Yes, it does sound like the noise. To test it, I pulled off the outer ring, put the timing cover and dampener back on and ran it. Not much of a change again (I think). I am going to look for a new eccentric though as I think it's contributing to the noise.

It now sounds like the clickity valve train noise (not like what you hear in the first video). Maybe it's just the way the cam is, I really wouldn't think so, but who knows? I've started and listened to this thing so many times, things are starting to sound alike.

Going to pull the cam and check it out. Got it this far apart, might as well go further.

 

Pulled the intake and rockers to check all the lobes on the cam. Here's my findings:




Multiply these numbers by 1.6 (rocker ratio) and everything comes out.

At this point, I can't find anything wrong with the engine, except for maybe the fuel pump eccentric. Going to order a new one this week and hopefully have it for next weekend. Also, I'm going to submit all my findings to Comp and see what they say, and find out what they think acceptable valve train noise is.

The last time I ran it (without the outer part of the eccentric on), it did sound better. How much? Can't say exactly because I could not run it long as it had no water pump or coolant in it, so that may be undetermined.

The camshaft end play is very minimal, only a couple of thousands. Cam turns really smooth. Crankshaft turns smooth with no weird noises. All the lifters are rotating and the pattern on them looks good. As of now, the only other issue I can find is the preload on the lifters. I'm at .072" & .068". As stated before, Comp shows this as being acceptable, BUT says optimum is .030" - .040". I shimmed the rockers .020" and got a new preload of .043". Right at optimum, with no change in the noise. So, if there was no change, I'm thinking my original preload was just fine.

Time to write a novel to Comp tech....

 

If you think it is valve train noise and you had the noise with both motors using the same cam do you think it could be the ramps of the cams being to sharp?


Like a roller cam profile with a steep ramp using non-roller lifters?
Just reaching out there.
Dave ----

 

That's one of the things i asked in the e-mail to Comp today. Don't have a vid because of run time without a fuel pump, but it has a slight solid lifter sound to it, not much, but some.

Here's what I asked them:
Is the preload being .072” and .068” good to run?
How loud is acceptable for valve train noise?
Does this cam just have a more aggressive lobe pattern that is going to make more noise than usual?

When I was checking the lobes, the dial indicator did seem to rise fairly fast.

 

Have you pulled the intake and taken the drilled restrictors out yet? That was a out-of-the-box idea and those are the ones that can cause strange problems that you can't predict sometimes.

 

They are not going back in when the intake goes back on. I've been curious about that too.

 

Those are the fuel pump dual cones I was asking about.
I removed mine and went to an electric fuel pump for several reasons.
Easier to change, no chance for diaphragm to wear out or rupture and get fuel in oil, etc..
With it down now, have you laid a straight edge across the top of the valve stem tips?

 

Sorry, forgot to add that info. On the pass. side, completely flat across. On the drivers side, there's one or two that have just a touch of a gap. After thinking about it, wouldn't the lifters pump up a little more and take that play out? It's not noticeable after it's primed up.

 

More updates.

When I had the dial indicator on the cam, I noticed something and for some reason, it slipped my mind. When I zeroed the indicator on the base of the cam and rotated it, I saw a "drop" in the indicator right before the lobe of .001". I only saw this on a couple of lobes. Video below:


This got me thinking last night. I am running stock springs (more on that later) and am thinking "What if the lifter is floating across that drop and slapping the lobe?" I know it's only .001", but I've seen less make more noise in engines before.

To the valve springs. When I found this cam, I went right to Summits site and got their pricing, etc.. I also looked at "Required Parts", and saw only break-in oils listed. Now, I happened to check the cam card and low and behold, it says "942-16 springs required". Wondering if these stronger springs will stop the "floating", if that's what happening.




As you can see, I'm really reaching out and grasping anything i can trying to find this problem. Really hoping something works and soon.


As of now, I have a new fuel pump eccentric ordered and will be ordering the correct valve springs, retainers and locks tonight.

 

You are really going all out. And, I understand. Untoward noises are a nightmare as I think all the what-if thoughts. Good luck.

 

If it is just a couple thousandths gap you should be o/k.
Video did not load for me. That part sounds strange.
Any way you can get correct springs to keep the rotators?

 

There doesn't seem to be too much offered in the aftermarket world to work with the rotators. I just ordered the exact part numbers that Comp listed for running that cam. Should have parts tomorrow.

 

In the quest to quiet things down, I decided to chuck the cam timing gear in the lathe and turn down the hub where the eccentric mounts. There was a ton of play in the outer ring and some of the noise was coming from that. The new eccentric wasn't much tighter than the old one. With it turned down, there's approx. .005" of play. Maybe that will stay quiet now.




The tech from Comp e-mailed me back, but need to wait for a response on what to do next. He's talking with a couple of other techs on how to go about this. Hopefully, I can get a hold of him tomorrow and get this thing back together.

 

So, the hub was too deep? It protruded too far? Or?? And, how did you chuck the gear in the lathe?

 

Well, I personally think the hub was too tall, but, that's how all of the cam gears I've seen are. For me, there was just too much "end play" in the outer ring of the eccentric, and I was not happy with that knowing it could cause a rattle again. Trying to nip it in the bud I guess you could say. The second "step" in the gear that has the two grooves in it is what the ring hits when installed. The taller hub is what determines how much play is in the ring. I think that makes sense...

There's another hub on the back side of the gear that I was just able to catch with the lathe jaws.