Replace Motorcraft 2150 2bbl carb????
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Junior User
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Replace Motorcraft 2150 2bbl carb????
So more than a year ago when getting Grandpa's '74 running again I rebuilt the 2150 carb and it runs pretty good, but the PCV hose connection on the back of the carb had broken off still with the hose connected to the nipple. Since then I have just had it pushed into position, but now I would like to tackle checking/correcting any vacuum issues and I'm not sure if I should replace the carb or just "super glue" this connection back to the carb as a temp fix. The motor is a 302 and it has its own issues including a top end tick that sounds like it is coming from the valve train and probable bad valve stem seals. So until I determine the extent of engine problem I don't want to get crazy with upgrades. Any way to get this vacumm connection back to a good seal?? What to use?? Or just go ahead and throw on a Holley 2bbl?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: CT
I cant see if you posted a pic (work computer firewall) but if you haven't then please post a pic of the broken connection.
What I have learned is, get the engine running correctly before modification. One for a baseline, two to see if you really need to dump money into it.
Good advice which I don't follow. But I would definitely fix the vacuum issues and PCV. Also pull the valve cover off of the side which sounds ticky. It could be serious or nothing much besides wear. It would be a SOB to put all the work in it to find a broken spring or something else.
If the carb is intact meaning the broken part is just the hose, replace the hose. If its the metal barb from the carb then JB weld is your friend. I wouldn't superglue a hose to a carb though.
What I have learned is, get the engine running correctly before modification. One for a baseline, two to see if you really need to dump money into it.
Good advice which I don't follow. But I would definitely fix the vacuum issues and PCV. Also pull the valve cover off of the side which sounds ticky. It could be serious or nothing much besides wear. It would be a SOB to put all the work in it to find a broken spring or something else.
If the carb is intact meaning the broken part is just the hose, replace the hose. If its the metal barb from the carb then JB weld is your friend. I wouldn't superglue a hose to a carb though.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
2150's were introduced in 1975, 2100's were used 1963/74.
and it runs pretty good, but the PCV hose connection on the back of the carb had broken off still with the hose connected to the nipple.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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I cant see if you posted a pic (work computer firewall) but if you haven't then please post a pic of the broken connection.
What I have learned is, get the engine running correctly before modification. One for a baseline, two to see if you really need to dump money into it.
Good advice which I don't follow. But I would definitely fix the vacuum issues and PCV. Also pull the valve cover off of the side which sounds ticky. It could be serious or nothing much besides wear. It would be a SOB to put all the work in it to find a broken spring or something else.
If the carb is intact meaning the broken part is just the hose, replace the hose. If its the metal barb from the carb then JB weld is your friend. I wouldn't superglue a hose to a carb though.
What I have learned is, get the engine running correctly before modification. One for a baseline, two to see if you really need to dump money into it.
Good advice which I don't follow. But I would definitely fix the vacuum issues and PCV. Also pull the valve cover off of the side which sounds ticky. It could be serious or nothing much besides wear. It would be a SOB to put all the work in it to find a broken spring or something else.
If the carb is intact meaning the broken part is just the hose, replace the hose. If its the metal barb from the carb then JB weld is your friend. I wouldn't superglue a hose to a carb though.
I pulled both valve covers over the weekend (although ticking is coming from passenger side) and from what I can tell all the valve train components look okay, no breaks or gouges or anything loose. There is a little side to side play on most of the rockers, but I think that's normal, sorry kind of a newb. No sign of coolant mixing with the oil.
I will try the JB weld for now so that I can vacuum test. I've done a lot of googling trying to find a good vacuum diagram for a '74 302 A/T but haven't come across one and my service manual isn't a lot of help there. Anyone know where I can find one??
Yes ND you are correct it is a 2100, my mistake.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: CT
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html
has lots-o-diagrams
hopefully its a lifter and the lifter bore is still good. Even better would be a gasket leak. If you like the truck and have the time you'll figure it out, it only takes time and money.
If you have a spare set of hands, pull the coil to distributor wire off. have them crank the truck with the valve covers off and look for anything that's not like the others. Smart move with the vacuum gauge. best of luck you got this
has lots-o-diagrams
hopefully its a lifter and the lifter bore is still good. Even better would be a gasket leak. If you like the truck and have the time you'll figure it out, it only takes time and money.
If you have a spare set of hands, pull the coil to distributor wire off. have them crank the truck with the valve covers off and look for anything that's not like the others. Smart move with the vacuum gauge. best of luck you got this
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Lower pic: 2150 series 2V
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