Coolant Question
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Coolant Question
Yesterday I started to change the coolant in my 2003 Ford E-250, 5.4L, V8 engine. I opened the radiator drain plug and took out 3 1/4 gallons of coolant. I poured 3 gallons of distilled water, plus one quart of Peak coolant flush, back into the coolant reservoir.
I started the engine to let it run for the recommend 10-minute run time with the heater set to High. The engine then started to chug, and the Service Engine Light came on.
Did I blow the water pump? Does anybody have suggestions on what to do to solve this mess?
jjclkc
I started the engine to let it run for the recommend 10-minute run time with the heater set to High. The engine then started to chug, and the Service Engine Light came on.
Did I blow the water pump? Does anybody have suggestions on what to do to solve this mess?
jjclkc
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I went to a local auto store and rented a scanner. It turns out that cylinder # 6 Cop went bad again. I just changed it less than a year ago and replaced it with a Motorcraft DG-508 ignition coil.
What could be causing the same cop to being going out so quickly. Any suggestion would help me in solving this issue.
jjclkc
What could be causing the same cop to being going out so quickly. Any suggestion would help me in solving this issue.
jjclkc
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
The COP in any one plug position shouldn't fail due its location only unless there's something external to the coil itself causing all this.
If the boot is new, the plug is known to be good and not grounding the coil output directly to ground and/or the wiring harness connector isn't latching into the COP then I'm a bit lost as to what might cause repeated failures.
Is there oil or coolant present in the plug hole after the #6 COP has failed?
Coincidentally this could be a case of bad luck too----not comforting but possible. Depending where the Motorcraft COP was purchased I believe Ford OEM parts and MC have a two year warranty these days---maybe check with the original vendor?
If the boot is new, the plug is known to be good and not grounding the coil output directly to ground and/or the wiring harness connector isn't latching into the COP then I'm a bit lost as to what might cause repeated failures.
Is there oil or coolant present in the plug hole after the #6 COP has failed?
Coincidentally this could be a case of bad luck too----not comforting but possible. Depending where the Motorcraft COP was purchased I believe Ford OEM parts and MC have a two year warranty these days---maybe check with the original vendor?
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I will check the Ford dealership on the date of purchase to see if they will honor the warranty, also check the spark plug and see if it shows any sign of oil or coolant.
I think you're right about the bad luck part. I had to take the van in for a rear brake job. No garage and tons of water on my gravel/dirt driveway. I drove it home, about 2 miles, and it ran like a top. Temperature hits 80º and water puddles disappear. I parked it and the next morning started flushing the system. I started the engine for the super flush and the COP goes bad. Yesterday I drove a short distance to my VFW post to watch the hockey game with my buddies and the engine ran smooth as silk. No, hesitation or chugging.
jjclkc
I think you're right about the bad luck part. I had to take the van in for a rear brake job. No garage and tons of water on my gravel/dirt driveway. I drove it home, about 2 miles, and it ran like a top. Temperature hits 80º and water puddles disappear. I parked it and the next morning started flushing the system. I started the engine for the super flush and the COP goes bad. Yesterday I drove a short distance to my VFW post to watch the hockey game with my buddies and the engine ran smooth as silk. No, hesitation or chugging.
jjclkc
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Okay you might have touched on something I've dealt with, intermittent apparent failure of one specific COP.
Long story short I swapped a set of Granatelli COP's, like a rookie thought they'd improve performance yada yada yada. Within one month one failed, replaced under warranty. All this done in April of some year.......
Next winter I noticed whenever the overnight weather was below 35* F first start up in the morning I'd get rough idle, CEL triggered. After idling for 20 minutes to warm the interior could shut engine off, immediately restart and the miss disappear, CEL still on of course. This was repeatable and predictable, cured by swapping the original COP's back in, one at a time.
This happened to (so far) 4 of the 8 so I know its the cheap COP's, that they're finicky about outside temperatures. You could be experiencing something similar, weather affecting or causing the misfire.
Next time it does this warm the engine to full operating temperature then restart---see if that "cures" it for the moment.
Long story short I swapped a set of Granatelli COP's, like a rookie thought they'd improve performance yada yada yada. Within one month one failed, replaced under warranty. All this done in April of some year.......
Next winter I noticed whenever the overnight weather was below 35* F first start up in the morning I'd get rough idle, CEL triggered. After idling for 20 minutes to warm the interior could shut engine off, immediately restart and the miss disappear, CEL still on of course. This was repeatable and predictable, cured by swapping the original COP's back in, one at a time.
This happened to (so far) 4 of the 8 so I know its the cheap COP's, that they're finicky about outside temperatures. You could be experiencing something similar, weather affecting or causing the misfire.
Next time it does this warm the engine to full operating temperature then restart---see if that "cures" it for the moment.
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The engine ran perfectly until I flushed the radiator and turned the engine on to circulate the Peak super flush and distilled water. There are no leaks in the coolant system. The degas bottle started to look funny and the coolant started to turn a dirty green color. I try to stay on top of repairs myself unless snow or five days of rain prevent me from doing it on my gravel drive way. Then I"ll take it to one of three Ford dealers in my area with the best quote for the service needed.
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Okay you might have touched on something I've dealt with, intermittent apparent failure of one specific COP.
Long story short I swapped a set of Granatelli COP's, like a rookie thought they'd improve performance yada yada yada. Within one month one failed, replaced under warranty. All this done in April of some year.......
Next winter I noticed whenever the overnight weather was below 35* F first start up in the morning I'd get rough idle, CEL triggered. After idling for 20 minutes to warm the interior could shut engine off, immediately restart and the miss disappear, CEL still on of course. This was repeatable and predictable, cured by swapping the original COP's back in, one at a time.
This happened to (so far) 4 of the 8 so I know its the cheap COP's, that they're finicky about outside temperatures. You could be experiencing something similar, weather affecting or causing the misfire.
Next time it does this warm the engine to full operating temperature then restart---see if that "cures" it for the moment.
Long story short I swapped a set of Granatelli COP's, like a rookie thought they'd improve performance yada yada yada. Within one month one failed, replaced under warranty. All this done in April of some year.......
Next winter I noticed whenever the overnight weather was below 35* F first start up in the morning I'd get rough idle, CEL triggered. After idling for 20 minutes to warm the interior could shut engine off, immediately restart and the miss disappear, CEL still on of course. This was repeatable and predictable, cured by swapping the original COP's back in, one at a time.
This happened to (so far) 4 of the 8 so I know its the cheap COP's, that they're finicky about outside temperatures. You could be experiencing something similar, weather affecting or causing the misfire.
Next time it does this warm the engine to full operating temperature then restart---see if that "cures" it for the moment.
You're making a strong point when it comes to the COP acting up. In my case. I always installed Motorcraft COP coils when they failed.
I had to replace cylinders 1, 5 & 6 since I purchased this Van. I had to Change #6 twice in the past year. I plan to clear the code, drive it for a few drive cycles, and then see if the code pops back on. If it does, I will change it immediately. But it is running smoothly presently.
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I know non Motorcraft plugs fail prematurely, been thinking the same with coils, but I need to replace one, and at 145,000 miles, and not knowing which is bad, all would need replaced, the cost is astronomical, I'm considering a cheaper set. I have a miss, it's only occasional, no codes so nothing to indicate which is bad, you're lucky, the vans are so tight you can't check for failing ones like in cars.
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I purchased a used 2003 Ford E-250, 5.4L, V8 Econoline Van. I super flushed my engine. My system holds 29 qts of coolant. I noticed that no matter what I do, I can only get 3 1/4 qts of coolant out per draining. That is about half of the engine capacity. The problem I'm having is that after 7 flushes and 23 gallons of distilled water, 2 peak super flushes, the discharge fluid is still brown looking. In fact, the last attempt was darker than flush number 6. I did drive 120 miles on flush #6. Should I keep going hoping it gets looking like water or at some point give up. Or add 2 bottles of super flush at one time and run it for 10 minutes, then drain and see what happens. What do you guys
think?
think?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
I purchased a used 2003 Ford E-250, 5.4L, V8 Econoline Van. I super flushed my engine. My system holds 29 qts of coolant. I noticed that no matter what I do, I can only get 3 1/4 qts of coolant out per draining. That is about half of the engine capacity. The problem I'm having is that after 7 flushes and 23 gallons of distilled water, 2 peak super flushes, the discharge fluid is still brown looking. In fact, the last attempt was darker than flush number 6. I did drive 120 miles on flush #6. Should I keep going hoping it gets looking like water or at some point give up. Or add 2 bottles of super flush at one time and run it for 10 minutes, then drain and see what happens. What do you guys
think?
think?
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Joined: Mar 2014
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I purchased a used 2003 Ford E-250, 5.4L, V8 Econoline Van. I super flushed my engine. My system holds 29 qts of coolant. I noticed that no matter what I do, I can only get 3 1/4 qts of coolant out per draining. That is about half of the engine capacity. The problem I'm having is that after 7 flushes and 23 gallons of distilled water, 2 peak super flushes, the discharge fluid is still brown looking. In fact, the last attempt was darker than flush number 6. I did drive 120 miles on flush #6. Should I keep going hoping it gets looking like water or at some point give up. Or add 2 bottles of super flush at one time and run it for 10 minutes, then drain and see what happens. What do you guys
think?
think?
Brown coolant after this many flushes sounds like an oil leak into the coolant? No good if that's true. If you let the drained coolant sit for a week, does it separate into layers. That would let the oil rise to the top, water to the bottom. jim
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From: Maryville
You are not filling it because you can not empty the radiator, you'll need another, and I'd replace the oil cooler, get an all aluminum welded tank radiator. I am not looking forward to the day when my cooler fails, I am thinking it would be better to remove it, that's not a very good design.
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