Trouble continued,
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Trouble continued,
Most have seen my other thread, "Here's my trouble". Well started teardown this past weekend. Was pretty straight forward. Had some trouble lifting the cab with the rads and seats in. Crane just would not get it done. so had to loose some weight. pulled seats and rads and front support.
Crane barely got it then. It's an auto crane rated at 2400 as short as it can go, but we needed it as long as it can go. Gotter done but it was a struggle. let me see if I can get a pic on here.
First is where I started, 2nd nekid frame, 3rd cab on trailer. Might take it to the scrapyard, to weigh it not scrap it.
Next up compression test should have the tools in a couple of days.
Crane barely got it then. It's an auto crane rated at 2400 as short as it can go, but we needed it as long as it can go. Gotter done but it was a struggle. let me see if I can get a pic on here.
First is where I started, 2nd nekid frame, 3rd cab on trailer. Might take it to the scrapyard, to weigh it not scrap it.
Next up compression test should have the tools in a couple of days.
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Great job. How did you manage to remove all eight cab to frame bolts without the cage nut inside the cab spinning loose? Especially the very front two. You are tackling the high pressure fuel system repairs yourself I'm assuming, as you outlined in your other thread?
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I am, cab bolts were no problem, well one was, the one under the drivers feet spun loose pulled the rug back and there's a rubber plug you can pull and get a 20mm socket on the nut. I was forewarned not to use an impact wrench so I did them by hand no heat. To lazy to drag the torch that far so chanced it. Cab has been off before. No locktite.
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Got 375 on 6 cylinders 250 on # 1&2. Haven't pulled heads yet. Six are good and equal. 2 are bad and equal. With oil in the cylinder through the glow plug hole those 2 came to near 400. Rings, cracked pistons, don't know yet. Weirdness in the equality of the results. If the front two rods were bent then oil would make no difference. so it must be rings or walls. Equal cracks would be a bazillion to one chance. Thoughts?
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From: Cottage Grove
Sounds to me like rings, if they were cracked the oil wouldn't have made a difference. Generally cylinder walls wear along with rings. You check to see if either of the injectors are or were over fueling/do they look like they have ever been replaced?
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I know the injectors were replaced January last year. The reciepts I have from the previous owner indicate that, this was from an injection shop in Central Texas. Reciept also shows a substantial cost for outside labor for engine work but I don't know what they did. PO stated he had it worked 0n for low compression on 5 and 7 if I recall correctly. I don't know what to look for for over-fueling. I will get the heads off this week and see whats up in side the cylinders. But it sure looks like a complete rebuild is in my future.
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From: Cottage Grove
If for whatever reason you have to replace the slugs DO NOT GO WITH FORD PISTONS!!!! Get a set of delipped pistons (if you aren't going for performance I would say don't get them coated) so you don't have to worry about them cracking in the future.
Also make sure you get the heads into a machine shop, 6.4s like to warp/crack heads... If you have to replace them get a set of oringed heads from UCF.
My thought on the injectors is if they were over fueling in 1/2 the wet stacking would cause ring/cylinder wear.
Also make sure you get the heads into a machine shop, 6.4s like to warp/crack heads... If you have to replace them get a set of oringed heads from UCF.
My thought on the injectors is if they were over fueling in 1/2 the wet stacking would cause ring/cylinder wear.
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I have been researching pistons etc. And your advice seems to be on par with my studies. Called Navistar parts last week to see about a works kit. They need a serial number I can't provide. Block was painted and the markings on the driverside below the head were damaged and are illegible. took the numbers from the egr tag but they could find no match. So it looks like aftermarket for the pistons anyway. Was unaware of head trouble with these. But I will get them checked.
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As far as wet stacking. I do have a bit of residue in the exhaust manifolds but it did not appear to be excessive. I suppose if when the HPFP was taking a dump it could have stuck the front two injectors open and wash those two holes. mighty wierd to me but, just spit balling, I guess the trash would continue forward in the rails until it hit the front and passed into those injectors.
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From: Cottage Grove
You won't be able to order from International, however places like NoLimitDiesel or Midwest Diesel can get them for you.
Make sure you have the block at the machine shop before you order though lol. Can't tell you how many people buy .20 or .30 over pistons only to find out the block has already been machined in the past and they can't take any more off. Always always always wait till the machine shop gives you measurements.
As for injectors, worn injectors will become "leaky" for lack of a better term. During warmup this leads to excess fuel in the hole. Generally if an injector hangs open completely it will melt a piston on a CR diesel. It could have been a ruptured egr cooler as well... Its always possible that is where the previous work came from. If the motor hydrolocked and damaged the heads but had been run for a while with coolant in the cylinders they may have replaced the heads thinking that's where the loss in compressing was coming from (cracks or damaged valves) causing them to miss cylinder 1 and 2 being low.
At this point it could be any number of things, not to mention that 6.4s are just prone to excessive ring and valve train wear...
Make sure you have the block at the machine shop before you order though lol. Can't tell you how many people buy .20 or .30 over pistons only to find out the block has already been machined in the past and they can't take any more off. Always always always wait till the machine shop gives you measurements.
As for injectors, worn injectors will become "leaky" for lack of a better term. During warmup this leads to excess fuel in the hole. Generally if an injector hangs open completely it will melt a piston on a CR diesel. It could have been a ruptured egr cooler as well... Its always possible that is where the previous work came from. If the motor hydrolocked and damaged the heads but had been run for a while with coolant in the cylinders they may have replaced the heads thinking that's where the loss in compressing was coming from (cracks or damaged valves) causing them to miss cylinder 1 and 2 being low.
At this point it could be any number of things, not to mention that 6.4s are just prone to excessive ring and valve train wear...
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Remove all eight glow plugs, just as you would to do a compression test. Connect an adapter to each hole, one at a time like you would, when doing a compression test. Apply regulated compressed shop air into each hole (with both valves closed, of course) and listen for air leaks. You're either leaking out the exhaust (which would indicate exhaust valve, and/or seat issue), the intake (which would indicate intake valve, and/or seat issue etc.), or into the crankcase (which would indicate a piston/ring, worn cylinder wall etc.), or not leaking anywhere (which would indicate a good cylinder).