Ok so I've posted like 3 threads within the past week so hopefully I'm not annoying anybody. Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't help in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be a pita up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph. At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor. Y'all are wizards on this forum, can't thank you enough.

Idk of this helps but regardless of which spring i put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.

 

What you are describing sounds like a Boost issue. The Fuel Pressure (55 psig) is more than enough. Fuel pressure becomes an issue below 42 psig @ WOT - Loaded (9k lbs.) which provides about 35 lbs. at the head.


When you say: "blowing carbon everywhere" what exactly are you referring to? If you're talking about excessive black smoke that sounds like a restricted intake (Filter?) or fuel delivery issue. These things need to move air to be effective.


I'm thinking checking the Intake for a restriction,


Where is the Fuel Pressure being measured at? Where is the port?,


Double check boost (what is you're numbers at WOT?), (Boost System Air Check?)


And, running a CCT to see if each injector is doing its part.

 

have you checked your intercooler boots?

 

This is the one thing that makes me go.

 

Agreed! What is "good"? How much boost are you getting?

What kind of chip do you have in it?

Check for leaks around the exhaust manifolds, up pipes, etc.

Check for boost leaks too.

Also as stated, what kind of shape is the air filter in?

 

My boost gauge doesn't have a green-yellow-red "Good", "Moderate", "Bad" label on the face - it has a buncha numbers. Knowing that number would be "good".

Look in the engine valley, right behind the HPOP. There is an Injector Pressure Regulator that is electrically controlled. If the tinnerman nut falls off the IPR, the control coil can slide back when you go uphill... causing your injector pressure to dip, and maybe throw a code or flash the SES light.

 

EBP sensor???

 

Last night I made a little over 20psi taking it kind of easy so check engine didn't come on, I think I could have got it higher though. I just did the plenum inserts yesterday to address the boost leak I had. The problem really presented itself after the FRX install, which puzzles me. The air filter is nice and clean, expensive as hell to replace too, the pro guard 7 or whatever. Thanks for all of the advice so for. I'm going to see if there are any codes being thrown. I need to do a CCT I agree with that.

 

Up pipes leaking? Boost pressure will suffer as will higher egt's

 

Up pipes don't have any soot around them. It could be tunes. I need to get some custom tunes from dp or php. Ever since I installed the FRX it's been running rich and the superchips programmer is old like from 2004.

 

Oh yeah today I put an auxiliary transmission cooler on �� Pretty sweet

 

Have you tried pressurizing the System?


**MAKE A BOOST LEAK TEST CAP**

Using a 3 1/2" PVC CAP from just about any Hardware Store, drill a hole into the cap for a 1/4" Male Air Line Fitting which will work with YOUR air compressor, Tap (.250 NPT) and install.

Pick up a 3-3/4" Worm Drive Clamp. This will secure the test cap to the intake side of the Turbocharger.

Pick up an inexpensive in-line air regulator with a gauge of 0 - 50 psig (minimum).

USE:

Remove Intake Hose AT Turbocharger and install Boot Test Cap.

Connect Air Hose and SLOWLY increase the air pressure to between 15-20 psig. Do not exceed 20 psig as damage to a seal or similar item may occur.

Listening, attempt to identify anywhere air may be escaping. And, using a spray bottle with soapy water, spray all fittings of the CAC and Turbocharger System.

Tighten and/or replace parts as necessary.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CAC CLAMPS! They are designed to be tightened just past where the spring begins to compress. Overtightening will damage clamps requiring replacement and causing Boost Leaks.

I think I spent $15 - $20?

 

I did not see you reply to this question, so I will second this. That little tube and sensor gets a fair amount of soot. It is worth checking both of them for how clean they are if you haven't lately.
Larry

 

I replaced the ebps and cleaned the tube, was hardly even dirty. I did notice while doing it that my exhaust manifold is nasty as hell. It's literally rotting.

 

I know when my fuel filter is nasty, the truck seems sluggish.. Just throwing it out there...might be worth popping in a new one..