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AC System Help

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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:06 PM
  #1  
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AC System Help

My compressor crapped out on me right after I bought the truck over two years ago.

I've got a brand new FS10 compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. The shaft seal on the compressor blew out so is it safe to assume that all the refrigerant has leaked out?

My father in law has the tools I need to put the system under vacuum and recharge the system, so I'm hoping I don't really need to recover anything from the system. Its had the bad compressor for 2 years.

By the way its a 94' F350 and the system uses R134a
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 05:08 AM
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My old compressor had the same failure, and the refrigerant had leaked out.

The only way to know if there's still refrigerant in it for sure, is to put a set of gauges on it.

Make sure you flush everything and install new o-rings.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Gervais
My old compressor had the same failure, and the refrigerant had leaked out.

The only way to know if there's still refrigerant in it for sure, is to put a set of gauges on it.

Make sure you flush everything and install new o-rings.
Already have the flush, which O rings am I looking at replacing? Does anyone sell a whole system kit? The only downside to flushing is that it removes all PAG oil and it sucks to do, I don't like the idea of using oil and refrigerant, I'll actually add it each component of italy so it's done the right way.

although I guess that is a good way to flush each component and put it under vacuum to see if each component is good before I put the whole system back together to make it easier to pinpoint a failure in the system.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 07:09 PM
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O-rings are at each line connection. I'm pretty sure most parts stores sell kits, I haven't tried to buy one in a while though.

The main reason I mentioned flushing is because you said the compressor failed. I was assuming you meant a failure other than the shaft seal?

Since you're going to have the system open, you'll need to replace the accumulator, and orifice tube. At this point, flushing is pretty easy to do. When I did mine last year, I flushed the condenser and evaporator on the truck, and the hoses separately.

I didn't trust the amount of oil my reman compressor came with, so I emptied it, and refilled it with the correct amount. The entire system takes 7 oz. I put 5 oz in the compressor, and the rest into the accumulator.

After everything was installed with new o-rings, I pulled a vacuum for 2 hours, then left the gauges on for another hour to make sure I didn't lose any vacuum.

So far, it's worked out well. 38-40 degree vent temps, even when it's in the upper 90s and humid.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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Word of caution on compressors. I just tried a brand new Denso FS-10 brand new compressor that was defective and leaked from the body of the pump where the two halves join. Very obvious that they do not leak test these prior to shipment. My review of Denso compressors is to avoid them at least the aftermarket ones. The OEM ones might be OK. FYI the Denso Compressor I had was made in Korea.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 08:04 PM
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I've never had a problem with a Foir Seasons brand compressor. I always buy new, unless a reman is drastically less. I got mine new for $112 on ebay. Same guy sells in Amazon for $128 and its listed as Four Seasons so I knew it was legit.

My wife has a Toyota Highlander with a Denso compressor and its been a load of trouble. According to worksheet on the vehicle (we bought at 50k) its on its 3rd.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 08:12 PM
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Replace the condenser, once the compressor fails if any debris was produced it will accumulate in the condenser, and there isn't an effective way to clear that in-situ. Many manufacturers won't cover a compressor's warranty unless a new condenser is installed along, this since the old debris can circulate through the system actually causing the new compressor to fail. You can also buy a little box of HNBR O-rings (R134a compatible), them little buggers are nice to have around, so you'll have plenty of each size and more to replace any other o-ring you come by that needs replacing.

When I did my system I bought this box:
Amazon.com: ATD Tools 356 270-Piece HNBR R-12 and R-134a O-Ring Assortment: Automotive Amazon.com: ATD Tools 356 270-Piece HNBR R-12 and R-134a O-Ring Assortment: Automotive
plenty of rings to tackle this project and some more (actually more than you'll probably need in a lifetime unless you run a shop). The whole system uses about 8 of them, just take each ring you'll replace and match it to one in the box. The compressor I used was a Sanden, they're excellent units and used as OEM by many Asian car manufacturers.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 08:17 PM
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Last year I went thru 7, yes 7, Denso compressors for one of our John Deere tractors before I got one that didn't leak between the case halves. It was the last one in North America and looked like it had been on the shelf for about 10 years. Working good so far.............
 
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