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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

Leaf Springs

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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 06:21 PM
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Leaf Springs

I'm working on the rear of my '59 and wondering about the leaf springs. Before I spend a lot of money replacing them, can they be disassembled and cleaned?
My vehicle had air bags in the coil springs. Are they available with out buying complete assemblies?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 08:52 PM
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springs

hi, yes leaf springs can be taken apart and cleaned. but first you must deside if they are in good enough shape to reuse. springs get weak over time and lose there spring. This weakness will lower the truck and lower the load capacity. If there condition suits your use then clean repainted and put back togeather. some people put Teflon or poly. between the leafs to help them work smother. I have done this many times.. If your springs are weak and don't suit your needs they can be re arched.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:32 PM
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Thank you for your quick reply. I think the springs will be ok. Do the metal retainers slide off? I imagine supporting the frame to remove tension, then unbolting the ends?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 12:32 PM
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SeaCarr, I see this post is a few days old so you may have already tackled the springs. What I did was lift it up until the wheels were lifted off the ground, took the wheels off and then put the frame on jackstands. Put your jack under the rear end and remove the tension. Remove the u bolts and lower the rearend. Now you can take off the springs. If the metal retainers are riveted on, you need to pry them open. Otherwise, you can pry them open enough so they will slide. If the springs are then cleaned and repainted, you probably will want to press them back together around the leafs vs beating them with a hammer (my favorite method). A vise works great for this. If you put a rag on both sides, there will be less marks. If you are using a hammer, a piece of wood will prevent the hammer marks.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 07:46 PM
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Thanks Martin. You used a vice to squeeze the springs together in order to get the retainers back on? Any tricks to remove the steering column? I'm at the point of removing the cab and that appears to be the next move.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 09:39 PM
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I actually have a hydraulic hose press mounted on the back of my work service truck. I use that when I need to squeeze springs together. I put the center pin/bolt through and then press it closed. I then tighten the center pin nut.

As for the retainers, I beat on them with a mini sledge if they are just functional and not gonna show. If they are nice and painted, I put the springs in the vise and squish the retainers back in place with a rag in between the metal and the vise.

You need to take the whole steering box and column off as a unit. Take off the pitman arm and any plates and brackets holding the column and then drop it out of the bottom. Kinda tight. I've had to take out the exhaust and move the front axle on some older cars and trucks to do this. If I am just removing it and don't intend to reuse it, I will cut through it on the engine side of the firewall.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SeaCarr
I'm working on the rear of my '59 and wondering about the leaf springs. Before I spend a lot of money replacing them, can they be disassembled and cleaned? My vehicle had air bags in the coil springs. Are they available with out buying complete assemblies?
They are going on 60 years, they will be spent by now or were a long time ago. Front springs too. Not only the springs themselves but the shackles and bushings and rest of it need replaced by now.

It's not just ride quality but also safety, the truck will handle, and brake, much better. A good quality replacement spring will be made out of the good stuff and properly heat treated. It will last. If there's a big truck shop nearby they would be able to make up any kind of a spring pack you want, for a decent price. Eaton and all the others make good stuff, but shipping is expensive.

The originals can be "cold formed" but is said not to be a lasting repair, they can also be properly heat treated (red hot) and formed and shot peened but the labor will be so high that this only makes sense on $$ collector cars where originality is important.
 
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