrade that rear axle to an Explorer
8.8 or a Ford 9 inch. (We went with a 2001 Explorer 8.8 with 3.73 gears, disc brakes, & limited slip dif. -
changes your wheel stud pattern though).
Start a build thread & ask any questions you want - You'll get plenty of opinions & advice.
Look forward to seeing your progress over there in Rhode Island.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
Welcome Aboard! Good to see another '48-'52 being saved
over there. We used Midwest Early Ford for all of our body parts - they
are good to work with. We also went with a 351W in our '50 F1.
Unfortunately the '48 to early '50 models had a more complicated bed
with half moons on the side & a ribbed pattern on the portion behind the cab, etc. You look to
have most of those bits - maybe you just need a wood floor & some new bed supports.
Before you put your bed back on there maybe you will want to move the gas tank out of the cab
& put it between the rails under the bed? We used a 22 gallon '70 mustang tank adding 40% more
range vs the 26 gallon stock tank. Look for Jniolin's write up.
If you want better gearing (highway speeds) you may want to upgrade that rear axle to an Explorer
8.8 or a Ford 9 inch. (We went with a 2001 Explorer 8.8 with 3.73 gears, disc brakes, & limited slip dif. -
changes your wheel stud pattern though).
Start a build thread & ask any questions you want - You'll get plenty of opinions & advice.
Look forward to seeing your progress over there in Rhode Island.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
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New User
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Thanks So much thats exactly what i needed putting a parts list together with no clue is not easy, I appreciate the welcoming and ill def post the updates i have a bunch of parts already at media blasting the frame and cab will be there in 2 weeks then ill really know what I'm dealing with .. Also just curious what transmission bolts up to the 351W i wasn't to sure .. thanks again. 
FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
Welcome Mike. From what I can see in the pic of your bed, it is in much better shape than mine was when I got mine. I was able to get mine back in decent shape considering I had zero experience. Personally I like the details on the early F1s bed sides a lot, along with the tailgate with the old Ford script embossed on it adds a lot of character. The 48 thru early 50 bed did come with a wood sub floor covered by an embossed steel sheet which I chose to replace with a oak wood bed & SS dividing strips because I like the look of it, but both styles of bed floor are available depending on your personnel preference. What ever you decide to do I'm sure you are going to love the process of bringing your truck back to life. And I along with everyone else will enjoy watching and helping where we can.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Mike,
We put an AOD transmission behind our 351W. It's a 3 speed automatic plus overdrive -
doesn't require a computer - runs off of a cable with a Lokar shifter. I'm sure there are
different manual transmissions you could go with plus an AODE transmission (which is the successor
to the AOD) but it will require a computer module to set shift points.
If I had it to do over I'd go with a 5 speed Manual trans - I went automatic as I thought my wife might drive it - nope.
Be sure to mount the 351W a little over toward the passenger side
- you will want the room for your headers & the steering on the driver's side.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
(Look at Baumann Engineering for a good write up on the different transmission options available).
We put an AOD transmission behind our 351W. It's a 3 speed automatic plus overdrive -
doesn't require a computer - runs off of a cable with a Lokar shifter. I'm sure there are
different manual transmissions you could go with plus an AODE transmission (which is the successor
to the AOD) but it will require a computer module to set shift points.
If I had it to do over I'd go with a 5 speed Manual trans - I went automatic as I thought my wife might drive it - nope.
Be sure to mount the 351W a little over toward the passenger side
- you will want the room for your headers & the steering on the driver's side.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
(Look at Baumann Engineering for a good write up on the different transmission options available).
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Hello and welcome to the forum.
Your bed parts look pretty good. If there is a lot of damage and rust that isn't showing in your pictures, I think Northern Classic Truck is the place to get bed parts. He is one of the manufacturers with the proper tooling. Many other suppliers are re-sellers & this guy is the real deal.
Before I bought the bed, I happened to be in Michigan on a business trip, so I stopped in to see their shop & take a look at the products. It was interesting to see raw sheet metal being stamped into Ford parts.
Dan
Your bed parts look pretty good. If there is a lot of damage and rust that isn't showing in your pictures, I think Northern Classic Truck is the place to get bed parts. He is one of the manufacturers with the proper tooling. Many other suppliers are re-sellers & this guy is the real deal.
Before I bought the bed, I happened to be in Michigan on a business trip, so I stopped in to see their shop & take a look at the products. It was interesting to see raw sheet metal being stamped into Ford parts.
Dan
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 507
From: clinton,tn
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 422
From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
Welcome Mikey! While others have correctly mentioned the 48-50 bed features, I would add a note about the rear fenders. The embossed feature - or lack of that feature - are carried into the rear fenders. Should you decide replace your bed with a straight sided version, the fenders you have will not fit up properly.
The real take away should be that some rust repair work is needed for any project truck. Our own Ax has provided an extensive write up for the new welder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
In addition, our own Bob Jones has created a sheetmetal reference that may be of use: Body Part Interchange Guide
The rear end swaps have a good FTE reference as well: 1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps - Ford-Trucks.com
The real take away should be that some rust repair work is needed for any project truck. Our own Ax has provided an extensive write up for the new welder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
In addition, our own Bob Jones has created a sheetmetal reference that may be of use: Body Part Interchange Guide
The rear end swaps have a good FTE reference as well: 1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps - Ford-Trucks.com
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Stephenville Tx.
hey welcome aboard Micky... I'm working on a old 49 f1 too. Lot of great help and guys here on FTE. I'm looking at replacing the floor in my bed with a metal one out of a 70 f100 long wide. I bought the 1970 f100 for a parts truck using the rearend, 302 motor and trans and a few other little odds and ends, The rearend worked perfect. again welcome aboard
mike
mike
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 487
Likes: 7
From: Cameron, NC
Welcome, and have fun with your build! I used Ax's advice when planning my build and made up a set of 5" x 8" index cards, one for each "system" of my truck. Put down all your thoughts and options on the cards (in PENCIL) and as you work your way through your plan you can change and adapt. It's been a good guide for me.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 879
Likes: 40
From: Colorado Springs /Mesa AZ
Welcome from the Darkside. What is the plan for you're 49?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lt-thread.html
_______________________________________
1946 Ford Tudor - Lightly toasted
1948 Ford F1 - Darkside
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lt-thread.html
_______________________________________
1946 Ford Tudor - Lightly toasted
1948 Ford F1 - Darkside
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:)
Thanks so much guys this forum is so awesome I have a lot of plans going on in my head but I'm trying to take it slow and just gather everything .. I got the rear end being pulled and the AOD transmission a 351w rebuilt being dropped off tonight . I can't say it gonna be a factory back to original restoration , I'm thinking very clean black and chrome black leather great stance kinda looking for more of a custom truck I work at a aftermarket Audio Shop Called. Sound FX in RI so I have had my share of customizing , I also do a lot of paint work at my house.. I been looking for a truck like this for a while .. I'm def gonna see this threw and I'm so excited to see the end result , and I greatly appreciate you guys taking the time to welcome me to the forum and give me some pointers I'm def gonna keep updating my progress , thank you
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2016
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Hey Mike,
We put an AOD transmission behind our 351W. It's a 3 speed automatic plus overdrive -
doesn't require a computer - runs off of a cable with a Lokar shifter. I'm sure there are
different manual transmissions you could go with plus an AODE transmission (which is the successor
to the AOD) but it will require a computer module to set shift points.
If I had it to do over I'd go with a 5 speed Manual trans - I went automatic as I thought my wife might drive it - nope.
Be sure to mount the 351W a little over toward the passenger side
- you will want the room for your headers & the steering on the driver's side.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
(Look at Baumann Engineering for a good write up on the different transmission options available).
We put an AOD transmission behind our 351W. It's a 3 speed automatic plus overdrive -
doesn't require a computer - runs off of a cable with a Lokar shifter. I'm sure there are
different manual transmissions you could go with plus an AODE transmission (which is the successor
to the AOD) but it will require a computer module to set shift points.
If I had it to do over I'd go with a 5 speed Manual trans - I went automatic as I thought my wife might drive it - nope.
Be sure to mount the 351W a little over toward the passenger side
- you will want the room for your headers & the steering on the driver's side.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
(Look at Baumann Engineering for a good write up on the different transmission options available).
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Welcome Mikey! While others have correctly mentioned the 48-50 bed features, I would add a note about the rear fenders. The embossed feature - or lack of that feature - are carried into the rear fenders. Should you decide replace your bed with a straight sided version, the fenders you have will not fit up properly.
The real take away should be that some rust repair work is needed for any project truck. Our own Ax has provided an extensive write up for the new welder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
In addition, our own Bob Jones has created a sheetmetal reference that may be of use: Body Part Interchange Guide
The rear end swaps have a good FTE reference as well: 1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps - Ford-Trucks.com
The real take away should be that some rust repair work is needed for any project truck. Our own Ax has provided an extensive write up for the new welder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
In addition, our own Bob Jones has created a sheetmetal reference that may be of use: Body Part Interchange Guide
The rear end swaps have a good FTE reference as well: 1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps - Ford-Trucks.com
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Looking Decent ?
Got a couple parts back today I'm thinking the grille is in such good shape, one doors a little hurt... the pic of the 351W is the one I'm picking up tomorrow he says it has a mild cam he wants 600$ for it i do not have the casting code yet but I'm thinking for the price its a score... ?