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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

DIY alignment

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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 03:32 PM
  #1  
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DIY alignment

I noticed some uneven wear on the front tires consistent with too much toe in so I tried to do a DIY alignment using the string method. The old swing arm bushings were shot so I knew I would have to change those before I attempted and alignment.



The bushings were surprisingly easy to change. Everything went back together without any read difficulty.

On to the alignment: with the strings up and measuring at the rear edge of the front rim and comparing that to the front edge I measured a difference of 1/8". I reduced that to 1/32" on the advice of several sources and the truck drives pretty much exactly like it did before the alignment so that seems to have been a wash. I was also unable to align the steering wheel, so I'm kind of bummed about that.

After all the cursing and busted knuckles I'm ready to say 'screw it' and take it to a shop. I got the bushings in and that was my main concern.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 04:00 PM
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Don't give up... the string method has too much tolerance....I posted this a few days ago:


This methodology is like using toe plates so Google it to understand the principle... this is of course the ultra low buck way I did it.

Tools
  • Two jackstands
  • Jack
  • Two tape measures
  • Two lengths of metal.. each about 24 inches long
  • Masking tape
Procedure
  1. Set the parking rake and chock the rear tires
  2. Crack the front lug nuts
  3. Loosen tie rod adjusting sleeve.
  4. Jack up the truck and place a stand under each I-beam. The alignment must be done with the suspension loaded.
  5. Remove front wheels.
  6. Take the length of rod and mark the center and about nine inches on each side.
  7. Affix the rod with it horizontal and level, its center centered on the disc/drum face. I used a couple of lug nuts to clamp it.
  8. Take both tape measures and string it from the passenger side. I taped the tangs to the rods and on the marks at nine inches fore and aft.
  9. Now compare the measurements to the driver side, fore and aft at nine inches from the center.
  10. Adjust the tie rod sleeve so there is one-eighth inch toe-in.
  11. Tighten the sleeve.
Done.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Don't give up... the string method has too much tolerance....I posted this a few days ago:
Thanks! I'll prob try again after I rest up a bit.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 05:02 PM
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Hio, should you tie off the steering wheel so it's straight? Also do you have a picture of the rod fastened in position? Square rod I assume. Having a hard time visualizing it.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Uni Moe
Hio, should you tie off the steering wheel so it's straight? Also do you have a picture of the rod fastened in position? Square rod I assume. Having a hard time visualizing it.

I backed up my truck and then drive it straight for about 10 feet... then I jacked it straight up. After finishing the DIY alignment, I unbolted and centered the steering wheel.


Yes, square is best. I used some aluminum shelf standards I had laying around... it was stiff, straight, and lightweight. I spanned them horizontally across a couple of the wheel studs and secured them with lug nuts


Again, think of "toe plates" and follow the same methodology.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 05:20 PM
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We used to do the alignment (AKA set the toe) then pull the steering wheel and put it back on in the straight ahead position. If I remember correctly there is only 1 adjusting sleeve, not like cars where you could clamp the steering wheel and adjust the toe using the 2 adjusting sleeves.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GLR
We used to do the alignment (AKA set the toe) then pull the steering wheel and put it back on in the straight ahead position. If I remember correctly there is only 1 adjusting sleeve, not like cars where you could clamp the steering wheel and adjust the toe using the 2 adjusting sleeves.

Your memory is correct... the sleeve is on the passenger side tie rod.


Tidbit.. I swapped to 78 discs and picked up new 78 tie rods by Moog. It's good stuff but I ran out of adjustment and was still toed out... I had to excise about one-half inch from one of them... driver-side inner if I recall correctly.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Don't give up... the string method has too much tolerance....I posted this a few days ago:
Just finished using the method you posted and I got good results. Truck doesn't pull to either side, steering feels much better and the steering wheel is aligned. Boom!

When I got the bars on the drums and took the measurements I had 1/8" toe-out, so that explains why the steering felt a little weird.

Anyway, thanks for the advise. Now it's time for a beer.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 10:24 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Coastal68
Just finished using the method you posted and I got good results. Truck doesn't pull to either side, steering feels much better and the steering wheel is aligned. Boom!

When I got the bars on the drums and took the measurements I had 1/8" toe-out, so that explains why the steering felt a little weird.

Anyway, thanks for the advise. Now it's time for a beer.
Sa-weet.

The 1/8-inch of toe-in is supposed to allow the wheels/tires to splay and accommodate road crown... at least that is the theory.
 
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