AC Conversion Questions
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Ordered that switch, the parts started coming in the other day. The condenser got here to day and the box looked like it had been kicked, and there were a couple holes in it. Filed for a refund with RockAuto. (Just came in, full refund, looks like I don't even have to send the bad one back)
There were also a fair number of bent fins and the black paint was reeeeeeal crappy, like drunk redneck rattle can bad.
It was an "ADI/PRO" Brand, there is an option for "Other Manufacturer" on Rock Auto but I don't know if this would be any better. The Motorcraft one is $300+
There are a couple non Rock Auto vendors with Spectra Premium and KoolVue brands. Any opinions?
There were also a fair number of bent fins and the black paint was reeeeeeal crappy, like drunk redneck rattle can bad.
It was an "ADI/PRO" Brand, there is an option for "Other Manufacturer" on Rock Auto but I don't know if this would be any better. The Motorcraft one is $300+
There are a couple non Rock Auto vendors with Spectra Premium and KoolVue brands. Any opinions?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,693
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From: Menifee, CA
Ordered that switch, the parts started coming in the other day. The condenser got here to day and the box looked like it had been kicked, and there were a couple holes in it. Filed for a refund with RockAuto. (Just came in, full refund, looks like I don't even have to send the bad one back)
There were also a fair number of bent fins and the black paint was reeeeeeal crappy, like drunk redneck rattle can bad.
It was an "ADI/PRO" Brand, there is an option for "Other Manufacturer" on Rock Auto but I don't know if this would be any better. The Motorcraft one is $300+
There are a couple non Rock Auto vendors with Spectra Premium and KoolVue brands. Any opinions?
There were also a fair number of bent fins and the black paint was reeeeeeal crappy, like drunk redneck rattle can bad.
It was an "ADI/PRO" Brand, there is an option for "Other Manufacturer" on Rock Auto but I don't know if this would be any better. The Motorcraft one is $300+
There are a couple non Rock Auto vendors with Spectra Premium and KoolVue brands. Any opinions?
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It's been a few months. Everything still blows nice and cold. When I had it charged the shop said vent temps were at 34*. This summer working in LA will give it a test. Might need a new fan clutch (233k miles) but that's the only issue I have because sometimes in traffic it's not quite as cold.
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Update, 2 days in LA and the darn high pressure line blew off the evaporator.
Going to call the shop that charged the system and put that line on (Literally the only things I didn't do myself due to lack of supplies) tomorrow and try and get my money back. Then see what can be salvaged. I really don't want to replace the evaporator. Also I'm only in LA for the summer and most of my tools are 250mi north.
Would excessive charge pressure lead to this problem given the current heat wave?
Thanks!
Hot and Sweaty
Going to call the shop that charged the system and put that line on (Literally the only things I didn't do myself due to lack of supplies) tomorrow and try and get my money back. Then see what can be salvaged. I really don't want to replace the evaporator. Also I'm only in LA for the summer and most of my tools are 250mi north.
Would excessive charge pressure lead to this problem given the current heat wave?
Thanks!
Hot and Sweaty
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 450
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From: Merchantville, NJ 08109
Update, 2 days in LA and the darn high pressure line blew off the evaporator.
Going to call the shop that charged the system and put that line on (Literally the only things I didn't do myself due to lack of supplies) tomorrow and try and get my money back. Then see what can be salvaged. I really don't want to replace the evaporator. Also I'm only in LA for the summer and most of my tools are 250mi north.
Would excessive charge pressure lead to this problem given the current heat wave?
Thanks!
Hot and Sweaty
Going to call the shop that charged the system and put that line on (Literally the only things I didn't do myself due to lack of supplies) tomorrow and try and get my money back. Then see what can be salvaged. I really don't want to replace the evaporator. Also I'm only in LA for the summer and most of my tools are 250mi north.
Would excessive charge pressure lead to this problem given the current heat wave?
Thanks!
Hot and Sweaty
Scott
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That's kind of what I figured, I couldn't get it so I brought it to them, it had worked great until today. Also scared the bejeebus out of me because I overfilled the oil yesterday on the drive south and thought it chucked a rod. The oil will be fixed tomorrow.
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Kellen302, I'd like to start this exact project asap, but have hesitated on buying the '95 parts since I have a '93. Did you have issues with the evaporator core enclosure being a little different? I have the 5.0L. Thanks, JZ
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This liquid line blowing off is the first real issue and the shop that charged the system and made that connection won't cover anything until I pay for an inspection that will cost as much as a new hard line and evap core, probably the drier as well. So I will be putting in some more new parts with an adjustable orifice tube and then maybe charging myself if I can rent the tools.
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Got a chance to look at the connection that blew today. Took off my duct tape seals and was able to seat the fittings so at least it is sealed now. Can't tell if the spring lock snapped into place or not.
Here's my question, if I rent a vacuum pump and buy a can tap and the correct amount of refrigerant, do I still need a set of gauges to charge the system? It's empty now and I know I have to put a new drier on.
Are the HF gauges any good?
Here's my question, if I rent a vacuum pump and buy a can tap and the correct amount of refrigerant, do I still need a set of gauges to charge the system? It's empty now and I know I have to put a new drier on.
Are the HF gauges any good?
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If the compressor seized up internally, then it is absolutely necessary to replace the condenser, and flush out or replace the evaporator and all lines/hoses. When the compressor seizes, it grinds itself up inside and spews metal shavings throughout the system. You need to remove all shavings, or else it will chew up your new compressor and you'll be back at square one. Like I said, evaporators and lines can be flushed out, but condensers have so many small passages and nooks and crannies for shavings to get stuck, that they're basically impossible to flush out and you're much better off replacing with a new one.
I really found this thread helpful. I thought you all might enjoy this photo of my orifice tube. I had a tough time getting the quick fitting off but once I had filed my cheap Harbor Freight tool enough and squeezed it in with 2 pair of channel locks it came right off. Flushing out the old evaporator is taking quite a bit of effort. I flooded it with Acetone and then let it sit and blew it out with compressed air. I will do it again several times so I will try and get a good pic of what came out of it.
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