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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Gathering A/C System Information

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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 05:01 AM
  #1  
H311RA151N's Avatar
H311RA151N
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From: Jackson, Wyoming
Gathering A/C System Information

I'm wanting to get the A/C working in my truck. Everything is there and complete minus the belt.

From what I've read we have FS6 compressors. I've pulled mine off as it's free and feels as though it's rebuildable.

I plan to rebuild the compressor myself, I've already bought the Four Seasons compressor gasket/seal kit.

I also plan to purchase an o-ring set, a new evaporator, condenser, schrader valves, caps and convert it over to R134A after thoroughly flushing everything.

I've done this on a couple other vehicles but I don't really know what to expect with this one. Any advice on what to look for, expect, or any input at all is welcome.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 06:26 AM
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Timehunter
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From: Buffalo,Tx.
You pays your money and you takes your chances.
That is what I did on mine awhile back and it is working great!
Don't forget your drier and orifice valve also.
With all you are doing some new hoses are not that much more and will help reduce
contaminants.
Lot of pro and con on flushing.
Just remember,...clean,..clean....clean!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 06:30 PM
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parr4
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Why convert to 134? R12 is readily available on ebay, a little pricey to be sure.
There are some good AC flushing fluids available. Flush the evap and conds in both directions.
Anyway, make sure you start with only 80% of the pressures listed for the system when it was R12. Once the system is up/running some 134 can be added in small amounts to get the pressure gauges happy.
Be sure to change every 0-ring to the 'green' type and use Nylog on the 0-rings and threaded fittings. If the hoses are from 1986, I'd change them. 134 is a higher-pressure refrigerant, therefore old hoses could be a problem area. Change the schrader valves to the new plastic/nylon type. Schrader valves are another 'could be' problem area. New orifice tube and accumulator. Pull a vacuum for a long time....I do 12hr....and if no drop proceed.
I had to change my evaporator due to a hole/holes about 15yrs from '81. Not too bad of a job to replace it.
Hope this helps.
Dave
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 05:43 PM
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H311RA151N
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Thanks Dave. You are very helpful.

Nylog, noted. Didn't know about this stuff.

Seems like I was just about right in what I expected. Doesn't seem like anything too special to get the job done. Thanks again.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 07:12 PM
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parr4
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From: Austin Texas (area)
Originally Posted by H311RA151N
Thanks Dave. You are very helpful.

Nylog, noted. Didn't know about this stuff.

Seems like I was just about right in what I expected. Doesn't seem like anything too special to get the job done. Thanks again.
You are welcome. Glad to help.

Dave
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 08:55 PM
  #6  
H311RA151N's Avatar
H311RA151N
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From: Jackson, Wyoming
Originally Posted by Timehunter
You pays your money and you takes your chances.
That is what I did on mine awhile back and it is working great!
Don't forget your drier and orifice valve also.
With all you are doing some new hoses are not that much more and will help reduce
contaminants.
Lot of pro and con on flushing.
Just remember,...clean,..clean....clean!
Thank you as well. I plan on finding new hoses if and when I do this.
 
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