AC help
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
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From: Seneca, SC
AC help
Hi y'all,
I have a 92 F350 Crew Cab Dually with the lovely 7.3L IDI. I've had it for about 4 years and the AC has never worked. I had it charged and checked 2 years ago, and it's blowing freon out of the blow off valve, which isn't actually part of the compressor. It's on a metal plate that bolts to the compressor, where the lines come in and out of the compressor to the rest of the AC system. I can't find that plate anywhere. Please help! I'm tired of burning up when it's gets hot outside. Thanks.
I have a 92 F350 Crew Cab Dually with the lovely 7.3L IDI. I've had it for about 4 years and the AC has never worked. I had it charged and checked 2 years ago, and it's blowing freon out of the blow off valve, which isn't actually part of the compressor. It's on a metal plate that bolts to the compressor, where the lines come in and out of the compressor to the rest of the AC system. I can't find that plate anywhere. Please help! I'm tired of burning up when it's gets hot outside. Thanks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 12
From: Ford, WA
Was it losing refrigerant out of the valve while sitting? Or while the a/c-a/c compressor was running? If while sitting the valve is shot..might be able to find one in a junkyard.. many 80's and early 90's ford's with the FS6 compressor have them. If while running you may have a blocked condenser, or orifice tube, causing the discharge pressure to go sky high and the blow off valve is dumping refrigerant..if running r134a I would suggest replacing that valve with a high pressure cut off switch. Would just turn off the compressor in a high pressure situation.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
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From: Seneca, SC
It would take about 20 seconds after the compressor kicked in before it starts leaking. If anyone remembers where to find that valve, I'd appreciate it. Also, please tell me more about this high pressure switch.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,914
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From: Thomaston
I had the availability of the plates backwards.
Buy 1990 Ford F-250 Parts | FordParts.com
the plate is part # yf1264
the vale is f65z19d644a
the switch is on the receiver dryer and is available at local parts stores there are two one for r12 and one for r134. even though my system has been converted it still uses r12 parts.
Buy 1990 Ford F-250 Parts | FordParts.com
the plate is part # yf1264
the vale is f65z19d644a
the switch is on the receiver dryer and is available at local parts stores there are two one for r12 and one for r134. even though my system has been converted it still uses r12 parts.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 12
From: Ford, WA
Did you have gauges hooked up to the AC system to check the high side pressure? If there is some sort of blockage in the condenser a new valve may not fix the problem..but since the valve is suspect, and reasonably priced for a new one, replace it...if you're having an AC shop recharge your system, have them flush it, if not already done, and replace orifice tube ($2 part) if not already done before vacuuming and recharging the system. I would also replace the accumulator as well if it's old. Tell them the problem you are having so they can diagnose and repair it correctly..
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
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From: Seneca, SC
Did you have gauges hooked up to the AC system to check the high side pressure? If there is some sort of blockage in the condenser a new valve may not fix the problem..but since the valve is suspect, and reasonably priced for a new one, replace it...if you're having an AC shop recharge your system, have them flush it, if not already done, and replace orifice tube ($2 part) if not already done before vacuuming and recharging the system. I would also replace the accumulator as well if it's old. Tell them the problem you are having so they can diagnose and repair it correctly..
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Thomaston
That depends on several things: Do you have A/C knowledge and know how the system should operated and what pressures, how much to service? Do you have a set of gauges and a vacuum pump? If no then you maybe better off to pay some one. A/C work can get expensive real fast.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 12
From: Ford, WA
The orifice tube is cheap at around $2.00.. the accumulator should run $25-$50, a new condenser if needed maybe $80-$200 depending on where you find them..all of these you can replace yourself.. accumulator and orifice tube need to be replaced after flushing.. condenser if it's clogged might be fixed by flushing..I don't know if they still used the old fin & tube condenser in 92.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Seneca, SC
The orifice tube is cheap at around $2.00.. the accumulator should run $25-$50, a new condenser if needed maybe $80-$200 depending on where you find them..all of these you can replace yourself.. accumulator and orifice tube need to be replaced after flushing.. condenser if it's clogged might be fixed by flushing..I don't know if they still used the old fin & tube condenser in 92.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
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The orifice tube is cheap at around $2.00.. the accumulator should run $25-$50, a new condenser if needed maybe $80-$200 depending on where you find them..all of these you can replace yourself.. accumulator and orifice tube need to be replaced after flushing.. condenser if it's clogged might be fixed by flushing..I don't know if they still used the old fin & tube condenser in 92.
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