Smoke and Lights
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: North Oregon Coast
Smoke and Lights
I am back at working on my issues and was wondering if anyone has any more ideas? When my 99.5 SD is cold ( 50-60 f) it smokes a lot of white horrible smelling smoke for the first 2-4 minutes. If plugged in the block heater it doesn't do it. Also when cold, when you accelerate the SES light comes on until you let off on the throttle then it goes off. Even going 10mph in low rpm? Once engine is up to temp it doesn't do it anymore. It seems to run fine otherwise. I do have 2, 700 CCA Napa batteries that are from 2011 which I plan on replacing next month with Motorcraft Maxx 850 CCA. I have replaced the UVCH, CPS, Fresh Oil and put additives in my fuel. I have even disconnected my DP Tuner F5 and it still does it. I have AE with ford bundle and it seems like my HPOP seems to be working fine as well as buzz test and glow plug. Could it be an injector ( I have stage1 casserly from full force)? What about a sensor not working? It has always smoked since I have had it ( about 3 years) but the SES light issue has only been happening since my IDM was replaced and I had a mechanic work on it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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From: North Oregon Coast
The codes that I got with AE are; P1316, P1247, P0541. When I did the KOEO test I got P0605, P1271, P1275. When I did the buzz test I got P1271 and P1275 but they all sounded the same? When I did the KOER Cylinder Contribution test I got P0266, P0269, P0284 and P0541. I don't remember getting this many the last time I ran the codes. I also used a infrared thermometer to take the temps of the exhaust manifolds and around Cyl #4 it was only around 100-130 while all the rest of the exhaust manifold areas were way higher?
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From: North Oregon Coast
Could that be the cause of the white smoke and the engine light? Should I swap #2 and #4 injectors and see if the temp changes in the #4 cylinder? If #4 wasn't working at all wouldn't it throw a code?
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Hat Creek Ca
Don't know if the codes are specific to each injector, don't think so though. At least if you are in that far you can check UVC wiring ETC for damage/looseness.
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From: North Oregon Coast
Is it possible I put in a bad IDM? Couldn't I test the UVCH without removing the valve covers? From what I read P1316 is an IDM Code, P1247 is Turbo Boost Pressure low, P0541 is because I have the Intake Air heater plugged. When I do the buzz test I get P1271 ( Cyl #1) and P1275 (Cyl #5). I will check all the wiring from the 42 pin connector and from test the IDM before I go pulling the valve covers off. Would I be able to find the turbo boost leak if I built one of those boost leak detectors? How do I go about testing the injectors? I know that I can ohm them thru the valve cover harness and watch them when its running to see if oil is coming out?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Hat Creek Ca
Yes you can check the coil resistance on the injectors from the 42 pin connector (glow plugs as well), but that is just the electrical side. Doesn't tell you anything about the mechanical health.
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From: North Oregon Coast
I assume the only way to test the mechanical side of the injectors is to have them flow tested? Or is there a way to test each one with AE? Any recommendations on what I should start with as far as fixing the issues?
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Hat Creek Ca
I am certainly no expert on this but I believe a flow test is the sure way to test them. I don't see what your mileage on them is but I think @ 180 to 200K miles they can be suspect depending on care and maintenance.
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From: North Oregon Coast
It only has 289k on it but the injectors are aftermarket stage 1,and were bought from Full Force Diesel but I'm not sure when. I wouldn't assume they have more than 100k on them and I know one of them has been replaced within the last 2000 miles. I replaced the IDM when the old one filled with water and that is when the issues started. I may try swapping around some injectors and see if anything changes. I am planning on clearing the codes then driving until the light comes on and rechecking the codes.
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From: North Oregon Coast
I didn't get a code for Inj #2 it just seems to run cold when I take the temp of the exhaust manifold. I could swap out the other solenoids? What is the torx bit that removes the solenoid? I may also just buy another IDM and swap them out since that is when the problems started? Worse case I will have a spare.
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From: North Oregon Coast
I cleared all of the codes and drove it just to get that engine light to flash. The only codes were P1316 (IDM) and P0541. When I did the KOER I got P0476 (exhaust pressure control valve) and P0541. When I did the buzz test got P1271 and P1275.