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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Welding driver's side bed side panel?

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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #1  
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Exclamation Welding driver's side bed side panel?

Hi there, recently picked up a 1995 f250 to practice body work. One of my repairs will be patching the bedside panel. I already purchased the patch. It is squared at one end and follows the curvature of the wheel arch on the other. Should be a simple process of cutting, stitch welding a doubler in and welding in the patch.....

My question.
The rot also runs very close to the gas cap doors. Can I mig weld around these safely? I drew up two conclusions. One being to pull both tanks, which I really don't want to do. The other would be to fill both gas tanks completely, and after some time, stuff the inside of the gas door compartment with rags to block any potential fumes? The gas tanks are solid so leaks won't be an issue. The filler neck is also solid. Anyone have any experience in doing a similar repair?
All of my work will be done in a properly vented garage, but I might do it outside for safety.
Thanks in advance!
-Mike
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:40 AM
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You could disconnect the filler neck behind the body and seal it off good and have it bent out of the way.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:44 AM
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No way would I weld next to the gas tank opening. No matter what. You could stuff a rag in there but you run the risk of a spark catching the rag on fire. The best thing would be to remove the tank. That way you will be 100% positive you wont blow up and burn down the garage or house. Safety First.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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I also thought about this id just need a good seal. I might just suck it up and pull the tanks out as The Bone mentioned.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 12:18 PM
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Moved to 1987-1996 F Series forum.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 01:48 PM
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Why not run the tanks dry, then use your air compressor and stuff an airline down the tanks until the fumes are gone, it shouldn't take more than an hour tops to clear those tanks, just remember to keep the air flowing for positive pressure while you weld in the new patch panel.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 01:53 PM
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Didn't think about that. Would the residual fuel be an issue you think?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 02:51 PM
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Why not take the bed off?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mzaremba
Didn't think about that. Would the residual fuel be an issue you think?
I would think if you run them dry then pump air into them for an hour plus continue to pump air while your welding it would be ok...gas evaporates pretty quickly it's the fumes that will ignite so you'd have to use your better judgment as ti if there's no more fumes being pushed out....maybe some of the other guys have a better way....the other alternative is to flood the tanks with nitrogen gas.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:38 PM
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Pulling the bed is not difficult, and certainly the safest.

You're mig welding. You could fill them with argon/co2.

I've welded on tanks with dry ice inside, back in the day.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 10:09 PM
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do what they do nowadays. Body adhesive
 
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 01:42 PM
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Body adhesive...

Sounds like a great idea. Any experience with it?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 03:17 PM
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I would strongly recommend just taking the bed off. Way safer than risking blowing yourself up and you'll have more in the garage. I'm taking autobody classes in college and that's what we do. those OBS beds are a real pain in the *** though! how's the inner wall, rot-wise?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 03:47 PM
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you cant use body adhesive on patch panels, only on whole bed sides. Using adhesive on a patch panel would mean there would be a seam around the out side of the patch. Theres no way of doing a butt joint. Id just pull the bed. Its 6 bolts IRC. Have a few buddies over for some beers and pizza and yank it off
 
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 10:25 AM
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I did body adhesive / rivets on the wheel arches last time. I'm welding them this time.
 
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