WEIRD BRAKE ISSUE
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
WEIRD BRAKE ISSUE
okay guys, on my 86' I am having some trouble getting the brakes just right. It pulls hard left when you need to make a sudden stop. Its not very noticable when just coming to a normal stop though. Here is what I have done since discovering the issue: New tires, wheel alignment, New hubs/rotors and wheel bearings, new brake pads up front.
Now I didn't put all that money and work into it just to fix that problem, I was going to do all that anyways. I figured that the problem would iron itself out by doing all this work though.
So after all that new stuff it still pulls hard left under a hard stop. What gives? Any clues? calipers? proportionaing valve? fluid? I dunno at this point. Thanks for any help.
Now I didn't put all that money and work into it just to fix that problem, I was going to do all that anyways. I figured that the problem would iron itself out by doing all this work though.
So after all that new stuff it still pulls hard left under a hard stop. What gives? Any clues? calipers? proportionaing valve? fluid? I dunno at this point. Thanks for any help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Since you have an alignment done, they *should* have checked for any parts that have a bit of wear, and reported them to you. Of course, they also may not have gotten everything set properly.
Could just be a caliper that's a bit sticky, either internally or where it slides on the spindle.
Could just be a caliper that's a bit sticky, either internally or where it slides on the spindle.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Also with checking the front calipers, check your rear brakes.
If something as simple as the left rear is adjusted tighter than the right, it can cause a pull to the left. Steering brakes on large equipment uses the same principle.
Also check for worn or cracked pads or shoes, warped drums or rotors, leaking or sticking brake calipers or cylinders, contaminated brake fluid or air in the system. Sticking parking brake cables etc....
If something as simple as the left rear is adjusted tighter than the right, it can cause a pull to the left. Steering brakes on large equipment uses the same principle.
Also check for worn or cracked pads or shoes, warped drums or rotors, leaking or sticking brake calipers or cylinders, contaminated brake fluid or air in the system. Sticking parking brake cables etc....
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Okay, I will check all the ball joints and tie rod ends later this evening. The alignment has a warranty so I can get them to fix it if they didn't warn me about worn out parts. I will keep yall posted.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Check it from a cold start in the morning right after you start out. It may be better cold than after you have driven it a few miles. If one of the calipers is sticking, it will overheat and not stop the truck, so the one that actually is working is the one that is pulling the truck. The one that is overheating because it's stuck is the one that is not doing anything when you press the brake. The calipers sticking is a very common problem with these trucks. The bore behind the piston gets rusty and when you squeeze the pistons back for the new pads to fit, the piston goes right over the rust and sticks.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Check it from a cold start in the morning right after you start out. It may be better cold than after you have driven it a few miles. If one of the calipers is sticking, it will overheat and not stop the truck, so the one that actually is working is the one that is pulling the truck. The one that is overheating because it's stuck is the one that is not doing anything when you press the brake. The calipers sticking is a very common problem with these trucks. The bore behind the piston gets rusty and when you squeeze the pistons back for the new pads to fit, the piston goes right over the rust and sticks.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
OH, i just remembered when they adjusted the alignment they said they were unable to adjust chamber, just toe. Can the chamber be causing this? How do you adust the chamber on these trucks, I haven't really looked at the front suspension much to figure it out yet.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
With the twin I Beam, they would have to use spacers and washers at the A Frame axle pivot bushings. Or have the I beams bent back into shape.
It's not a usual adjustment to say the least.
Usually if the camber or Caster is out, you need new components. New bushings, wheel bearings, Twin I beam pivot bushings, new springs etc... Which they should have spotted. What was the Caster, Camber and Toe specs on your truck? They should have at least given you readings on paper of before and after.
I can give you factory specs on what it should be if you tell me your trucks ride hight, and the axle engineering number stamped on the axles. Most likely D7UA-BB.
Minimum to maximum ride hight stock is: between 2" and 4 3/4". Yours should fall somewhere in the middle, using stock tires. Measure top of axle to bottom of frame etc...
A auto accident can cause it too, why the bending or extra washers are usually used as it cannot be adjusted using normal means.
This should cause the truck to pull all the time though, and not just when the brakes are applied.
It's not a usual adjustment to say the least.
Usually if the camber or Caster is out, you need new components. New bushings, wheel bearings, Twin I beam pivot bushings, new springs etc... Which they should have spotted. What was the Caster, Camber and Toe specs on your truck? They should have at least given you readings on paper of before and after.
I can give you factory specs on what it should be if you tell me your trucks ride hight, and the axle engineering number stamped on the axles. Most likely D7UA-BB.
Minimum to maximum ride hight stock is: between 2" and 4 3/4". Yours should fall somewhere in the middle, using stock tires. Measure top of axle to bottom of frame etc...
A auto accident can cause it too, why the bending or extra washers are usually used as it cannot be adjusted using normal means.
This should cause the truck to pull all the time though, and not just when the brakes are applied.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Your truck is an 86, so it has ball joints. Any place that says they cannot set the camber/caster on a ball joint I-beam suspension, is just plain lazy. It's the king pin I-beams that are a royal pain to set, but they went away (in the F100/F150) after 81.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
So I looked it up in my books, anything after a build date of 8/81 had Ball Joint systems on the F-100/F-150. F-250/F-350 had King Pins longer.
The alignment shop was either lazy or ignorant of which front end system he has on his truck. Unless king pin I-beams have been swapped into his truck, it's got ball joints. Those are completely adjustable.
I'd find another alighnment shop that knows what they are doing, or wants to do the work...
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Cool info, I wasn't aware of the exact build date cutoff for the king pins. All I knew was 80/81 were king pins, and every 82+ (1/2 ton) I have ever seen all had ball joints. I reckon 8/81 would be the cutoff for 81, and anything built after that would have been badged as an 82.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,976
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From: Virginia
Remember it's only pulling when you hit the brakes correct? So if it was a suspension component, it would have to be loose or introduce play when the brakes are applied. Otherwise, I believe it to be a brake problem. Drive it and see if one of the front wheels is hotter than the other.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Okay guys. I am going to go ahead and say I need to rebuild the front end. I know its due for that anyways. I already replaced the hubs and wheel bearings. So, can any of you tell me exactly what parts to get? What I mean is, can you give me a list of parts to go buy, and I can stay after work one day and use the shop to take everything apart and rebuild it.
Here are pictures of the front suspension
[IMG]<a href="http://s1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/?action=view&current=DSC_1731.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/DSC_1731.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
[IMG]<a href="http://s1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/?action=view&current=DSC_1732.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/DSC_1732.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
Here are pictures of the front suspension
[IMG]<a href="http://s1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/?action=view&current=DSC_1731.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/DSC_1731.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
[IMG]<a href="http://s1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/?action=view&current=DSC_1732.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/hollynicholececil/DSC_1732.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]