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Right, I have the steel rail mount version and it said ball forward for LB and to the rear for SB trucks. I have an extended pin box also, so I mounted the adapter with the hole behind the pin to shorten it for bed side clearance. I made a nearly 90 degree turn 2 weeks ago and had no clearance problems with cab or bed. I had clearance issues with both cab and bed with the Reese 16K at about 75 degrees.
I have a longbed..... so mine IS more forward. I just followed directions that came with the hitch for LB/SB.
Just a heads up,
I got the Andersen hitch today but it came with installation instructions for a rail mount. Those instructions state to position the hitch one direction for long bed and the other for short bed. I called Andersen to get the correct manual and asked about mounting the hitch with the ball forward or behind the gooseneck ball. He said the #3220 only mounts with top ball aft of the gooseneck ball, for clearance issues you rotate the kingpin coupler 180*. Here are the current install instructions according to the rep. The hitch also is marked with an arrow pointing towards the tailgate.
I ended up returning the Andersen, it wouldn't go low enough. I knew it was going to be close but I thought that raising the pin box would give me enough, I was still just over 3* rake with the truck sitting level. I had 8" to the bed rails so there was plenty of room to go down but hitch wouldn't allow it. Truck has stock suspension and 285-16 tires. It's odd that most 5th hitches adjust from 13-17" off the bed and the Andersen starts at 16.5".
I spoke to several Andersen reps, they were great but basically told me I was SOL as most of the fitment problems they had were the hitch wasn't tall enough.
One other thing I noticed was the ball is aluminum and from the few times I hitched and unhitched I could see marks on the ball. With the funnel being steel this would be something to keep an eye on.
I ended up returning the Andersen, it wouldn't go low enough. I knew it was going to be close but I thought that raising the pin box would give me enough, I was still just over 3* rake with the truck sitting level. I had 8" to the bed rails so there was plenty of room to go down but hitch wouldn't allow it. Truck has stock suspension and 285-16 tires. It's odd that most 5th hitches adjust from 13-17" off the bed and the Andersen starts at 16.5"
While I agree that I wish it could go lower, my previous Reese 16K was the only one I found that would go as low at 13 3/4". The B&W hitches start at 16.5 to 17" and they are one of the most popular. With the Reese and some changes to pin box and suspension, I was able to get my fifth wheel about 1" nose down. With the Andersen, I am maybe 1.5-2" nose high, but since I started at 4" nose high with my F350, I am okay with it.
I ended up returning the Andersen, it wouldn't go low enough. I knew it was going to be close but I thought that raising the pin box would give me enough, I was still just over 3* rake with the truck sitting level. I had 8" to the bed rails so there was plenty of room to go down but hitch wouldn't allow it. Truck has stock suspension and 285-16 tires. It's odd that most 5th hitches adjust from 13-17" off the bed and the Andersen starts at 16.5".
I spoke to several Andersen reps, they were great but basically told me I was SOL as most of the fitment problems they had were the hitch wasn't tall enough.
One other thing I noticed was the ball is aluminum and from the few times I hitched and unhitched I could see marks on the ball. With the funnel being steel this would be something to keep an eye on.
did you consider flipping the springs to the top of the axle? depending on the cost of a different hitch, that might be a cost effective solution.
Just a heads up,
I got the Andersen hitch today but it came with installation instructions for a rail mount. Those instructions state to position the hitch one direction for long bed and the other for short bed. I called Andersen to get the correct manual and asked about mounting the hitch with the ball forward or behind the gooseneck ball. He said the #3220 only mounts with top ball aft of the gooseneck ball, for clearance issues you rotate the kingpin coupler 180*. Here are the current install instructions according to the rep. The hitch also is marked with an arrow pointing towards the tailgate.
Starting my second year with the Andersen aluminum hitch. Love everything so far and it tows great. The 32 pound weight is also great when you get to your 60s.
I see much concern about being an inch or two high or low on a fifth wheel. I'm going to get my first fifth wheel next spring. It seems to me that given a 40' trailer, 1-2" makes no real difference. The vertical force due to braking or acceleration would be negligible at that angle. My main concern is maintaining at least 6" above my rails to avoid hitting them.
I see much concern about being an inch or two high or low on a fifth wheel. I'm going to get my first fifth wheel next spring. It seems to me that given a 40' trailer, 1-2" makes no real difference. The vertical force due to braking or acceleration would be negligible at that angle. My main concern is maintaining at least 6" above my rails to avoid hitting them.
Perhaps I'm missing something. Thoughts?
The ball does move up and down to accomotade different heights. I've have my truck and trailer at some seriously different angles as my driveway is fairly steep. I haven't come close to hitting the bed rails yet. Im sure its possible, but at the angles Im at backing into my driveway I can see you'd have to be at a really hard angle to smash bed the bed.
1-2" isn't a problem, mine was 4" and that was a problem. 3* nose up max recommended is what I found. This only seems to be a problem with older 5th wheels, newer models sit higher.
I see much concern about being an inch or two high or low on a fifth wheel. I'm going to get my first fifth wheel next spring. It seems to me that given a 40' trailer, 1-2" makes no real difference. The vertical force due to braking or acceleration would be negligible at that angle. My main concern is maintaining at least 6" above my rails to avoid hitting them.
Perhaps I'm missing something. Thoughts?
Getting it level has more to do with weight distribution at the axles than anything else. As you go nose down more weight goes to the front trailer axle and the opposite happens as you go nose up.
This is much more of a problem with torsion axles than springs, though.
With torsion axles it has to be pretty much dead level or you are going to overload one of the axles for sure.
I ended up returning the Andersen, it wouldn't go low enough.
Any experiences with the 2017's? I seem to sit higher than nearly everyone in mine; and posts like these make me hesitate when considering trying Anderson.
No experience on the 2017, but my 2000 sits pretty high and the Andersen is set to about the middle of the slide bar/ball. It can adjust quite low and high, but each situation is going to be different I suppose.
If you are thinking about trying the Andersen, you can get it from Amazon and return it with free shipping if it doesn't work out. Maybe call then and speak to them, their customer service has been great so far.
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