When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
not sure if this should go here or tech but I need some info on how to clean my break master cylinder. it has a bunch of rust and sludge in it and is pretty empty, how can i clean it out to make my breaks work? thanks for the help
Degrease it and then let soak overnight in Evaporust and it will look sparkling new. You will probably need to hone out the bore and then replace the seals afterwards.
If the master cylinder is rusty, the lines and wheel cylinders probably are as well. You'll need to flush the lines or replace them - same with the cylinders.
I would steer clear of the WD40 and follow EFrazen's advise. You want this clean and rust free - not greasy.
someone told me to fill it full of wd40 and wash it out a couple of times? that work?
No. Petroleum/oil should not be allowed to get anywhere near brake parts and lines inside. It will ruin rubber parts in brakes. The master cylinder will need a rebuild kit. That is, once it has been inspected and determined that it's serviceable and can be honed safely, if the pitting and corrosion can be cleaned up. Most people just buy a new master cylinder.
IMO, the only safe way to drive one of these old trucks is after the brake system has been completely rebuilt and or replaced. Replacement should include anything that has a soft part, hoses, cylinders, etc. Steel lines should be pulled loose from the frame and examined thoroughly for rust. Better yet, all brake lines should be replaced.
As Tedster9 mentioned above, keep petroleum products away from the brake system.
Welcome to the forum. What kind of truck are we discussing, F1 or F100 ?
Personally I replaced mine along with all four wheel cylinders, linings, hoses, and brake lite switch, plus did a thorough brake line inspection and flush. Another thing to think about if you do replace is, do you want the original single cylinder master, a double cylinder master, or a vacuum assisted unit. Parts are sold by most vendors , such as Classic Haulers, Mac's, Dennis Carpenter, Sacramento vintage ford, and many other s that can be found on the net under 1948 thru 1952 F1 parts. Best of luck on your project, and a big FTE welcome from Northern California.
Hey Stockscooby,
Hmmm... Master cylinders... My son brought our F1 back from college with the front chamber
completely empty. Since you are going to have to mess with the master cylinder - might as well
upgrade to a dual chamber unit so your brakes don't all go out at once.
You will need to bench bleed the master cylinder to make sure no air is in it. Normally the replacement
master cylinder should come with a brake bleed kit. We bought our's from Summit - they sell a nice kit there to get power brakes.
Good luck over there & welcome. Pictures are always appreciated.
Ha! Yeah. I've driven this a couple times. In the '64 even many moons ago. It's UT 261 between Mexican Hat and Hanksville. I snatched the pic from here:
The Shafer trail is another road that is suitable, iirc, for high clearance 2WD in good weather. The West is full of good, graded dirt road. Stock up on water and some provisions and maybe an extra gas can. Lots to see!
Yes stockscooby, I agree with Tedster9. Replacement brake parts are easy to find. If you have an old brake part that is rusted and pitted particularly inside replace it. It isn't worth the effort and the danger to you and others.
This is Route 74, the Palm to Pines Highway, above Palm Springs. There are some terrible skid marks with broken guard rails where vehicles could not slow down on curves. Never saw the results but can only image. Otherwise a very scenic drive.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
