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yeah come winter we basically leave it in 4wd from Nov thru beginning of March. Then there's mud till middle of April and then it stays in 2WD for the most part through summer and fall till snow hits. I really don't mind leaving it in Lock mode but didn't know if that does any wear/tear on the front diff. Plus since we decided we're keeping the rig long term I want to start going through and fixing all the little bugs to get it 100%. Apart from a diesel Excursion there's really no other vehicle my wife likes enough to replace it with and honestly after cutting the fenders up I would rather keep this rig and someday either put a new V10 in it or transplant a cummins in it. It burns oil now so might not be too many years till a new engine is in it.
What weight & type of oil are you using ?? How much oil is it burning ?? Is it visible or just notice when checking the dip stick ?? I want to see the hacked fenders So your running MT37s W/O a lift ?? I run them as well on 1 of the Xs, with a 4" SD lift .
yeah come winter we basically leave it in 4wd from Nov thru beginning of March. Then there's mud till middle of April and then it stays in 2WD for the most part through summer and fall till snow hits. I really don't mind leaving it in Lock mode but didn't know if that does any wear/tear on the front diff. Plus since we decided we're keeping the rig long term I want to start going through and fixing all the little bugs to get it 100%. Apart from a diesel Excursion there's really no other vehicle my wife likes enough to replace it with and honestly after cutting the fenders up I would rather keep this rig and someday either put a new V10 in it or transplant a cummins in it. It burns oil now so might not be too many years till a new engine is in it.
Shame you can't get the v 10 out of my flipped rig. 90K miles--maybe 1/4 qt or so between oil changes, no clicks, ticks-ran beautifully. Unfortunately it is, I presume, in a salvage yard in MT.
What weight & type of oil are you using ?? How much oil is it burning ?? Is it visible or just notice when checking the dip stick ?? I want to see the hacked fenders So your running MT37s W/O a lift ?? I run them as well on 1 of the Xs, with a 4" SD lift .
Yup running Bushwacker cutout fender flares with 37X12.5R16.5 MTs. I have a 2" leveling shackle kit up front and that solved the little rubbing i had. I didn't want to lift it as I prefer my rigs to have a lower center of gravity. we do a lot of dirt road driving (some kinda quick) and i don't like being up high in an SUV. The 37s fit with plenty of room to spare but i did need some spacers to get them out a few inches. I really like the ride now. With the extra sidewall height and the stock springs it absorbs the ruts, washes, rocks etc. perfectly. Very little vibration in the cab. I'm still at work (working late at the shop today) but I'll try to take some pics of it when i get home if there's enough light, if not then tomorrow.
No it blows through oil. I often find myself checking the dipstick and seeing no oil on it oops. I don't really pay attention to how much we drive but I'd guess i put around 1gal of oil into it about 2 times a year. It doesn't leak or drip that i can tell but then again I live on a ranch so there's no cement anywhere around (other than inside my shop) so it's hard to see a drip in the dirt. BUT I didn't see any in the snow this winter so yeah it's all going into the engine and being burned up. I'm guessing it had something to do with a blown plug that may or may not have had some chips score the cylinder? I don't know they were aluminum chips so i'd be surprised if they could actually damage the cylinder walls. it's got about 200K on the engine so it could just be worn out. I use 10W30.
here's a quick pic this morning. drove out into the field to clean the mud off the tires.
What is all that sheet on the ground It was 85Deg here yesterday The X looks great,Nice job to run 37s. With your use I'd do 2 things (I have a ranch X as well) I'd lock the front hubs in & forget a bout it As far as the oil goes, I would add 2 quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer to my next oil change & 1 quart there after ( I would also run full synthetic oil). If the oil burning did not stop, Next change I'd use the Lucas STOP oil burning treatment, whatever it is called in the max recommended amount for the V-10s oil capacity. I know this will differ from MOST other options on this board BUT that is mine.
WHY ??? Because I have used the oil stabilizer & full syn oil in every eng,diff,& trans for over 20 years. I have never had a lubbrcation failure of any kind & probably should have more than once I KNOW for a fact it prevents dry starts Even if the eng sits for Months or LONGER !! It can help a lot on the oil consumption & quite possibly save your eng in those those times you run it low on oil . SO unless your just wanting to kill the thing this could get you years & years of your current use out of it on the very cheap If for some strange reason the oil loss does not almost totally stop, the full syn last years in the keep adding method & is so much better all a round. You can find NAPA full syn oil for $3.50 a quart 4 or 5 times a year on sale I buy cases that way & it's less than dino !!
PS: If you had a major oil leak ( say rear main seal) you can tell EVEN in the dirt or field. Ask me how I know
What is all that sheet on the ground It was 85Deg here yesterday The X looks great,Nice job to run 37s. With your use I'd do 2 things (I have a ranch X as well) I'd lock the front hubs in & forget a bout it As far as the oil goes, I would add 2 quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer to my next oil change & 1 quart there after ( I would also run full synthetic oil). If the oil burning did not stop, Next change I'd use the Lucas STOP oil burning treatment, whatever it is called in the max recommended amount for the V-10s oil capacity. I know this will differ from MOST other options on this board BUT that is mine.
WHY ??? Because I have used the oil stabilizer & full syn oil in every eng,diff,& trans for over 20 years. I have never had a lubbrcation failure of any kind & probably should have more than once I KNOW for a fact it prevents dry starts Even if the eng sits for Months or LONGER !! It can help a lot on the oil consumption & quite possibly save your eng in those those times you run it low on oil . SO unless your just wanting to kill the thing this could get you years & years of your current use out of it on the very cheap If for some strange reason the oil loss does not almost totally stop, the full syn last years in the keep adding method & is so much better all a round. You can find NAPA full syn oil for $3.50 a quart 4 or 5 times a year on sale I buy cases that way & it's less than dino !!
PS: If you had a major oil leak ( say rear main seal) you can tell EVEN in the dirt or field. Ask me how I know
I'm going to take your advice and try the oil stabilizer. I'm probably due for an oil change anyway. Thanks for the tip. At this point i figured the engine was on it's way out anyway so I'm all for trying something new. what weight of oil do you use?
I'm going to take your advice and try the oil stabilizer. I'm probably due for an oil change anyway. Thanks for the tip. At this point i figured the engine was on it's way out anyway so I'm all for trying something new. what weight of oil do you use?
In my hot weather I use mostly 15-50 on any engine over 100K BUT from reading about the modulars here on FTE I've moved to 10-30 on the V-10. BOTH Full Syn. I'm a little nervous with 10-30 May - Oct But I think I'll go for it this Summer. I use 2 Xs a lot & neither use a 1qt of oil between 10-12K mile changes. 1 has 100K & the other 199K on the ticker
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