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It just seems that 20 weight virtually evaporates. And while pouring it in it just seems so thin. I have always been concerned that a 415 cubic motor with 10 cylinders had a lot of surface area to allow oil to get by the rings. So to me I totally understand thin oil and its ability to get to top end of motor but wouldn't it serve to reason that thinner oil allows more of it to get past the piston rings as well?
Who knows maybe the PO never did a proper break in procedure on the motor and so the rings never were seated appropriately = the position I am in now.
Yes, that is intresting.
It's basically saying thinner oils are used to meet fuel economy standards, but then says there is no evidence thinner oils really make a difference.
I do see the point, but I have to ask why Ford would change the spec on our motors years after they were made. They would not affect current year fuel standards Ford had to meet.
My excursion uses more oil than I like, but I can't bring myself to put anything over a 30W oil in as I don't want to affect it's ability to splash onto timing componets.
Not to throw another wrench in the mix but I did read somewhere that Ford went to a 5w20 spec for their lubricants to meet certain CAFE and EPA fuel mileage standards in the early 2000's. This way they were able to eek out a few tenths of MPG and make their engines run a little more smoothly.
I totally agree that 5w20 is way too thin. The first oil change I did on my 2013 mustang was 5w30 and it will be staying that way
Has anyone read that article Motor Oil 101 by AE Haas on the Bob is the Oil guy forum? I read the whole thing and it seems to be 180 degrees from normal train of thought. This guy references Ferrari, Lamborghini, Mercedes Maybach (his personal cars). So thin oil may work great in a super expensive engine with really tight tolerances. But to me it seems that oil has to be present to provide proper lubrication and if its blowing out of the oil channels into the combustion chamber and getting burned up its not serving its primary purpose.
FWIW, I use the motorcraft 5w20 semi synthetic. If I am to believe some of the oil threads I have seen in the past, a 5w30 shears down to a 20weight after 1k miles anyway whereas the 5w20 stays there. Even if that isnt true though, I don't think it hurts anything to run 20 or 30 weight. Anything above that I would be quite sceptical.
I run 5W30. 5W20 is very thin and it will get burned up under hard use. I used to run 5W20. But after one trip of the motor rattling in the a.m. The next day I went back to 5W30. The 5W20 is so thin when it's hot that drains down faster. So the next cold start it has to be pumped up through he entire motor. 5W30 doesn't have that issue. And I now only use less than a quart on a long trip, 1000+ miles!
Has anyone read that article Motor Oil 101 by AE Haas on the Bob is the Oil guy forum? I read the whole thing and it seems to be 180 degrees from normal train of thought. This guy references Ferrari, Lamborghini, Mercedes Maybach (his personal cars). So thin oil may work great in a super expensive engine with really tight tolerances. But to me it seems that oil has to be present to provide proper lubrication and if its blowing out of the oil channels into the combustion chamber and getting burned up its not serving its primary purpose.
Ambient temps DO affect the operating temps & as you noted especially at start up. I run 15-50 in almost everything over 100,000 miles down here. Reading about the Modulars issues (which I read was very small oil holes in the heads, never saw anything regarding the timing chain) Is why I'm trying 10-30. BUT I also always add at least 1 qt of Lucas so I do feel more comfortable about it. I also use full syn so I really don't think 40 or 50 wt would really have an issue with not flowing through the oilers fast enough BUT How the heck should I know
Ambient temps DO affect the operating temps & as you noted especially at start up. I run 15-50 in almost everything over 100,000 miles down here. Reading about the Modulars issues (which I read was very small oil holes in the heads, never saw anything regarding the timing chain) Is why I'm trying 10-30. BUT I also always add at least 1 qt of Lucas so I do feel more comfortable about it. I also use full syn so I really don't think 40 or 50 wt would really have an issue with not flowing through the oilers fast enough BUT How the heck should I know
I was thinking about trying some of the oil stabilizer in Stan.
How much do you use per oil change?
I think I might also switch to the Motorcraft oil.
I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic in a 5W20. I changed the PCV valve a while after I got mine. I'm pretty sure my oil "consumption" is mostly related to the trail of oily residue on my passengers side valve cover leading from my PCV valve. I was using 5W30 the first few oil changes and the only difference I noticed when going to the 5w20 was .5MPG increase, which could have been directly due to the synthetic.
I haven't been tracking my oil usage as much as I should. I guess it's time to get more scientific about it! I'll get my crayons and tutu.
Yes, that is intresting.
It's basically saying thinner oils are used to meet fuel economy standards, but then says there is no evidence thinner oils really make a difference.
I do see the point, but I have to ask why Ford would change the spec on our motors years after they were made. They would not affect current year fuel standards Ford had to meet.
My excursion uses more oil than I like, but I can't bring myself to put anything over a 30W oil in as I don't want to affect it's ability to splash onto timing componets.
I just add oil when needed.
I have had 2 V-10's. Neither one used hardly any oil at all. One had 150k on it. The other at 97K before landing on it's head. I did the 5W30 summer/5W20 winter deal. I had concerns about the "sewing machine" oil just looking at it. I lost 1 mpg going to the 30. 12 mpg->11 mpg--at that point-who cares about 1 mpg? Not like anyone ever bought an X for fuel economy
I have had 2 V-10's. Neither one used hardly any oil at all. One had 150k on it. The other at 97K before landing on it's head. I did the 5W30 summer/5W20 winter deal. I had concerns about the "sewing machine" oil just looking at it. I lost 1 mpg going to the 30. 12 mpg->11 mpg--at that point-who cares about 1 mpg? Not like anyone ever bought an X for fuel economy
You got the other end of the spectrum. I burn oil you don't. I swear the molds for these engines must've been flawed. And you are exactly right on the gas mileage part. I got about 14-15mpg hand calculated on our trip. But that is why I have my little Jetta TDI for my work commute.
Oil consumption is also driving me crazy.
I have 2 V10 excursions, 1 uses no noticeable oil in 3000 miles. Other is making me bang my head. 1st oil change it used about 3 quarts in 1500 miles. 2nd oil change about 2 quarts in 3000 miles, and now on track for 2 quarts in 1000 miles.
Whatever it is its fluxuating, so I am buying new PCV grommets now in hopes that may be it.
I too have a oil filmed passenger side valve cover.
I wonder how much oil can accumulate in lower intake manifold before it causes issues? Could that be why we don't see oil burning out tail pipe. Cause its pooling in the lower intake?
Well new PCV should be in today. I'm also replacing the hose that goes from the PCV to the TB. I have a thousand miles until next oil change, granted there is Lucas in there now, but we will see if it makes a difference.