Having some issues with my new to me f250.

Truck is a 92 7.5l E4OD.

Today, I went to start my truck and it wouldn't start in park. It would however start in Neutral.

-ignition tumbler seems fine, springs back properly.

-the dash gauges do their normal stuff when I turn the key to crank it over, they all drop, radio stops, it just doesn't crank.

-gear indicator line is to the left of whatever the selected gear is. If it's in D, it shows in between N and D. If I put it in 1, it shows in the middle of 1 and 2.

Does this sound like an MLPS issue? Is the indicator misalignment part of the issue?

Seems like it's just been one thing after another. I was planning on doing radius arm bushings and brake shoes which really need some love, but this is more pressing.

Any wisdom is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Nick

 

Update-

If I slam the shifter into park, the truck will start in park.

 

Indicator misalignment is adjusted by a threaded **** somewhere on the cable that is attached to the shift lever. Adjustment of the NSS, or whatever it's called should be at the transmission.

I've found that if I can jump the starter relay to start the truck; the NSS is out of alignment.

 

That's the big clue. I can fix the no start in park AND the alignment issue all with two bolts.

These two bolts are near the bottom of the steering column, inside the cab. Crawl under the dash and look up the steering column. Find the bracket that is attached to the shift cable. Find where that bracket attaches to the shift tube on the column. There are two #30 Torx bolts that hold the bracket to the tube, and they are loose or missing. Tighten them and everything will work again.

 

X2 ^^^^


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Those bolts on that bracket were already tight. I'm thinking it's the NSS. The part is about 40$, so I'll probably replace that next weekend. Everything seems to be pointing towards that.

My reverse shift is also really hard, and the thing drives like it's got a shift kit. From what I've read that's all conducive to the switch.

 

Goto the transmission driver side and loosen the 2 bolts. Move it up a tad bit snug the bolts back up and try. Sounds like it is misaligned or the shift cable has some broken wire strings and not pushing the lever back far enough.

Even if u buy another mlps sensor you have to play with the alignment a little bit unless u get lucky on the first try.

 

While in "N" adjust as in the photo below.
E4OD TR sensor:

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This is a 4r70w/aode. But its same procedure. Align the marks while everything is installed and snug the two 7mm bolts i believe they are 7mm. If still no luck loosen and re adjust untill it turns over in park. Having a helper will make things fast.

I cant stress this enough. chok the wheels and apply the parking brake. Make sure your helper understands not to shift out of park for any reason and to also hold the brake while you are down there

 

Update

Swapped out the sensor, problem solved. I still do need to align my gear indicator though. Can't seem to find the wheel thing behind the dash near the column.

-feels like a brand new transmission.
-softened shifts a tad
-holds gears longer now
-less "gear searching"
-better power response due to proper gear selection
-torque converter lockup is happening at the proper times and not early or in and out of lockup.

For those of you looking to change this, here's what you need to do. I may add some pictures of my old connector and create a short video detailing how to PROPERLY remove wires from connectors like these.

1. Detach the cable by hand from the shift lever.

2. Remove nut holding shift lever on and set aside. I used an adjustable crescent wrench for this. Mine was stuck on pretty good. Should you have any issues, don't force it. Spray it down with liquid wrench or another similar penetrating oil, and use an appropriately sized box end wrench to avoid stripping.

3. Remove the 2 8mm mounting bolts.

4. Disconnect electrical connector and set aside old MLPS.

Note: before removing the wires from the old connector, take a picture of how and where they go in.

5. This step requires a gentle touch. You need to remove the connectors from the old electrical plug to put in the new updated plug. To do this, use needle nose pliers to pull the face of the plug off (by face I mean the plastic insert in the front of the ply. It just presses in).

From the front of the plug you should now be able to see the connectors which make contact with the blades on the MLPS sensor. To remove the wires and their conductors, use a small flatheaded jeweler screwdriver to push them from the front side out the back. They should come out easily.

DO NOT PRY, BEND, OR FORCE. YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CONNECTORS. They are fragile, and splicing a scavenged or new end onto your harness is time consuming and irritating. Just take your time.

6. Once you've got them out, it's time to put them in the new connector.

Note: Look at the and look at how they make contact with the blades on the MLPS. Ensure you insert them properly oriented so they are able to make conact. You may damage your new parts should you orient them improperly.

To insert the wires in the new connector, use needle nose pliers to pus them into their appropriate positions. You'll feel I slight click when the lock in, give them another gentle push forward to ensure they're seated all the way. Push your foam insulation and cap back on, you're all done with the connector.

7. It's time to mount your new sensor. Line the two dashes up like the picture above and install. It will likely wind up looking similar to the one you took off once adjusted.

8. Reinstall shift cable and tighten all bolts. (Anti seize is always a good idea on bolts).

9. Test by attempting to start in neutral and park.

10. Go drive it. If your sensor itself was failing, you may notice some of my aforementioned changes after I switched mine.

 

My truck will only start in neutral it will not go in reverse it will not go into any gear I mean it will but it will not move the reverse lights turn on let's turn on what is the problem?

 

You'd be better off starting you own thread, and explain the problem, than to just ask a question on a thread that has been dead for *six* years.