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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 07:33 AM
  #46  
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Correct me if I'm wrong: It looks like this design effectively moves the pin back a few inches, toward the rear bumper. Is this correct?

If so, I could see where that would give short bed trucks more cab clearance.

But, that moves the pin weight back, putting more load on the rear axle. Which could be not so good.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 12:20 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by santafedave
Necessity is the mother of all invention! The pull rite system looks pretty easy and light. $599.99 on amazon makes it cheaper than the Anderson hitch. Does it come with the 5 mil warranty that Anderson has?
Anderson is $520 shipped.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 06:28 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Ginther
Correct me if I'm wrong: It looks like this design effectively moves the pin back a few inches, toward the rear bumper. Is this correct?

If so, I could see where that would give short bed trucks more cab clearance.

But, that moves the pin weight back, putting more load on the rear axle. Which could be not so good.
Although I know folks can really get obsessive about placement, I have a hunch, if you ran some numbers, a couple of inches doesn't do much.

Steve
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 06:39 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Ginther
Correct me if I'm wrong: It looks like this design effectively moves the pin back a few inches, toward the rear bumper. Is this correct?

If so, I could see where that would give short bed trucks more cab clearance.

But, that moves the pin weight back, putting more load on the rear axle. Which could be not so good.

In my bed it actually sits just forward of the rear axle. It's hard to tell from the angle of the picture. I've got a long bed so I don't have any clearance issues but a short bed might. If that were the case you could flip the hitch around and it would be an inch or two behind the axle.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 10:29 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Ginther
Correct me if I'm wrong: It looks like this design effectively moves the pin back a few inches, toward the rear bumper. Is this correct?

If so, I could see where that would give short bed trucks more cab clearance.

But, that moves the pin weight back, putting more load on the rear axle. Which could be not so good.
That is the situation I have with my 5th wheel. The neck is short. So, I wanted the hitch back as far practical. I set it back a bit further when installing the rails. I haven't scaled it out my camper, however dry weight is around 4,000 pounds.

In that situation of a semi tractor/trailer it is making sure the weights are right on. Generally 12,000 pounds on a steer axle. 34,000 pounds on a set of drive tandems and so forth.
Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Although I know folks can really get obsessive about placement, I have a hunch, if you ran some numbers, a couple of inches doesn't do much.

Steve
On a semi truck the 5th wheel slides back and forth. Generally each notch which runs from 2" to 2 1/2" runs about 250 to 500 pounds. On a pickup pulling a camper I am guessing it would run about 100 pounds an inch.

The main thing is keeping it ahead of the rear axle. Moving it ahead puts weight up on the steer axle which on a really heave 5th wheel is a must, IMO.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 10:44 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by cferguson77
I didn't mean for this to turn into the discussion it did. But after speaking to a Captian for the Idaho State Police (my neighbor) and doing a little research I've found it depends on the state you're in. Idaho for instance doesn't require them, but California does. So in a GN situation you would need to know the state laws that you'll be traveling through.
From the federal side, where I do most of my playing. A 5th wheel and kingpin setup does not require chains. There is a positive locking of the jaws. On a ball or pintle setup chains and cable become a requirement.

That requirement shows up both state and federal law. 49 CFR 393.70(c and d) talks of safety devices in the event of "tow bar failure." 393.70(b) talks about 5th wheels.

Which, while the codes is not enforceable to a camper running up and down the road playing tourist, you may fall under state laws. If I were to run with any sort of ball connection I would be using chains. I'd also make sure the breakaway switch was working. If the worst case where I were to lose a trailer I would the binders to bind and not have a runaway running into a family head-on.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 11:48 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by cferguson77
The adapter bolts on pretty tight. I wasn't there when they bolted it on there.
Check the allen screws and bolts occasionally. The bolts should be 50-60 lbs if I remember from other forums. I just got one but haven't used it yet.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 11:55 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by santafedave
Necessity is the mother of all invention! The pull rite system looks pretty easy and light. $599.99 on amazon makes it cheaper than the Anderson hitch. Does it come with the 5 mil warranty that Anderson has?
Actually, the rail mount version of the Andersen Ultimate lists at $449 and I got mine for $399.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 12:01 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by jetjockey99
where do you hook your safety chains? I don't see any in your pictures. That is now a ball hitch and Federal law mandates chains.
Rails have extra slots and I will be using these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...e/RP50223.html

There are also some safety chain loops that fit the pucks on factory prep models.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 12:05 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Although I know folks can really get obsessive about placement, I have a hunch, if you ran some numbers, a couple of inches doesn't do much.

Steve
I read a post somewhere of someone who weighed in both positions and there wasn't much difference because the weight is transferred to the base of the Andersen Ultimate and distributed evenly. I have a short bed and will position with the ball to the rear. I also have an extended pin which caused the pin box mounting wings to almost hit the side of the bed with my Reese 16K hitch. If still a problem with the Andersen, the adapter can be reversed with the hole to the rear, effectively shortening the pin box.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 12:15 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
Rails have extra slots and I will be using these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...e/RP50223.html

There are also some safety chain loops that fit the pucks on factory prep models.

Where do you attach the chain on the pin box with and Andersen Ultimate? I like the rail adapters just can't figure out where the chains would attach on the other end.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Although I know folks can really get obsessive about placement, I have a hunch, if you ran some numbers, a couple of inches doesn't do much.

Steve
you are correct
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 01:38 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by cferguson77
Where do you attach the chain on the pin box with and Andersen Ultimate? I like the rail adapters just can't figure out where the chains would attach on the other end.
The Andersen safety chain kit (incorrect kit pictured earlier) replaces the two bolts that hold the adapter to the pin with two bolts that have eyelets for the chains.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 02:47 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs




The Andersen safety chain kit (incorrect kit pictured earlier) replaces the two bolts that hold the adapter to the pin with two bolts that have eyelets for the chains.
That makes me feel better about this setup.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 03:02 PM
  #60  
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FWIW, I have forgotten (ONCE!) to lock the ball to the hitch on my Anderson and drove over 200 miles to my destination .... it never gave me a hint of unhooking! Shhhh- don't tell my wife! I have never forgotten again, I'll tell you..... (Drove down I-95 from Baltimore area for about 200 miles - the road was NOT in perfect shape either...)

But it also tells me with it locked I'll never need safety chains!
 
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