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When does the Van Turbo Light?

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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 09:55 PM
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When does the Van Turbo Light?

Title sums-it up.

Presuming a stock van turbo, about what RPM does the boost come online?

Where I am going with this is that I am focusing on the van turbo and just want to know when the turbo wakes-up so that I can decide on what rear gear to use.

Reason for going with the van turbo is that I want to move away from the wastegate. Also, I know what I am getting into by ditching the WG and am not worried about it as I can easily manage RPM's with the ZF.

Apologies in advance if this information is out there, but am not seeing it.

And while on the topic, is anybody selling the van turbo anymore or do I need to recover one from a bone yard and rebuild it? Years ago some of the vendors carried the van turbo, but I recently hit their sites and am not seeing it available anymore.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 08:43 AM
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That's a vague question to ask because it has no clear cut answer. Every situation will be dependent on ambient conditions, elevation, and fuel delivery. Do you know anyone with a 1995-1997 manual pickup? That will be a great indicator for your location if you can drive that around for a little while.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r
That's a vague question to ask because it has no clear cut answer.
Ah, good point that I should have also clarified not only stock turbo, but stock vehicle

And anybody driving one can freely clarify whether they are at sea level or above and whether they did any modifications


Goal remains to learn when the boost comes online and in all the descriptions of this turbo, have yet to see any stated RPM ranges.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:44 AM
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I ran one for a bit, in my experience it really didn't start making boost until it was far too high in the rpm range for my driving style....like 2500-2600, then it was a beast.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:56 AM
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Found a few threads and it seems that there is a bit of blurring over a van versus hybrid-van turbo.

By hybrid-van turbo I am defining it as starting with the truck turbo, swapping the turbine housing (either 1.15 or 1.0 A/R), and nothing else on the turbine side. Seems that these turbos do not wake up until higher in the RPM band. This makes sense as the truck and van turbos reportedly use different turbine wheels.

Did find a thread where the poster used a van turbo (reported as OE from a van) on a 250 (and possibly 160/100 injectors plus a WW2) where turbo lit around 1600 RPM's (or more specifically, at 59 - 60 mph with an A/T, and am presuming OE tires). For comparison, the same individual reported the OE turbo lit at 55 - 56 mph's.


Naturally, I remain open to inputs from actual observations and corrections to what I am sensing so far.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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When the van turbo craze started it was more encline to help reduce the egts when towing not not so much for faster spool. On my obs with the HPX wheel, and stock 1.15 exhaust housing my turbo lights on the 1900rpm, but I also have mods.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JayTheCPA
T
Reason for going with the van turbo is that I want to move away from the wastegate. Also, I know what I am getting into by ditching the WG and am not worried about it as I can easily manage RPM's with the ZF.
Why not just unplug the wastegate hose from the actuator?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
When the van turbo craze started it was more encline to help reduce the egts when towing not not so much for faster spool. On my obs with the HPX wheel, and stock 1.15 exhaust housing my turbo lights on the 1900rpm, but I also have mods.
Good point here. For everyday driving, the 1.15 housing is normally not the best choice, as low end spool up is pretty much non-existent. For towing applications where it is the norm to be in the upper RPM band, the 1.15 housing works great. It has low back pressure and flows a good amount.

As stated, the exact RPM it will spool will vary. I personally prefer the 1.0 housing over everything when it comes to a daily driver which occasionally tows.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by tjmike
Why not just unplug the wastegate hose from the actuator?
This still leaves me with a smaller turbine wheel and A/R housing.


Originally Posted by Justin@DP-Tuner
For everyday driving, the 1.15 housing is normally not the best choice, . . . I personally prefer the 1.0 housing over everything when it comes to a daily driver which occasionally tows.
I might go this way.

First step is to get an actual van turbo and then will decide whether to keep the 1.15 housing or drop to a 1.0 A/R.

Can decide on differential gears later but wanted to try and get real-world reports of the turbo's sweet spot so that I can put the money elsewhere if it is not looking like a gear change seems necessary.

And getting it to spool is not much of a worry
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JayTheCPA
This still leaves me with a smaller turbine wheel and A/R housing.




I might go this way.

First step is to get an actual van turbo and then will decide whether to keep the 1.15 housing or drop to a 1.0 A/R.

Can decide on differential gears later but wanted to try and get real-world reports of the turbo's sweet spot so that I can put the money elsewhere if it is not looking like a gear change seems necessary.

And getting it to spool is not much of a worry
Where do you plan on getting a 1.00 ex housing for a van turbo? I'm not saying they don't exist, just that I have never seen one. You might know, or maybe you dont. The turbine wheel on van turbo is larger than that of a SD turbo. A 1.00 ex housing, for SD turbo will not fit on a van turbo turbine. Ask me how I know.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 06:42 AM
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Good to know and I suspected that was the case. Not really a factor though as I can just swap the van turbo back out with a modded stock turbo with the 1.0 housing. In any event, am still focusing on the van turbo first.
 
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