Hey all

So I bought a truck that had no keys. Zero. He had the title and registration and was a church pastor in the middle of nowhere TX so I wasn't worried. It was a bit funky, but hey so is the truck at its age.

I knew he didn't have keys to the front doors, but the truck came to him that way originally from his father in law. And for both of them it had been a ranch truck so no real need for security - he lived on that ranch and used other cars. This lonely truck sat there for 6 years at one point.

And I knew the ignition cylinder needed to be replaced. What he didn't realize was the ignition cylinder that fit the truck was actually in between the cushions of the front seat, way down deep. I found it when I vacuumed the whole cabin out. He had used the back seat all the time and moved that around but he never moved the front one so he never found it.

So on to the repair.

My understanding is I just remove a couple bolts on the plate in front of the steering column, move the ignition switch back to its home on the column, ensure the ignition actuator rod is back into the slot and bolt back in place.

Anything else to it?

Here are photos.

Ignition cylinder

Steering column under the dash
I believe I take the two big bolts top left & right and the others are just spacers / aligning the plate on the column.

 

So I learned a bit more but I don't have this fixed yet.

First, all six of those bolts came off. I couldn't get to the ignition rod until I did that. Of course, then I realized I could take off the dash fascia to get a better view above the column anyway. Ah well that part is all put back together up there now.

I seem to have properly nested the rod in the guide slot on the switch along the column and slotted the "hook" end of the ignition rod into the switch and secured the whole mount. I tried to set that with the rod as far up toward the steering wheel as possible.

However, doing so & re-installing the cylinder does NOT give me ignition capability.

Is there perhaps a part within the steering column itself that I need to get at? Or perhaps do I need to replace the cylinder I have?

 

Ok I'm corn fused. Are you replacing the lock cylinder so you have a key and also adjusting the ignition switch? If you are okay replacing the lock cylinder there is no reason the drop the column.

 

The truck as I drove it home had no key/cylinder. It was started using a screwdriver on the manual ignition switch which had previously been pulled out from under that plate. The rod was not set into the switch because the switch was dangling down below by the pedals.

I want to restore the cylinder, have a key, and return to normal keyed ignition.

However, the cylinder I found in the truck is not working and I suspect it to be problematic. Or the alternative is the rod or switch itself has the issue.

 

If manually moving the switch, it works in each position and moves freely, I'd say it is fine. The same with the lock cylinder. How well does it work without the switch connected? You might need to help guide the rod so it doesn't bind up inside the column.

 

you need to install the key cylinder before installing the actuator rod into ignition switch. and the rack in the upper column has to be properly aligned otherwise the key cylinder will never go in.
and on to of that, my bet is the reason they removed everything in the first place is the upper actuator in the top of the column is broke and the key would not start the truck.

 

I did mine yesterday and there is a youtube film on the inet for how to do it for your truck. Took me 10 mins. A new lock cylinder cost less than $30 and is a deal.

 

I think it's this video you're referring to:

It sounds like the plastic or metal arm he mentions that's deep in he column that translates the movement of the cylinder to the rod. I don't feel any resistance when I turn the cylinder (it was installed first btw) so I think it's that piece I need to get to and check out.

 

if you have the cylinder in and feel no resistance when turned to start and the starter does not engage but the radio and dash lights work, than you will need to replace the actuator as described in part one and part two of those videos.

 

When I turned the cylinder I got the wipers going instantly which distracted me from the rest of what may have powered on. I believe I can get accessories on but nothing going forward clockwise with the cylinder.

 

i would pull the column down to inspect the actuator. if it is not broken, then the rack and pinion gearset that connects the key cylinder to the rod is not aligned.
either way, you will need to remove the steering wheel and blinker switch to access the actuator and/or gearset behind the key cylinder.

 

I'm going to open up the column tomorrow evening and see what's what.

OK, I think I found the part I'll need.
Steering Column Ignition Actuator Pin New Dorman 83280 | eBay

$13 for a hunk of plastic that will probably break again. Maybe I can find it on Amazon and save a little by buying everything I need in one place.

 

that's the actuator, alright.
as for it breaking again (it's aluminum, by the way) ... they could certainly have come up with a better design, but keep in mind that they DO last upwards of 20 years before they break.

 

Aluminum is MUCH better than plastic for something that will get a lot of twisting on it. Much happier with that.

 

Ok, got into the column further yesterday.

Rented a steering wheel puller from OReilly and yanked that out. The directions on the one they had as a rental were terrible including using a part that was unnecessary. But I got it off.

I found the video below to be very helpful during this whole process. Posting credit where it's due.


The actuator is definitely in fact the problem. I found the old one sheared inside. So I expect installing the new one will make the existing cylinder I have work fine.



But, putting in the new one was a massive pain in the butt. I'm still not done because I realized I forgot to put in the ignition cylinder "gear" part. Does the actuator part move at all forward until I put in the part in my hand? With just 1/4" movement forward on the actuator I could install the other piece. If I don't have to open the whole thing up again, that'd be best. Pain in my rear doesn't begin to describe that part of the process.



And what was more irritating was that while I pulled the signal electronics out, I think the very front panel separated partially and those two flat metal strips in my hand fell out. Not sure where they are from or what they are for.

Perhaps those were already loose and that's why I lost signal capability the other day?


Signal electronics

AND one of the tilt steering wheel pins that secure the unit in the column sheared the bolt that I used to extract it. Gonna have to replace that since drilling it out wasn't working at all.