When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1997 F-350 4x4 Crew cab 7.3 Tried to get the front hub off no luck. Looked on youtube, searched this site, no luck looked at all the confusing info on pirate4x4 Dieselstop, no luck.
I have a cracked rotor that I need to replace. Searched all the parts stores in Phoenix for the right socket.
Bought 2 lock nut sockets no luck. What am I missing? anybody here know what I need to do this?
frustrating to say the least. Is there a video or pictures of the steps I need to take that is vehicle specific? Any help much appreciated.
It's a four prong socket you are looking for. You will need to take off the locking hub, remove the clip holding the inner part of the locking hub, then use the four prong socket to get the first nut off. After you get the first nut off, you need to take the washer off, then the second nut. After taking the caliper off, you should be able to pull the hub and rotor off. It should be about a 2 1/2" four prong socket. Hope this helps.
It's a four prong socket you are looking for. You will need to take off the locking hub, remove the clip holding the inner part of the locking hub, then use the four prong socket to get the first nut off. After you get the first nut off, you need to take the washer off, then the second nut. After taking the caliper off, you should be able to pull the hub and rotor off. It should be about a 2 1/2" four prong socket. Hope this helps.
Red
If he has automatic hubs, it won't be the spanner nut with the four notches. It will be a hex nut. The spanner nut with the four notches is for manual hubs.
I have a 95 f250 4x4 and I just did rotors and pads. People at the auto parts store said it was a four prong tool I needed. They were wrong. Mine has a single 2.5 inch nut and a half moon clip to lock the nut. I bought a set of axle nut sockets from Napa. Hope this helps.
shows D85T-1197-A for the tool. can't seem to find that anywhere
Thanks Red, I just might have the correct socket from Napa. I think I missed the lock ring just not sure, hard to tell from the exploded view. Thank you I have a look and let you know. Not sure when I can get a look at it spent all weekend on it Dang!
It probably had auto hubs at one time, and some one put the manual hubs on it. You should change the spindle nuts to the spanner nuts with the lock ring. It will mess up the springs in the hubs with that style nut in there.
This threw me for a loop too when I did ball joints on my truck recently. To my knowledge are two different style axle nuts, four prong and rounded hex, and different sizes for the various axle types, Dana 44, 50, 60. I believe the correct sizes for the OBS F350 Dana 60 are: 2 1/2 inch four prong for the manual hubs, 2 3/4 inch rounded hex for the automatic hubs (someone correct me if I am wrong). What was really confusing for me is my truck had manual hubs, but it had the automatic hub nubs. The truck had the auto hubs from the factory, but the original owner swapped them for manual hubs apparently without swapping the nuts.
Here are the two different style sockets:
Manual hub socket on left, auto hub socket on right
Here's a close up up the sizes:
Here's the auto hub not with c-shaped lock ring:
Got to make sure the lock tab on the lock ring is not broken and is inserted properly in the slots
You torque the inner nut to the correct spec, put on the middle lock right with the tab inserted, then torque the outer nut against the inner nut and lock ring assembly.
My F150 with the Dana 44 was the same way, had the manual hubs but ended up having the axle nuts that typically go with the automatic hubs.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.