Cold Start and Battery Voltage
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More Turbo
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Cold Start and Battery Voltage
I just picked up a 2006 F350 with the 6.0. The monitor on the tuner shows 12.7 volts after sitting all night, but only 13.2 after it's running. Also took a bit to start this morning when it was 30 degrees. Battery issue or other?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
30* is pretty cold, maybe plug it in.
12.7v is good for battery voltage at that temp, 13.2v is OK while glow plugs are still on. Should go off after a couple minutes, then you want 13.5v or more, better to be 13.7v after glow plugs are off. Depends on temp how long they stay on, but 2 minutes or less.
Could be other, but 2-5 seconds is about normal. Ford says 30 seconds is a long crank.
Welcome to the site.
12.7v is good for battery voltage at that temp, 13.2v is OK while glow plugs are still on. Should go off after a couple minutes, then you want 13.5v or more, better to be 13.7v after glow plugs are off. Depends on temp how long they stay on, but 2 minutes or less.
Could be other, but 2-5 seconds is about normal. Ford says 30 seconds is a long crank.
Welcome to the site.
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More Turbo
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Thanks. I was afraid to keep it cranking after about 5-6 seconds so stopped and tried again. Second time it fired and ran rough for about 3 seconds and quit. Third time I cycled the glow plugs a couple more times and it fired right up, ran rough for 4 or 5 seconds and then settled down. So I should keep cranking on it? How long is too long? Hope it does OK in the cold I the future, get's well below zero here in the winter and I plan on pulling the snowmobile trailer with it.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
Thanks. I was afraid to keep it cranking after about 5-6 seconds so stopped and tried again. Second time it fired and ran rough for about 3 seconds and quit. Third time I cycled the glow plugs a couple more times and it fired right up, ran rough for 4 or 5 seconds and then settled down. So I should keep cranking on it? How long is too long? Hope it does OK in the cold I the future, get's well below zero here in the winter and I plan on pulling the snowmobile trailer with it.
I also wonder if you have two or more glow plugs now working. Any codes for those?
Mine will pop off in 30* like nothing not plugged in, and #8 glow plug is dead.
You might have some stiction going on as well.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Try parking the truck nose down, that keeps the oil in the reservoir a little better. Seals on the HPOP may be loosing a little, parking nose down may help a little on having to not start-restart.
The glow plugs run about two minutes, but the wait to start light goes out after about 10 seconds, its still heating the plugs. Watch the volt meter go from 12.x -13.x once they turn off and the trucks running. These trucks start a little rough, when cold even rougher. You could wait just a little longer before cranking the starter, but those plugs do draw some voltage.
Run full synthetic 5w-40 to give it a better and smoother start. Plug the truck in if possible a few hours before starting it, some use a timer.
30* still... must be Alaska?
The glow plugs run about two minutes, but the wait to start light goes out after about 10 seconds, its still heating the plugs. Watch the volt meter go from 12.x -13.x once they turn off and the trucks running. These trucks start a little rough, when cold even rougher. You could wait just a little longer before cranking the starter, but those plugs do draw some voltage.
Run full synthetic 5w-40 to give it a better and smoother start. Plug the truck in if possible a few hours before starting it, some use a timer.
30* still... must be Alaska?
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More Turbo
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Yes Alaska. Voltage never goes over 13.2 even after running for a long time. No codes on the tuner. (Mini maxx). Would it show a code in diagnostics if a glow plug was out? I'm new to all this. Thanks!!!
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
yes. Glow plug code is like P0670-P0678.
Clean all the battery cable grounds where they attach to the truck. Passenger side, follow the negative to the body and frame and block. Drivers side to the frame and the body at the back to the block. Clean them down to bare metal, that should increase the voltage to near 13.5v.
The when possible, park it nose down to try that and consider using a thinner oil, like the 5w-40 I mentioned. Don't crank more than about 30 seconds at a time, less shouldn't hurt it.
Once again, welcome to the site and good luck!
Clean all the battery cable grounds where they attach to the truck. Passenger side, follow the negative to the body and frame and block. Drivers side to the frame and the body at the back to the block. Clean them down to bare metal, that should increase the voltage to near 13.5v.
The when possible, park it nose down to try that and consider using a thinner oil, like the 5w-40 I mentioned. Don't crank more than about 30 seconds at a time, less shouldn't hurt it.
Once again, welcome to the site and good luck!
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Certified Thread Hijacker
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Sounds like 15W40 oil to me. Possible FICM issue with the low voltage.
Anything under 13.8 volts after GP cycle would be unacceptable to me.
Verify oil viscosity.
Load test each battery separately.
Verify FICM Main volts, KOEO, Cranking and KOER
Josh
Anything under 13.8 volts after GP cycle would be unacceptable to me.
Verify oil viscosity.
Load test each battery separately.
Verify FICM Main volts, KOEO, Cranking and KOER
Josh
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More Turbo
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5W40. Would I be getting any codes if it was the FICM? I'm going to let it sit outside tonight and try again in the morning to see how it does. So are the poosibilities besides FICM batteries or alternator perhaps?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
You'd need a device to read live data, like a Scan Gauge or Torque Pro to see the FICM voltage when then key is first turned on (KOEO) and the engine is off. Then while cranking and then running.
You do have a tuner, it may read that data. maybe a little research to see if it will.
You do have a tuner, it may read that data. maybe a little research to see if it will.
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More Turbo
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Looks like the tuner that is installed will return DTC's on a huge list of issues. If there was a problem with the FICM I assume an error code would be returned? https://hsperformance.com/dtc-list/
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Yes, true. But we are talking low voltage, your talking failure. According to Ford, low voltage output is anything less than 45v at any time. You'll get a fault code for failure, or non-communications, those kinds of things...
Watch it for voltage of 45v or less during KOEO, cranking or running to avoid poor performance... and rough starts, missing and horrible mileage.
Watch it for voltage of 45v or less during KOEO, cranking or running to avoid poor performance... and rough starts, missing and horrible mileage.
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Plugged it in over night. It was 30degrees again this morning. Let the glow plugs warm for longer this time also. It fired instantly and didn't run rough at all after firing up. Going to have the batteries tested and see if I can't get my running volts up if they have a problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Foothills, CA
And while you mentioned alternator, I don't thing we talked much about that. Do you know what alternator you have? Most of our trucks came stock with a 110A Alternator which is too small. You should have at least a 140A, which was an available option for our trucks or was also the upper alternator in a dual Alt. system. And there are numerous larger options also...
I think an Alternator upgrade should be on your to-do list...
I think an Alternator upgrade should be on your to-do list...