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Braking, Pulling Hard Left

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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 07:32 AM
  #1  
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Braking, Pulling Hard Left

This problem was happening before my repairs and is still happening after my repairs...

When braking my truck pulls to the left. When I brake hard, it pulls very hard. Last weekend I replaced the front calipers, caliper brackets, and slide pins. I also replaced the rear calipers, slide pins, and pads. I cleaned out the bores for the rear slide pins very well. I had a helper to push the pedal, and I felt as though I bled the brake lines well. The brake fluid was replaced about 8 months ago. What could be causing this?

Just to note, two weeks ago I replaced all four ball joints, front wheel hub assemblies, steering damper, and a few other minor parts. I also had an alignment done.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 07:47 AM
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Right brakes not working for some reason could be one cause for this problem. Do you have an infra-red temp gauge so you can shoot the rotors after a short ride?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 07:47 AM
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it could be left pads are not installed correctly and have less clearance than the right or the right brake line might be kinked or have some kind of restriction in it.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 08:33 AM
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my 93 did this and it would get boiling hot and smoking. Found the lines had collapsed and would not release. Installed new and fixed the problem.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 10:09 AM
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I'm also having a pull to the left under hard braking. Strange thing is my steering wheel doesn't move. Makes me think it's the rear brakes.

Let me know what you find. I'll be tearing into mine in the next couple weeks.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 06:47 AM
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I do not have an infrared temp gauge. I'm pretty sure the left pads are installed correctly. I did not replace any of the lines, but when I bled the new calipers, there didn't seem to be any issue with bleeding the right side. If there was a collapsed line, wouldn't I have noticed when bleeding the calipers?

This morning on my way to work, the brakes worked fine (didn't pull) for the first 20 minutes, but during the last 10 minutes of my drive, it started pulling left when braking. I'm wondering if it's temperature-related.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 07:14 AM
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Agreed. It is time to invest $20 in an infrared temp gun to help diagnose this and many other problems that are heat related. This truck was doing the same thing until I replaced pads w EBC's and the calipers that the NAPA pads had cooked. Does it shimmy during braking and after?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 09:18 AM
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I've noticed that it shimmies sometimes, but not all the time. I'm pretty sure it only shimmies when it's pulling left.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 06:32 AM
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Well, I've driven another 150 miles or so, and no more shimmy, but still pulling left after driving for a while. Not sure why I didn't notice this before, but my brake fluid is low (about half the reservoir is full). I'll fill it and report back.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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Like mentioned earlier your front brake lines are probably collapsing. It can happen intermittently. I would go ahead and replace them both.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 09:52 AM
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I'll go ahead and replace the lines. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2024 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Capt.Schenk
This problem was happening before my repairs and is still happening after my repairs...

When braking my truck pulls to the left. When I brake hard, it pulls very hard. Last weekend I replaced the front calipers, caliper brackets, and slide pins. I also replaced the rear calipers, slide pins, and pads. I cleaned out the bores for the rear slide pins very well. I had a helper to push the pedal, and I felt as though I bled the brake lines well. The brake fluid was replaced about 8 months ago. What could be causing this?

Just to note, two weeks ago I replaced all four ball joints, front wheel hub assemblies, steering damper, and a few other minor parts. I also had an alignment done.

I have a powerstroke, upon changing all the calipers, I had air through system including ABS. Tried bleeding manually plus air vacuum siphon. Neither made a dent on the right side. Zero pedal pressure or brake action upon assistant pumping.
I had to pulse ABS repeatedly using my snapon computer that had a motor override.

Cannot say what other issues. Mine is a total mess. Have to go back to the beginning. Rotors are warped. Never changed hosed. But tires are chopping (out of alignment) and ball joints needed changed months back. Lots of play in the front. Nasty lefty righty wiggle upon brake pressure. Had a deer cause me a hard brake. As far as a hard brake goes, it is totally ON. Premium parts work best.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 06:23 PM
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Isnt there some sort of maintenance mode for the abs that can be activated through forscan? I thought it was there for this reason(some dont do this and have no issues too). Cant remember whats its called exactly. I think you need to engage when bleeding the brakes (technicly).

Also, did you replace the rotors or machine them with the new pads?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 09:19 PM
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Front rotors are the same ones, smooth and had no issues with wear or uneven performance. O'Reilly did not want to turn. I expect parts stores are only wanting to replace these days.

No experience with forscan. Ford Diesel trucks were still not fully OBDII compatible around 1999. Not sure on 2001. I got fluid past ABS pump using a Snapon Verus. Until I did that (repeatedly), was not getting any fluid on bleed steps.

My hot hub is in rear which got new rotors and calipers.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2024 | 07:57 AM
  #15  
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Your ABS unit may be bad...happened to me on my F350 when I was having similar problems. There's a simple way to test them...look up the paper clip test...
 
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