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Ugh. The steering wheel pin that sheared off the bolt is giving me fits. What is the best way to remove a pin that had the bolt threaded inside it? I am trying to drill it out, but I don't want to ruin the pin if I can avoid it.
The problem is the steering column center post is in the way. I am trying to get something in there that is the right diameter and has a 90-degree angle but isn't too big as to not fit in the tight space.
I ended up using an allen wrench & mallet to get that pin out. But finding a replacement at the junk yard has been harder than I thought. Since I can get it out, I think I will continue to use the one I have. One less thing to have to pay for now.
Okay, I identified another part in the ignition that needs to be replaced. This little gear has one tooth broken on it, and the top right end of it seems a bit sheared off as well.
From what I understand, this piece is called the Ignition Actuator, as opposed to the Ignition Actuator Arm which is the aluminum piece I already replaced. Finding anyone who has it has been difficult, at best. I believe the part number is D1AZ-3E723-C
Much appreciated. That's actually also the lowest price I've seen on it and it's listed as being in stock.
Yep. This Ford shop has decided to be the lowest online price for Ford parts.
I had to buy a set of plug wires at a dealer in San Antonio after some mouse damage. The TX shop tried to charge me $103 when autonationwhitebearlake charges $38.
When I showed the parts manager in Texas the $38 online price he told me that it was below his cost. Gave me a "senior" discount down to $80...more than twice the price at my home shop.
Ok, slowing plugging away at this overall issue. I'm debating buying a steering column from the salvage yard, but there's no guarantee those parts will be any better.
So, I'm focused on fixing what I have when I can and ONLY buying what I absolutely must have.
Speaking of fixing what I have - here's a better look inside the turn signal electronics.
Turn signal electronics
See the two dark strips of metal stacked next to each other in the center to the right of the plastic post on the left? Those are the same two strips I identified earlier in this thread.
I need to understand how those are supposed to lay inside this compartment. I tried laying them down flat on the left and right to try to help make the circuit when the signal is engaged left or right. But the one on the left didn't fit in there very well that way.
They fit best in the spot they are now - vertical doesn't seem to be a problem. However, it would seem that this would only make a circuit when signaling one direction, at best.
OK, finally got the actuator piece (black one with teeth) installed. What a pain in the butt. Figured out how the cylinder gear mechanism interfaces with it and got that functional so the cylinder will turn.
Need to reconnect the battery and start it up. Found my battery terminal bolt sheared in half when I tried to open it back up (swelled up in the heat & would not go back on)
Should the vehicle start with the terminals not fully tightened? Because it's not starting without it. I'm getting ~12.98v on my multimeter and figured I'm just not getting enough juice due to lack of solid contact. Off to the hardware store I go for the bolt.
My ignition switch quit working, I hooked up a button to the solenoid, put two toggle switches on the dash, hooked the two yellow power wires to the toggles, Done! Cost $18.00, Time 1 hour, All the key switch does now is unlock the steering!
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