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Need quick help, fitting spider down to boots

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  #16  
Old 04-11-2016, 09:02 PM
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Are you having trouble getting the boots to slip all the way on the plenum and the spider?

If so, you can try spraying the inside of the boot with hairspray. It will be slippery to lube at first, then dry tacky to hold in place.

Make sure the boots are over the tubing properly (not folded over or tucked inside anywhere.

I've used a rounded ended piece (like a not-sharp edged screwdriver) to assist in getting the boots started.

Can you get a pic of the boots to show how they are on the spider and plenums? Maybe we can spot something?
 
  #17  
Old 04-11-2016, 09:20 PM
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Even trying to dry fit it I can't get it to match up to the housing. My picture will look just like the one at the beginning of the thread. The inserts are definitely in all the way. I honestly think you have to grind this to make it fit. There is literally no way to make this fit, I've tried every other which way and every ounce of ingenuity I can muster.
 

Last edited by Dude-Ford; 04-11-2016 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Fart noise
  #18  
Old 04-11-2016, 10:15 PM
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Maybe I missed it, but I couldn't see the boots in the first pic

Perhaps also a pic of the inserts in the intake plenum without the boot?

Up to you, just trying to find a way to get you some more help

If you're too frustrated to bother with pics and stuff, no problem. We've all been there at some point
 
  #19  
Old 04-12-2016, 12:54 AM
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I ended up using the boots I already had on it which are better than stockers. At least I can tighten them down and not worry about the bending. I'm still pretty bummed I couldn't make the riffraff boots work. I sure hope all of this is worth the 5psi I've been missing out on!!! I can't attribute my problems to riffraff or ATS, I honestly think my spider is just catiwampous. Oh yeah, the flaky ATS housing paint kept falling in horrible places had to keep vacuuming it up and to get the spider to fit with inserts and stock boots I had to do some sanding but nothing crazy just enough to account for the slight height difference created by the inserts. I mean it must have been 1-2mm not much but enough to create trouble even with stock boots.
 
  #20  
Old 02-02-2017, 06:04 PM
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Ok just making sure
 
  #21  
Old 02-02-2017, 09:53 PM
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I remember sanding the **** out of mine because I was so pissed off. It almost worked.....lol
 
  #22  
Old 02-02-2017, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ranagent
I just got a new set of Riffraff intercooler and plenum boots, also sprung for the plenum inserts and clamps. That and the passenger fuel line are the only things going on at this time. I have the spider in the boots, which I thought was going to be the main battle... The spider doesn't seem to want to go downward far enough, it feels like the spider is contacting the inserts. I've tapped it fairly firmly with a rubber mallet, but it still needs to move downward a good 1/4" Do I need to take this apart and grind down the spider to compensate for the extra thickness of the plenum inserts? I gotta get this together shortly for a trip so any help is appreciated.

install the clamp to the turbo and tighten it down . The boots are rubber and flex 💪.
 
  #23  
Old 02-03-2017, 01:10 PM
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Riff raft boot

I just did the install and had the same issue with the boots being too long. The spider wouldn't connect at the turbo all the way about 1mm too high. The boots are Maxed out on the top and bottom of the spider. I would try connecting to the turbo first. It I have a 2 piece spider where that wouldn't work. Going to trim the boots not my truck later this week for a great fit on a great product.
 
  #24  
Old 02-03-2017, 03:11 PM
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Why doesn't Riffraff sell the correct length intake plenum boots?

I wouldn't be too happy about paying all that money for new boots, and then having to cut them to length. I'd rather just buy boots that are machine cut to fit, rather than deal with my clumsy fingers that are likely to get sliced while trying to trim a large diameter reinforced hose. It isn't like the stock boots vary from engine to engine. The measurement, whatever it is, is known and easily knowable.
 
  #25  
Old 02-03-2017, 03:50 PM
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Yes that's what they should do make the right size probably going to take off 4mm with a hobby knife 1mm sounds like a struggle.
 
  #26  
Old 02-04-2017, 12:53 PM
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even though the Riff Raff boots are tougher to install,I think there less likely to blow off,I never trimmed Ours.
 
  #27  
Old 02-04-2017, 01:03 PM
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I really didn't feel like dealing with all that I was able to loosen all the clamps this morning than connect the red piece first with all the other clamps loose. As someone suggested in this thread. After I tightened the remaining clamps everything seemed good. Yes they are a little harder a could be a few MM shorter while still providing equal blow off resistance. Time to clean the underside and hope no more oil shows.
Also found a trans leak onto the radiator hose from the line which plums into the radiator.... hopefully it lasts until I have the time this week To pull the hose and bring it to a hydraulic shop... not even going to bother calling for it for the price on this one LOL
 
  #28  
Old 02-05-2017, 01:19 AM
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I had the same problem when installing mine what I did was grab a piece of 2x4 and a BFHammer and smacked the top of the spider and it went right in. I'm sure after driving it and heating the hoses up they will be easier next time. I also had a hard time with the passenger side intercooler boot going to the spider.
 
  #29  
Old 02-05-2017, 06:28 AM
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I remember installing these on a buddys truck. No problem installing on mine, but his, had to take off a bit of the foil on IC side, for it to work. No problems with spider worth inserts installed
 
  #30  
Old 11-19-2017, 05:53 PM
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Figured i would give my .02 for any future spider alignment seekers with the ATS housing. Took me 2 days an alot of aggervation to get mine. I got RiffRaff Boots,Plenum inserts and An ATS housing. When installing the spider, i noticed the ATS housing was way off if i dry fit the spider with no boots the alignment was horrible. Hitting passenger side plenum, an it set the driver side atleast .25" ahead of the plenum bore. Used 2 24" prybars to put it on the first night. I was aggervated an just wanted it on. Next day to took it off again with some reason as my housing to spider wasnt sealing well. Noticed the housing clock wasnt to spot on. An if i mated the housing to the spider, without bolts in the spider it bound my brand new RR ported housing wheel. SO, after some consideration an faith.. i step drilled the housing bolts out untill i opened them enough to let me clock, the housing back until the spider sat flush, an my wheel was unbound. Then i bolted it down, also check for cracks in your ATS housing. Mine has hairline fractures, highly unsatisfied for 420bones. POS.. but performs decent once you get it on properly. The surge was killing my turbo.. def. Sounds alot more healthy when i lift to shift now. An main improvement (I give this mostly to the wheel but sure housing helps) The power range thru out the boost is alot smoother. So its worth it, take your time stay calm. it will go on eventually Lol. Goodluck.
 
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