On the driver side of my 95 f250 the hinges are bents. This causes the the door to not close all the way and sag. Can I fix this myself or is this a professional matter?

 

Last I checked, aftermarket hinges were around $50 each. Not all that hard to change if you have another set of hands to help hold the door.

 

My experience was that it was a royal pain to get at the bolts that hold the hinge to the cab. I couldn't figure out how to do it with the door closed unless I removed the front fender. And doing it with the door open means you can't put the door where you want it and then tighten the bolts. You have to tighten the hinge, then close the door, then see which way you need to move the hinge, then try to adjust it and repeat the procedure. Unless someone else has a trick...

 

I don't have any trick for adjusting the hinges. But for changing them, if you have something like a pole shed with open rafters, run a rope and come-along down through the window opening. Or use something like an overhead hoist to hold the door while you change one hinge at a time.

 

You can also run a ratchet strap over the top of the truck to hang the door while you are removing / replacing hinges.

 

Not done on my OBS but other things, I roll down the window & create a rope sling & hoist with my engine crane.

You can also cut the pins for just straight removal.

 

did you by chance ever fix this ? looks like the hinges don’t sit flush with the cab did you have to fix that ?

 

That was his complaint. The hinges aren’t flush to the body. It could have also been worn hinge pins and bushings. You aren’t going to get an answer from “The Man.”





You’re best bet is to follow the advise given and buy new hinges.

 

I've also discovered

that the upper cab- side hinge gets pulled away from the cab.
This makes the top of the door stand proud of the cab,
and makes for far more wind noise than is pleasant.

One of these days I'm gonna park next to a tree and wedge a Hi-Lift
against it and fix it good.

One of these days...

t

 

my driver door has the same issue, I am guessng at some point in the life of the door, there was either an over extension toward open, too much forces downward(or upward) with the door open, or some attempts at closing the door with something in the way of the top or bottom, like a boot or things like worksite levels or long yard sticks idk something. Then when the door had worn striker bushings or this induced un-even-ness previously mentioned, the door started to be closed but not completely, which allowed the fatigued metal to vibrate and flex with play at highway speeds and not secured to the cab.
That is what I assume is what happened to mine, an old man who weighed a lot used the door to get in the truck (my gpa) and also getting out, which is when its open, and the striker bushing was worn from incomplete closing or just use(slight misalignment probably eats them from vertical misalignment) then the door vibrates and jiggles, on its pins, giving more wear, sag, and it just compounds. I am securely closing the door each time I shut and I positioned the latch to be slightly lower than (aligned) but slightly higher than full sag, to try and mitigate it getting too much worse and to promote it to lift up a tiny into the latch but not drop so far when opening, which i imagine the larger the drop, the worse the bending over time. Especially if you use the door to get in and out

 

well i bent my door back a little past where it normally should and bent my hinges and put a dent in my door i got a new door and when i went to put it on i notice the hinges don’t sit flush to the can like the passenger side does and when i go to shut the door it hits the fender so i was wondering how to make the hinges sit flush so i can shut the door ..

 

i bought new hinges and they still don’t sit flush to my cab and my for gets suck on the fender when i try to shut the door . i messed up my old door pretty bad

 

replace them with non bent hinges
its the only thing you can really do... the theoretical alternative is to bend the hinges flat, put new pins in them.. but the metal is fatigued. Its just not going to have strength to hold true if you were to do that. They will marginally hold the current bend but further bending or bending back just means its gonna probably drift back out or not be secure in some way. also hard af to make them true again.
like, my door isnt severely worry some as its mostly on one hinge and the door will still shut true, it just technically doesnt line up with the cab and fender becuase the door appears to push out near the hinge and sits slightly lower then the surface of the cab by the bed , but its hardly noticeable but i suppose certain paint jobs/moldings/stripes/lines of any kind may make that worse. Im just silver, and clean silver looks rather consistent even when it isnt. Does your door securely shut on the striker? Like how is the bushing doing? Show us a pic of the striker if you can

 

wait. you said new hinges. not flush to cab.

you probably stressed the metal on the pillar that they mount to and pulled them out so its not true. Take the door off if you can, take a straight edge, see if your pillar sits flat. If it doesnt, you would need to do body work which a shop would prob easily do, i imagine it involves getting it flat, then reinforcing the now-stressed metal either from behind or some kind of bracket that would distribute the forces of the hinge over greater area.im not sure if the fender could be propped out from the body and the angle changed, if so, it could probably be accomplished with a support brace across the now flat area , but then the door would be cocked outward, and you are now limited by the fender adjustment, and sacrificing the "true" ness of the lines from certain perspectives. the latch would prob be shimmable to make it straight and square, but it wouldnt appear flush unless there is that much adustment possible. not sure if doors can be reamed for adjustments either, but basically its not a 2 minute affair whatever is the fix

 

okay yeah i’ll double check tomorrow but pretty sure it’s been pulled out was hoping i could do it myself but sounding like i’m gonna have to take it to a body shop after all . hopefully it won’t cost an arm and a leg to it lol!