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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

New engine...with a tick (Problem found...and fixed)

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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 01:40 PM
  #31  
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Another shot in the dark.
If you pull the rockers off again, lay a straight edge across the top of the valve stems.
If the machine shop did their job correctly, it should be straight across, all valve stem tips touching the straight edge, none shorter.
I also will show if there is a faulty valve or valve seat if one of them is sticking up higher..
I would also keep the rotators if you are not going for high rpm....good stuff....
One other thing, is the fuel pump driven off the front of the cam?
I have seen dual cones on some engines with one of them being loose....
Good luck!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 04:58 PM
  #32  
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Made up some shims for the rockers.
New preload is:
I - .0375
E - .039

Ran it, no change.

I will try the straight edge when I pull the shims out. Yes, the fuel pump is cam driven. I scoped that area and the noise "seemed" quieter there. Maybe it's resonating through the cam? A buddy I was texting also said that one got him once. I'm going to pull the pump and see how it sounds.

Results to follow.

Here's a vid of what I'm dealing with:
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 05:03 PM
  #33  
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I swear that sounds like a cracked flexplate or loose bolt on the flexplate
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 05:45 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Montync
I swear that sounds like a cracked flexplate or loose bolt on the flexplate
It does, doesn't it. Flexplate was torqued down, then double-checked. I always double-check every fastener that has an actual torque spec.



Well, I just pulled the fuel pump, and no change again. I was really hoping on that one.


Next?


Gonna nick-name this thing "Stumpy" soon, as it's got everybody stumped.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 06:11 PM
  #35  
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Have you removed the assecory belts? wondering if the power steering or water pump has in and out play
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 07:09 PM
  #36  
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Have you tried pulling the plug leads of while running and see if it makes a difference?
Been a very long time since I had a Ford engine apart, do they have an exhaust crossover in the inlet manifold? If so is this the same manifold as on the previous engine?
Steve
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 07:46 PM
  #37  
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I thought about pulling the belts, but never got around to it. Putting that on the list for tomorrow.

The intake is the same one from the old engine. Weiand Stealth. It has the exhaust crossover, but I made plates with 3/16"holes that go in the intake gasket to block them off. The exhaust heat riser (valve in drivers side exhaust pipe) is gutted, so it's wide open.

I never thought about pulling ignition wires while running, but I have thought about pulling rocker arms one cylinder at a time and running to try to narrow down the ticking. If that doesn't make a difference, then I know it's time for a tear down and inspection. Just don't know how I'd keep the lifters from getting smacked to death from the cam lobe. Don't think that check is going to happen.


Going to try removing the belts and see what that does.
If there's no change, I think it's time to pull it apart. I can't think of anything else to do or check that hasn't been done. May have to do some cam shopping too. If everybody here and the guys at Comp Cams are stumped, it's time. The cam has got to come out.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 08:46 PM
  #38  
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Just thinking, the only thing in common from when the original tick started is the cam swap and inlet manifold being removed.
Were the exhaust blank off plates fitted before this started?
Steve
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 08:59 PM
  #39  
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What he said ^^^^ Can the plates somehow let exhaust through in a way that "ticks"?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 09:02 PM
  #40  
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The block off plates were put in after this problem started, in the new engine only. Next time it comes apart, I'll leave them out and see what happens.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 09:05 PM
  #41  
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Oh, ok. Just grasping at straws.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 09:54 PM
  #42  
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That's about the only thing we can do now. I wish this was easier. I do appreciate all the help and suggestions. Thanks to everyone who helped.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 09:58 PM
  #43  
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Speaking of straws.. what about the timing... spark knock at idle? Had it happen on a chevy once..
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 03:19 PM
  #44  
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Decided to dig a little deeper and pulled the timing cover. Found this:




Just how loose are these eccentrics supposed to be? I always remember them being tighter than this one. The one on the old engine is the same way.

Could this be my source of ticking?
I also ran the engine without the fuel pump in and still had the noise. Going to dig through my piles and look for a tighter one. Maybe all the gunk between the pieces is keeping them quiet. I did clean both of them when the engines were apart.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 03:45 PM
  #45  
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That sorta sounds like the noise, doesn't it?
 
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