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Another shot in the dark.
If you pull the rockers off again, lay a straight edge across the top of the valve stems.
If the machine shop did their job correctly, it should be straight across, all valve stem tips touching the straight edge, none shorter.
I also will show if there is a faulty valve or valve seat if one of them is sticking up higher..
I would also keep the rotators if you are not going for high rpm....good stuff....
One other thing, is the fuel pump driven off the front of the cam?
I have seen dual cones on some engines with one of them being loose....
Good luck!
Made up some shims for the rockers.
New preload is:
I - .0375
E - .039
Ran it, no change.
I will try the straight edge when I pull the shims out. Yes, the fuel pump is cam driven. I scoped that area and the noise "seemed" quieter there. Maybe it's resonating through the cam? A buddy I was texting also said that one got him once. I'm going to pull the pump and see how it sounds.
Have you tried pulling the plug leads of while running and see if it makes a difference?
Been a very long time since I had a Ford engine apart, do they have an exhaust crossover in the inlet manifold? If so is this the same manifold as on the previous engine?
Steve
I thought about pulling the belts, but never got around to it. Putting that on the list for tomorrow.
The intake is the same one from the old engine. Weiand Stealth. It has the exhaust crossover, but I made plates with 3/16"holes that go in the intake gasket to block them off. The exhaust heat riser (valve in drivers side exhaust pipe) is gutted, so it's wide open.
I never thought about pulling ignition wires while running, but I have thought about pulling rocker arms one cylinder at a time and running to try to narrow down the ticking. If that doesn't make a difference, then I know it's time for a tear down and inspection. Just don't know how I'd keep the lifters from getting smacked to death from the cam lobe. Don't think that check is going to happen.
Going to try removing the belts and see what that does.
If there's no change, I think it's time to pull it apart. I can't think of anything else to do or check that hasn't been done. May have to do some cam shopping too. If everybody here and the guys at Comp Cams are stumped, it's time. The cam has got to come out.
Just thinking, the only thing in common from when the original tick started is the cam swap and inlet manifold being removed.
Were the exhaust blank off plates fitted before this started?
Steve
The block off plates were put in after this problem started, in the new engine only. Next time it comes apart, I'll leave them out and see what happens.
Just how loose are these eccentrics supposed to be? I always remember them being tighter than this one. The one on the old engine is the same way.
Could this be my source of ticking?
I also ran the engine without the fuel pump in and still had the noise. Going to dig through my piles and look for a tighter one. Maybe all the gunk between the pieces is keeping them quiet. I did clean both of them when the engines were apart.
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