I have discovered that my engine and gearbox are slightly off center causing my clutch not to be able to connected without falling off the ball socket.
I split this off another post since its really its own topic.


Yep it appears that the engine and gearbox are slightly off center, 1/4" or more. I see two engine mounts on the right and left front, then a cross member support that appears to be where the gearbox is attached with 8 bolts... I don't see any other spots the engine and gearbox are mounted.


Any suggestions on how to move the engine and gearbox towards the driver side. Should I try to lift them up and slide?


Do I need an engine lift or jack? After review the engine and gearbox appear to be pretty isolated from the rest of the truck.


Ideas? Thanx.

 

About the only way the transmission could have moved is if the holes in the transmission mounting foot are worn. They will wear if the bolts are loose, and the bolts will wear also. Wear in the bolt holes of the mounting foot is very common. The rubber mount in the crossmember under the bottom plate with the 8 bolts, is fixed in the crossmember and won't easily move. It is clamped tightly under the plate. In fact, most of them are rusted in place and very hard to remove when you take out the bolts and remove the plate.
Mark

 

If you can post some pics of the motor mounts and the transmission mount, from various angles, we might be able to see the problem.

 

Maybe I should have explained. The previous owner "appears" to have taken the cab off (to paint), the engine out, and replaced all the rubber mounts, etc. I believe in doing so placed the engine back in slightly off center. So the mounts look good, and the 8 bolts on the gearbox mount are clean and loosen quite easily. I haven't removed the plate but my guess it's not rusted. I'll take some pics tonight (if it doesn't rain again).
Thanx.

 

Have you ever really examined the frame closely? I'm beginning to wonder if your problem may be from 'hidden' frame damage. Can you get this truck up in the air where you can check both frame rails for straightness or kinks?

 

I don't have a lift, but by the appearance I'd say this truck is in incredible shape. The previous owner did some sort of frame off restro. The frame was painted black. And the cab and engine areas are painted. You can see on the mounts are replaced. The fenders have all new bolts, etc. The engine was painted (poorly however covering some drains, etc.).

I'll take some more pics, but my first post shows some of the underside.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f6-1948-a.html

This truck is clean. The engine purrs. I don't think the frame is bent. You can see the engine and gearbox visually are off center slightly in addition.

 

Loosen the motor and trans mounts, wrap a tie-down strap around the trans and the frame, and crank it over.

 

what a good idea. I just ordered a couple really good straps. Those would allow a slow and even move. Thanx!

 

I can't see ¼" making that big a difference. The socket in the bell crank is deeper than that. Make sure that the bushing in the clutch bell crank is good and that the spring is there.




Clutch bell crank. This is mine and it was damage but still didn't come apart.

 

well I disassembled most of it and the parts are all in great shape. And I have new sleeves, spring, groment, etc.
It might be more like 1/4" to 1/2" and that is just enough for when you press the clutch peddle it slips off under pressure.
But we'll see this weekend...

 

I was incorrect there are actually 6 bolts and the holes are not worn.
Here are some pics (more to come). Before I move it please let me know what you think. It's nice here today so I could attempt to move it today but the hole mounts I don't believe will line up anymore...


I could extend the rod to fit on the ball mount...


Thanx.

 

I don't know if this helps or not but this is what the trans mount looks like. I think yours is the same (maybe without so much rust):



I had to modify the crossmember in order to get a 4R70W auto trans to fit. This included cutting out the center section.

That is a pretty stout part with serious bolts holding the trans in place. You might want to remove the bottom reinforcing plate and check the condition. My truck was "rode hard and put away wet" many times by POs but this part was solid. Based on this I would think that your problem lies with the front mounts or the frame itself.

An interesting problem. Please let us know what you find.

 

Are you sure that you have the correct clutch equalizer shaft and ball bracket that mounts on the frame? I would have to look at mine, but I believe it has a 7RT part # prefix.If the holes are not worn in your rear transmission mounting foot, the engine and transmission is where it belongs. You have another issue. The holes in the rear mount would have to be worn bad enough to the point of the mount or mounting foot being totally unusable for the engine to be far enough off center that the equalizer shaft would fall off. I will check the part # on my equalizer and measure the overall length and get back to you.
Mark

 

Here are a couple of photos of the equalizer shaft, 7RT-7503, and the ball mount.


From the centerline of the pin that connects the equalizer to the clutch shaft in the bellhousing to the end of the equalizer is 7 5/8". From the centerline of the pin to the edge of the frame rail is also 7 5/8", the end of the equalizer and edge of the frame rail should be in line. From the centerline of the pin to the side of the clutch shaft bushing boss on the bellhousing is 5/8". I hope this all makes sense. These photos and dimensions are from a '49 F4 which would be the same as your F6.
Mark

 

Well, I didn't move the engine yet since the bolts on the trans mount aren't worn and if I move the trans over I'd need to drill. Not good.
The plate came off quite easily when I took the bolts off. It's clean and it great shape.
I'm out of ideas. My clutch equalizer is the correct part number, my socket looks good. I'm still off 1/4-1/2". The rod that the equalizer connects too moves in and out of the clutch housing about a 1/2". I'm clueless about clutches so could the fork be off and require moving down the rod so that the rod wouldn't slop down 1/2"?

The trans cross bracket and trans, etc are level so I don't think it's warped.