Hello all. I have some questions that the dealer couldn't explain.
1. I have a 2016 F250 S/C with a gas engine. the receiver on it is a 2" (class IV?) instead of the class V that I want for the tongue weight that I have on my trailer. Dealer tells me that the only way I can get a class V receiver is to order a diesel or have them retrofit the unit at my cost. They could not tell me if the same suspension (tow pkg., 10,000 gvwr pkg. and camper pkg.) would handle the extra tongue weight that would be placed on a class V hitch.
2. I ordered a 4x4 shift on the fly option and noticed that the front wheels also have manual locking hubs. He said that is a back up in case the electronics of servos fail, that I can still use the manual lock. I ordered this unit from the #2 plant in KY., so I am a tad hesitant about refusing delivery.
Any one know anything about these questions ?
Thanks,
Bob

 

2 - thing I like about the manual hubs is the minute you switch to 4wd it is engaged. Unlike shift on the fly usually takes several rotations to actually engage. Will help in situations like using a boat. You can stay in 2wd (because 4wd on dry pavement is a Nono) and once the boat is on the trailer you switch into 4wd and have immediate access to 4wd.

 

My 2016 with tow, plow and camper packages has a Class V 2" hitch.

 

My '04 and '16 both have ESOF. When I bought my '04 I really wanted fully manual instead of ESOF, but buying a leftover on a dealer lot, I can't always get what I want.

Anyway... Here I am 11 years later and the ESOF is still working fine. The hubs are Locked/Auto rather than Locked/Unlocked. I did have the hubs seize up after about 7 years(Stuck in auto, they still worked in auto mode), but it should be noted that I did zero preventative maintenance to them, so that's all on me. This last winter the hubs wouldn't come unlocked after I used 4wd, so I replaced them. New hubs from Rock Auto cost me right around $300 and they were super simple to install.

I haven't taken anything apart on my '16 yet, but I didn't worry about buying ESOF this time around. I feel pretty confident that it will last the life of the truck. I do think the hubs need to be removed and cleaned or lubed every now and then.

-J

 

??? Dave, I don't understand how you have a class V hitch with a 2" tube. What does your sticker say? Reese Co. tells me that one of the criteria of a class V hitch is the 2.5 inch tube that is there to support the higher tongue weight. The sticker on my truck gives the max w.d. tongue weight as 1250#. This is still within the class IV range that tops out at 1400# w.d. tongue weight.
And Wingit, does this mean that I have the option of using eos or manual lockout?
I appreciate the help, but this does nothing to answer my original post.

 

I have no idea about your hitch issues. What are you towing anyways?

Your auto(esof) hubs are either auto or locked. Run in auto and your hubs are unlocked and will lock and engage when the dial is turned. If they failed to lock or you preferred to have the hubs locked all the time so you wouldn't have the slight lag when engaging you can run them in the locked position. You are still in two wheel drive this way until you engage four wheel drive with the dial selector In the cab. But when in the locked position your front axles and driveshaft will spin even when the interior selector is in two wheel drive. No power is sent through them but they still spin and there is some inherent wear and drag.

Clear as mud?

 

First of all these issues are no reason to refuse the order.
In regards to your first question it is fairly easy to swap a 4 for a 5, they are fairly cheap, so get a price from them on retrofitting it. You could even sell the 4 to recoup some of the cost. I don't believe it is an option to order with a class 5 unless you're looking at 450 or 550 trucks, but I'm not sure.
In regards to the truck handling the tongue weight, that really has more to do with the hitch. A class 5 will increase the tongue weight obviously, but you would really have to load the trailer front heavy to get that much.
The truck should have no problem handling the increased tongue weight though. If it does you can always add air bags.
Another option is a weight distributing hitch, which will help with max tow numbers and make it easier on the truck.
For the second issue any ford truck with 4x4 has locking hubs. Esof trucks it is auto or lock. That just means when it's in auto they're free until you turn the **** in the truck.
The option to lock it is kind of a back up if the vacuum system isn't working so you can still engage 4x4 after manually turning the hub.
A truck without Esof like mine has lock or free. If I anticipate needing 4x4 I lock the hubs when I leave the house, then if I need it I pull the lever, and they are locked so it engages.
If I left it in free and engaged 4 nothing would spin on the front end.

Hope that helps ease some of your concerns.

 

 

Thank you Gents. The light bulb just came on over my head! All of my 150's have been manual shift or electronic.
The camper I am towing is an Arctic Fox 29l. It weighs in at 8340# dry and has a tongue weight of 1125# dry weight. propane tanks are 60 pounders and it has 2 batteries. The kitchen is in front and the main slide is forward of the axles. This is why I am concerned with the tongue weight.
I have talked to the Ford dealer, customer rep. in Dearborn, two rv dealers, and the reps.from both Reese and Blue Ox to try to find a reasonable accurate way to determine how much weight is actually transferrerd from the tongue of the hitch. I have gotten answers that range from "I 'm not sure, but you should be o.k." all the way to 66% of the weight will get transferred to the trailer and front tow vehicle axle. So, at the risk of hijacking my own post, if anyone has any type of formula or solide measurement system, feel free to chime in......

 

With your truck in 2wd have someone slowly move it (forward or reverse don't matter). Your driveshaft should not really move. Now manually lock the hubs. Have them move the truck again. The drive shaft should be spinning. Even though it is spinning it is not in 4wd. Not until you put the transfer case in 4wd so the gears lock together.

 

Curt makes a Class V hitch with a 2" opening. My F250 also has a class V with a 2 inch opening.